MD: Cam questions
06-23-2004, 02:46 AM
#1
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MD: Cam questions
I saw you are planning on installing a set of cams yourself???? How are you going to tune the car? I assume you cannot even start it without a reflash. ?
Where did you get the cams? (website?) and what are you going with? Is the car going to be streetable afterwards? Could you drive it for 2-3 hours from point a to b (long distance trips)
What do you expect for fuel milage? Any other problems? What is your expected RWHP? Flywheel hp?
I am looking at cams hardcore. N20 is still scaring me a little bit, and the more I think about it, the more what people are saying about power all the time makes since, even if it isnt as much as a 100 shot. However, I have to have a fully streetable car, as I make 2-3 hour trips quite often.
EDIT: here is a link to a website where a guy did a cam swap on a bolt on gt and only gained 22.1 RWHP and 2.4 RWTQ. That is terrbile. Whats the deal ?
http://www.modulardepot.com/?show=articlesdet&aid=25
Where did you get the cams? (website?) and what are you going with? Is the car going to be streetable afterwards? Could you drive it for 2-3 hours from point a to b (long distance trips)
What do you expect for fuel milage? Any other problems? What is your expected RWHP? Flywheel hp?
I am looking at cams hardcore. N20 is still scaring me a little bit, and the more I think about it, the more what people are saying about power all the time makes since, even if it isnt as much as a 100 shot. However, I have to have a fully streetable car, as I make 2-3 hour trips quite often.
EDIT: here is a link to a website where a guy did a cam swap on a bolt on gt and only gained 22.1 RWHP and 2.4 RWTQ. That is terrbile. Whats the deal ?
http://www.modulardepot.com/?show=articlesdet&aid=25
06-23-2004, 08:27 AM
#3
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RE: MD: Cam questions
I dont understand. 1000 bucks and its 25 HP max ?? Compared to a N20 install I can do myself, a 250 dollar tune (for both tunes). For under 1000 bucks, developing 100 horsepoewer? Thats a MINIMUM of 50 to the rear wheels, probably more.
400 horsepower compared to 325-335?
400 horsepower compared to 325-335?
06-23-2004, 12:45 PM
#4
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RE: MD: Cam questions
Ok here goes.
For starter's, Bill's car has 110k miles and its been through more abuse than a red-headed crack-baby stepchild in the ghetto. Second Bill also installed comp springs, which are considerably stiffer than the stock units - costing hp.
Another guy did the VT stage 1's and gained 33 rwhp (he did not change the springs). According to VT and alot of other sources (I asked this question before myself) the stock springs are fine for stage 1's, and alot of people have done stage 2's with no problems with the stock springs. The springs on our GT's are waaay better than old fox 5.0 springs.
Whats even more impressive about the guys dyno that yielded 33 rwhp (and all he had was bolt-ons like us, actually less than us - he didn't even have longtubes!) wasn't the fact that he gained 33 rwhp peak - to peak, but that he also gained over 50 rwhp at 6k rpm! Thats right, over 50 rwhp gained at 6k rpm. The stock cams were way down in power at that point, but the VT stage 1 cams held strong all the way past that.
So imagine a 50 shot of nitrous at 6k. Also, for drivability concerns, the cams lost virtually no power down low and they may have a noticable lope, but is still a good idle. Long distances won't be a concern, the car will drive just as well around town or the highway, but your gas mileage will most certainly suffer. I hear that after the camswap, before a tune, you will likely get stalling problems - but other than that you can drive it just fine. Bill drove his car to the tuner after he put his cams in, just stalled out at idle. But also I've seen alot more people say they had no stalling issues with the stage 1's and others say that they stalled at first with the stage 2's but after a few minutes it leveled out. So theirs a few ways it can go.
With the Anderson cam tool (like $25 bucks only), all you have to do to change the cams is remove the valve covers and the cam hold down bolts and slide out the old cam and in with the new. Thats it.
Here is the dyno graph for the camswap, the thread pertaining to it on another forum can be found here:
Let me know what you think. This is all I needed to convince me. The stage 1's not only work with the stock springs, but to my knowledge they are the highest hp producing cam available for stock heads. I will be getting a dyno tune afterwards, but I intend to drive the car 3 hours to get there.
For starter's, Bill's car has 110k miles and its been through more abuse than a red-headed crack-baby stepchild in the ghetto. Second Bill also installed comp springs, which are considerably stiffer than the stock units - costing hp.
Another guy did the VT stage 1's and gained 33 rwhp (he did not change the springs). According to VT and alot of other sources (I asked this question before myself) the stock springs are fine for stage 1's, and alot of people have done stage 2's with no problems with the stock springs. The springs on our GT's are waaay better than old fox 5.0 springs.
Whats even more impressive about the guys dyno that yielded 33 rwhp (and all he had was bolt-ons like us, actually less than us - he didn't even have longtubes!) wasn't the fact that he gained 33 rwhp peak - to peak, but that he also gained over 50 rwhp at 6k rpm! Thats right, over 50 rwhp gained at 6k rpm. The stock cams were way down in power at that point, but the VT stage 1 cams held strong all the way past that.
So imagine a 50 shot of nitrous at 6k. Also, for drivability concerns, the cams lost virtually no power down low and they may have a noticable lope, but is still a good idle. Long distances won't be a concern, the car will drive just as well around town or the highway, but your gas mileage will most certainly suffer. I hear that after the camswap, before a tune, you will likely get stalling problems - but other than that you can drive it just fine. Bill drove his car to the tuner after he put his cams in, just stalled out at idle. But also I've seen alot more people say they had no stalling issues with the stage 1's and others say that they stalled at first with the stage 2's but after a few minutes it leveled out. So theirs a few ways it can go.
With the Anderson cam tool (like $25 bucks only), all you have to do to change the cams is remove the valve covers and the cam hold down bolts and slide out the old cam and in with the new. Thats it.
Here is the dyno graph for the camswap, the thread pertaining to it on another forum can be found here:
Let me know what you think. This is all I needed to convince me. The stage 1's not only work with the stock springs, but to my knowledge they are the highest hp producing cam available for stock heads. I will be getting a dyno tune afterwards, but I intend to drive the car 3 hours to get there.
06-23-2004, 04:37 PM
#5
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RE: MD: Cam questions
ORIGINAL: mdvaldosta
Ok here goes.
For starter's, Bill's car has 110k miles and its been through more abuse than a red-headed crack-baby stepchild in the ghetto. Second Bill also installed comp springs, which are considerably stiffer than the stock units - costing hp.
Another guy did the VT stage 1's and gained 33 rwhp (he did not change the springs). According to VT and alot of other sources (I asked this question before myself) the stock springs are fine for stage 1's, and alot of people have done stage 2's with no problems with the stock springs. The springs on our GT's are waaay better than old fox 5.0 springs.
Whats even more impressive about the guys dyno that yielded 33 rwhp (and all he had was bolt-ons like us, actually less than us - he didn't even have longtubes!) wasn't the fact that he gained 33 rwhp peak - to peak, but that he also gained over 50 rwhp at 6k rpm! Thats right, over 50 rwhp gained at 6k rpm. The stock cams were way down in power at that point, but the VT stage 1 cams held strong all the way past that.
So imagine a 50 shot of nitrous at 6k. Also, for drivability concerns, the cams lost virtually no power down low and they may have a noticable lope, but is still a good idle. Long distances won't be a concern, the car will drive just as well around town or the highway, but your gas mileage will most certainly suffer. I hear that after the camswap, before a tune, you will likely get stalling problems - but other than that you can drive it just fine. Bill drove his car to the tuner after he put his cams in, just stalled out at idle. But also I've seen alot more people say they had no stalling issues with the stage 1's and others say that they stalled at first with the stage 2's but after a few minutes it leveled out. So theirs a few ways it can go.
With the Anderson cam tool (like $25 bucks only), all you have to do to change the cams is remove the valve covers and the cam hold down bolts and slide out the old cam and in with the new. Thats it.
Here is the dyno graph for the camswap, the thread pertaining to it on another forum can be found here:
Let me know what you think. This is all I needed to convince me. The stage 1's not only work with the stock springs, but to my knowledge they are the highest hp producing cam available for stock heads. I will be getting a dyno tune afterwards, but I intend to drive the car 3 hours to get there.
Ok here goes.
For starter's, Bill's car has 110k miles and its been through more abuse than a red-headed crack-baby stepchild in the ghetto. Second Bill also installed comp springs, which are considerably stiffer than the stock units - costing hp.
Another guy did the VT stage 1's and gained 33 rwhp (he did not change the springs). According to VT and alot of other sources (I asked this question before myself) the stock springs are fine for stage 1's, and alot of people have done stage 2's with no problems with the stock springs. The springs on our GT's are waaay better than old fox 5.0 springs.
Whats even more impressive about the guys dyno that yielded 33 rwhp (and all he had was bolt-ons like us, actually less than us - he didn't even have longtubes!) wasn't the fact that he gained 33 rwhp peak - to peak, but that he also gained over 50 rwhp at 6k rpm! Thats right, over 50 rwhp gained at 6k rpm. The stock cams were way down in power at that point, but the VT stage 1 cams held strong all the way past that.
So imagine a 50 shot of nitrous at 6k. Also, for drivability concerns, the cams lost virtually no power down low and they may have a noticable lope, but is still a good idle. Long distances won't be a concern, the car will drive just as well around town or the highway, but your gas mileage will most certainly suffer. I hear that after the camswap, before a tune, you will likely get stalling problems - but other than that you can drive it just fine. Bill drove his car to the tuner after he put his cams in, just stalled out at idle. But also I've seen alot more people say they had no stalling issues with the stage 1's and others say that they stalled at first with the stage 2's but after a few minutes it leveled out. So theirs a few ways it can go.
With the Anderson cam tool (like $25 bucks only), all you have to do to change the cams is remove the valve covers and the cam hold down bolts and slide out the old cam and in with the new. Thats it.
Here is the dyno graph for the camswap, the thread pertaining to it on another forum can be found here:
Let me know what you think. This is all I needed to convince me. The stage 1's not only work with the stock springs, but to my knowledge they are the highest hp producing cam available for stock heads. I will be getting a dyno tune afterwards, but I intend to drive the car 3 hours to get there.
You have a dyno as the car is exactly now right? I will be very interested in your dyno. If you show gains like the 33 RWHP that this guy is showing I am going to be leaning hard toward cams.
Man I wish you lived somewhere close to me. I would like to help you/see you do the swap, to see how hard it is.
06-23-2004, 05:19 PM
#6
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RE: MD: Cam questions
No I have no dyno as of right now, there are none anywhere close (within an hour or two) to me that I can find. The only dyno I'm gonna have is when I get the tune after the cams.
I'll take pics of the cam install, as I want people to see how easy it is so I can sell my PI cams to someone
I'll take pics of the cam install, as I want people to see how easy it is so I can sell my PI cams to someone
06-24-2004, 01:50 AM
#10
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RE: MD: Cam questions
MD, great info, love to hear how it goes, also love to hear the sound of a cammed 4.6! However I do object to the reference of red-headed crack baby stepchild in the ghetto. In the future please use amber haired, substance abuse challenged, urban alternative family, thanks.