02 sensor
knowing the sensor is out i might be loosing power is there anything else that could be causing me to not have all the power i should cus im noticing lack in pull when i give gas and go to the floor with it. I put it down to the floor in 3 gear going about 35 or 40 and it didnt do anything as far as acceleration goes or do i just need to be at higher rpm for it get going.
O2 sensor (not zero-two) = Oxygen sensor. There's four in your exhaust (two on each side), one before the first catalytic converter, and one right after the first catalytic converter (between the first and second), again on each bank.
The ECU uses it to determine the A/F ratio, whether to add or subtract fuel, it uses the O2 sensors to ensure your cayaltyic converters are working, and they also give the ECU in general a good idea of how the engine is running. If the O2s are sending a bad singnal the ECU will very likely go into limp mode, retarding timing, and making the A/F ratio much more rich... you end up getting HORRIBLE gas mileage, and do not have much power.
The ECU uses it to determine the A/F ratio, whether to add or subtract fuel, it uses the O2 sensors to ensure your cayaltyic converters are working, and they also give the ECU in general a good idea of how the engine is running. If the O2s are sending a bad singnal the ECU will very likely go into limp mode, retarding timing, and making the A/F ratio much more rich... you end up getting HORRIBLE gas mileage, and do not have much power.
Replacing the sensor will probably fix the problems you're having, wills98cobra... assuming that's what the ECU says is wrong.
First, be sure it's still connected well, if it is, unscrew the sensor and be sure it's in tact... if it's broken just get a new one. If the wiring for it somehow got damaged, replace it... simple stuff.
First, be sure it's still connected well, if it is, unscrew the sensor and be sure it's in tact... if it's broken just get a new one. If the wiring for it somehow got damaged, replace it... simple stuff.
Sure thing... The sensors will be easy to find... one's on the exhaust manifold, and the other is after the first catalytic converter as I said... they're the only thing connected to the exhaust with a wire going to it.
my check engine light is always on, and it happened ever since i put my exhaust on. Slp LM 1, o/r x pipe, and headers. People have told me the check engine light is on because the new exhaust is setting off one of the 02 sensors.. is this true? how could i fix it? anyone?
An O/R pipe will most definitely do that! The computer thinks that the first catalytic converter is malfunctioning (which, in your case, it certainly is, seeing as you don't even have one
)
You have two options on the fix, MIL eliminators, or a hand-held tuner.
MIL eliminators plug in line between the rear O2 sensors and ECU, very simple to install. The cost is not that high... Cheap, effective. The problem with them is that they tend to fail, and on occasion, not work at all. If you go this route, you'll need two of them.
Your other choice is a hand-held tuner. The hand-held can turn off the rear O2 sensors entirely, fixing the problem PERMANENTLY... the light will never come back on for those rear O2 sensors as long as you have the tune from the hand-held tuner on there. The hand-held tuner can also adjust for rear gear ratio changes, adjust your timing, and other VERY helpful things (read + clear check engine light codes etc). Down-side to the tuner? The cost, $400.
)You have two options on the fix, MIL eliminators, or a hand-held tuner.
MIL eliminators plug in line between the rear O2 sensors and ECU, very simple to install. The cost is not that high... Cheap, effective. The problem with them is that they tend to fail, and on occasion, not work at all. If you go this route, you'll need two of them.
Your other choice is a hand-held tuner. The hand-held can turn off the rear O2 sensors entirely, fixing the problem PERMANENTLY... the light will never come back on for those rear O2 sensors as long as you have the tune from the hand-held tuner on there. The hand-held tuner can also adjust for rear gear ratio changes, adjust your timing, and other VERY helpful things (read + clear check engine light codes etc). Down-side to the tuner? The cost, $400.


