New Block or Not?
09-12-2006, 11:49 PM
#32
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location:
Posts: 2,284
RE: New Block or Not?
the block is brand new. This is block and all internals only.
Also is it's got the SVT Cobra crank, won't I need to change my flywheel to a cobra flywheel? It's the original GT oem flywheel. I don't want to have to change the clutch, since I just bought it. It's a spec stage II 10.5" clutch.
Also is it's got the SVT Cobra crank, won't I need to change my flywheel to a cobra flywheel? It's the original GT oem flywheel. I don't want to have to change the clutch, since I just bought it. It's a spec stage II 10.5" clutch.
09-12-2006, 11:55 PM
#34
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location:
Posts: 2,284
RE: New Block or Not?
I'm re-using all the top end stuff. Just changing the block out and all bottom end stuff. I'm going to have a local shop do it. I'm hoping the guy will let me do the work on it at his shop though, like the top end removal stuff. Let him do the cams and then I'll put all the top end stuff back on and then drop the motor back in. I think he'll be cool with it, He'll still get some labor, but I'll learn a whole lot, which is what I want to do.
09-13-2006, 12:00 AM
#35
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: United States
Posts: 12,575
RE: New Block or Not?
I think you need to call around to some of the engine building shops. I have been short block shopping, and the problem seems to be there is a differnce between a new shortblock and just buying a block and stuffing the forged internals into it.
The block and internals do only run about 2200, but all the aftermarket "shortblocks" are in the 2600 to 3500 range, most being over 3K. It seems that they add alot of other stuff to the shortblock before it goes out the door.
I would not recommend going with just a "stage 2" cam at this point. Several of the performance shops will custom grind a cam to your spec and setup, making more power both peak and under the curve.
Don't worry about the heads/intake. MPH has a non intercooled V2SQ making 550~ to the tire with stock heads/intake. They have a novi 2000 with cooler making 60x with the stock heads/intake too. Both of these cars are running custom ground MPH blower cams.
BTW, there is alot more to tearing apart (and putting together) the engine after getting the intake stuff off. Hell, at that point your only really running into the hard stuff. Make sure you at least have detailed instructions, if not someone to help that has done it before.
The block and internals do only run about 2200, but all the aftermarket "shortblocks" are in the 2600 to 3500 range, most being over 3K. It seems that they add alot of other stuff to the shortblock before it goes out the door.
I would not recommend going with just a "stage 2" cam at this point. Several of the performance shops will custom grind a cam to your spec and setup, making more power both peak and under the curve.
Don't worry about the heads/intake. MPH has a non intercooled V2SQ making 550~ to the tire with stock heads/intake. They have a novi 2000 with cooler making 60x with the stock heads/intake too. Both of these cars are running custom ground MPH blower cams.
BTW, there is alot more to tearing apart (and putting together) the engine after getting the intake stuff off. Hell, at that point your only really running into the hard stuff. Make sure you at least have detailed instructions, if not someone to help that has done it before.
09-13-2006, 12:26 AM
#36
Mustang Nazi
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Texas, baby
Posts: 13,444
RE: New Block or Not?
I guess you need to decide whether you're gonna do a basic rebuild or a custom build. For the price of a new block, "I" would do a new block. Once you figure in costs of machine work on a used block, the cost of a brand spankin' new block sure looks appealing. Just my .02
09-13-2006, 03:59 AM
#37
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location:
Posts: 2,111
RE: New Block or Not?
ORIGINAL: 2000GT4.6
I think you need to call around to some of the engine building shops. I have been short block shopping, and the problem seems to be there is a differnce between a new shortblock and just buying a block and stuffing the forged internals into it.
The block and internals do only run about 2200, but all the aftermarket "shortblocks" are in the 2600 to 3500 range, most being over 3K. It seems that they add alot of other stuff to the shortblock before it goes out the door.
I would not recommend going with just a "stage 2" cam at this point. Several of the performance shops will custom grind a cam to your spec and setup, making more power both peak and under the curve.
Don't worry about the heads/intake. MPH has a non intercooled V2SQ making 550~ to the tire with stock heads/intake. They have a novi 2000 with cooler making 60x with the stock heads/intake too. Both of these cars are running custom ground MPH blower cams.
BTW, there is alot more to tearing apart (and putting together) the engine after getting the intake stuff off. Hell, at that point your only really running into the hard stuff. Make sure you at least have detailed instructions, if not someone to help that has done it before.
I think you need to call around to some of the engine building shops. I have been short block shopping, and the problem seems to be there is a differnce between a new shortblock and just buying a block and stuffing the forged internals into it.
The block and internals do only run about 2200, but all the aftermarket "shortblocks" are in the 2600 to 3500 range, most being over 3K. It seems that they add alot of other stuff to the shortblock before it goes out the door.
I would not recommend going with just a "stage 2" cam at this point. Several of the performance shops will custom grind a cam to your spec and setup, making more power both peak and under the curve.
Don't worry about the heads/intake. MPH has a non intercooled V2SQ making 550~ to the tire with stock heads/intake. They have a novi 2000 with cooler making 60x with the stock heads/intake too. Both of these cars are running custom ground MPH blower cams.
BTW, there is alot more to tearing apart (and putting together) the engine after getting the intake stuff off. Hell, at that point your only really running into the hard stuff. Make sure you at least have detailed instructions, if not someone to help that has done it before.
09-13-2006, 09:41 AM
#38
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location:
Posts: 2,284
RE: New Block or Not?
Right, I don't need any more than a stage 2 blower cam. Now when you posted, you entered stage 2 cam, it's the stage 2 "blower" cam, not just the stage 2. I've even talked with the VT guys and they agree, the stage 3 isn't right for my application, so that tells me the guys there aren't just trying to sell stuff to people if they don't really need it.
And I'm already at the point where I don't want a custom grind this and hone this out and blah blah blah. I want the mother ****er fixed. I'm not looking to make it a drag car, but on the ohter hand I figure it's best to built up the bottom end to handle the power so I have less a chance of it going again. And yes even with the best built motor in ther car, it could go kaboom or the same thing happen again. It's life unfortunately.
And I'm already at the point where I don't want a custom grind this and hone this out and blah blah blah. I want the mother ****er fixed. I'm not looking to make it a drag car, but on the ohter hand I figure it's best to built up the bottom end to handle the power so I have less a chance of it going again. And yes even with the best built motor in ther car, it could go kaboom or the same thing happen again. It's life unfortunately.
09-13-2006, 02:18 PM
#39
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location:
Posts: 2,284
RE: New Block or Not?
Ok, I think I have it. I just got off the phone with Scott from Vt Engines. The car "might" possibly be going to Lansing, MI to get redone. He said he could do it for my $5,000 budget. That includes the GT Sportsman block that it's on the site with all forged goodies, ARP studs and bolts, Stage II BLower Cams, and 2V Comp Springs and install.
It's only about 5 hours and 45 minutes for me, which is nothing I used to go to the LAke of The Ozarks in Mo all the time, so it's just a little more than that.
I'd driver her home when it's done. HE could have it done by end of October.
We'll see. I'll keep you all updated.
It's only about 5 hours and 45 minutes for me, which is nothing I used to go to the LAke of The Ozarks in Mo all the time, so it's just a little more than that.
I'd driver her home when it's done. HE could have it done by end of October.
We'll see. I'll keep you all updated.
09-13-2006, 02:50 PM
#40
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 280
RE: New Block or Not?
I believe the Windsor block will accomodate the Cobra crank without modification, but you'd have to check with your engine builder. As far as doing stuff yourself, well, I hope you have a full shop in your garage... no shop I know of (with the exception of the 'craft shop' on most Army posts) is going to let you do your own work.
As far as shortblocks being so much more than block + internals, yeah, not surprising. They include labor to assemble the shortblock at the VERY least, not to mention you have some blueprinting operations performed by the major engine shops (SHM, VT, DSS, etc). The fly-by-night speed shop crowd just grabs a block, adds internals, and there you go, but the major players will take the time to magnaflux your block (ensuring no cracks), probably deck your block (to give you a flat surface to bolt your heads to), as well as honing your cylinder walls, and checking main journals for proper sizing.
Just my $.02
As far as shortblocks being so much more than block + internals, yeah, not surprising. They include labor to assemble the shortblock at the VERY least, not to mention you have some blueprinting operations performed by the major engine shops (SHM, VT, DSS, etc). The fly-by-night speed shop crowd just grabs a block, adds internals, and there you go, but the major players will take the time to magnaflux your block (ensuring no cracks), probably deck your block (to give you a flat surface to bolt your heads to), as well as honing your cylinder walls, and checking main journals for proper sizing.
Just my $.02