1BAD3V

Hmmmm, maybe if you would have read everything I was saying to "Emann0007", you would have read that I mis calculated and figured with those mods I could have about 260-265rwhp. And there have been plenty of guys with automatics on here to run 13.5-13.6 with not even all of these mods and under 250rwhp. Stock automatic GT's put down about 225rwhp, the manuals put down about 10-15 more, which is about 240-245. And your right a catback does put down next to nothing, thats why I added the catback with the midpipe. Oh and maybe you should have quoted somebody else besides me about the racing a S/C GT, I never once said I could beat one, so dont go and bust my ***** about that, I said that with all these bolt ons I believe I could be runnin 13.2 or so, which is only about .5-.8 seconds behind a S/C GT with no other mods. And if I add LT's to my list, I'm pretty sure LT's will give about 12-15rwhp, which would put me over my 275rwhp mark, without cams and headwork.

sweet2kstang

as far as power goes i have to see if i can find the dyno sheet. driver or not 6psi isnt all that much, and if i do lose to any it is ant the end of the track. driving skills, luck, maybe i got lucky with a car that just is strong, but all that count is who is first through the traps! on the street its the same way, if that car gets out of it because it isnt in front of me, its a win. yes the lowering has mo weight transfer but oh well i guess. you want a video here is one at tulsa the first night i had slicks. 13.36 is what the clock says and that isnt my fastest time. i am had trans problems and havent been able to get a good pass because of the sthift fork.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQu7242BMzo

sweet2kstang

and as far as 2v power goes, a fully bolt on cars has put down a hair over 300 hp. i will have to find it but i have the 5.0 mustang issue of a test of bolt on cars and people were managing 305-315 on nothing more than bolt ons and tune of course.

2000GT4.6

You are smoking loads and loads of crack.

Nor MM&FF or 5.0 is going to say this, and if they do its a feature car. They publish what the owner says, but its doesn't make it fact. There have been more than a few owners that had articles done in these mags over the years that have done more than a little inflation. If you look at any of the "mods for 2v mods" or any other article with acutal dyno tuning they will backup what we are saying.

Your talking to a guy (code3) that has a fully built N/A 4.6L. Your telling me that heads/cams and a forged shortblock are only worth 40 WHP over a boltons car? I don't think so. With 10K invested in the engine code is making 34x WHP.

I don't doubt with a killer 60' you can cut low 13s with your mods, but your not making anywhere near 280 WHP on a accurate dynojet 248c. This isn't to say you don't have a dyno sheet saying this, but I can make your dyno say your making 500 WHP with a few clicks of a mouse...

As stated, my car made 26x WHP with all the boltons, and 28x with boltons + cams. No way a non cammed car is going to make anywhere close to that, let alone 300 WHP.

The average stock 99-04 GT puts down between 225 WHP and 230 WHP with a STICK. An automatic car will be LUCKY to see 215-220 WHP.

You cannot make 265 WHP on a accurate 248c dynojet with just the boltons you listed, X10 with an automatic. once again, as stated, with every possible bolton other than a electric water pump I made 26x whp (thru a 5 speed) . I can see 27x (low 70s) with just boltons and a killer tune if the car started off as a 230 WHP car, but only thru a stick.

I was not referencing you to the supercharged GT, only stating that they would put football fields on you in a race. .8 of a second is ALOT when you stop to think about it. Think about a car flying by you at 100+ MPH. Now imagine counting "one one thousand" and how far away they would be from the point you are standing.

People need to realise that if you are seeing high numbers thru a dyno, higher than everyone elses, its not because your car is better or your shop is better at tuning. Its simply because the dyno is not accurate. Now, this does not mean it is not repeatble, and thats all that really matters. So long as it stays consitant from run to run, you have what you really need, which is a tool to measure your improvements to the car.

However, just be aware that an ACCURATE dynojet will see about 225-230 WHP from a stock stick PI car, about 265 with all the boltons, and around 280-290 with all of them and a set of cams. With an automatic your gonna be behind by somewhere from 10 to 15 WHP, with it getting worse the more power you make.

Edit, for futher proof, see:

https://mustangforums.com/m_1305301/...tm.htm#1306612

sweet2kstang

i know exactly what yoy are saying and when i saw the article i pulle the bull**** cord out also. 300+ on stock bottome end seems to be a little extreme to claim but everything was there. weather or not its fake or real; your guess is as good as mine. i am not new to cars and i am not trying to argue and make everyone see things my way. this is what is saw, i mentioned it, and if it isnt accurate then ok. as far as my numbers go those numbers are a numbers i got. i dont trust the dyno here its never seemed to be accurate, but thats the only one around till i get the shop opened and get mine installed. i bought the car used and i know what i have done and thats it. as far as the two previous owner, i really dont know what all they did.(head work, cams,etc) i know that the car is stronger than i thought is should be but thats my opinion.i ran across one of the old owners and he said that he did work on it but i ignored him, i didnt plan on keeping the car .

djb1187

IMO a forged block too! unless you got a nice suspension to compensate for not turning the boost up

2000GT4.6

You will definatly know it if you have a set of cams etc, and nobody (with a brain anyway) does headwork without doing cams.

I can tell you with 99 percent accuracy your car will make somewhere around 245 to 250 WHP on a accurate dynojet 248c. The LTs are the single biggest gain so far as boltons are installed, you could expect somewhere in the 15 WHP range with a set of LTs (if all the other boltons are present).

It is simply completely impossible to make 300 WHP on a boltons only car, LTs or not, stick or not. The average boltons/cammed guy sees around 280-290 WHP, and I have seen one claim of 298, but it seemed a little bogus.

All a dyno shop has to do is either intentionally inflate numbers to make themselves look good, or simply have a dyno that is not setup correctly, and it will not give you an accurate number.

This is why baselines are SO important. If I could do it over, I would definatly have baselined my car. That way, you get the only imporant number from your dyno shop, the WHP number you have improved.

Of course, I have also seen dyno shops set the dyno low when you come in, and set it high when you leave, to make it look like they really did something great, but those are really shady shops, and seem to be far and few between.