Engine keeps stalling!
It started when I replaced my Accufab upper plenum and 75mm TB, MAC straight shot with 85mm MAF. Too A C&L upper plenum, power house 75mm TB, C&L intake with 85mm MAF. Also during this change I installed NGK TR55 spark plugs gapped at 0.052"
When I start my car no matter if its cold or warmed up, I have to give it a little bit of gas other wise it will hit 750rpm and then just drop and stall. It also does this when I am driving slowly lets say with my foot on the clutch and turning into a parking lot I have to give it extra gas other wise it stalls. It also is prone to stalling when I apply the brakes coming to a stop. I am constantly rolling over my foot to give it extra gas before I come to a stop to prevent it from stalling! How annoying. I checked my TPS and it reads fine at idle. But the haynes manual says it should be receiving 5volts of power, this isnt the idle Im talking about. This is just the sender or something I cant remember of the top of my head. But Its supposed to be getting 5volts but I am only reading 4.08volts. I dont know what would be causing the voltage reading to be low. I am curious if that is causing my problem....
I need help! Oh and its not my Idle Air Control Valve. I replaced that a few thousand miles ago, there is no restriction in the line either... Any advice?
When I start my car no matter if its cold or warmed up, I have to give it a little bit of gas other wise it will hit 750rpm and then just drop and stall. It also does this when I am driving slowly lets say with my foot on the clutch and turning into a parking lot I have to give it extra gas other wise it stalls. It also is prone to stalling when I apply the brakes coming to a stop. I am constantly rolling over my foot to give it extra gas before I come to a stop to prevent it from stalling! How annoying. I checked my TPS and it reads fine at idle. But the haynes manual says it should be receiving 5volts of power, this isnt the idle Im talking about. This is just the sender or something I cant remember of the top of my head. But Its supposed to be getting 5volts but I am only reading 4.08volts. I dont know what would be causing the voltage reading to be low. I am curious if that is causing my problem....
I need help! Oh and its not my Idle Air Control Valve. I replaced that a few thousand miles ago, there is no restriction in the line either... Any advice?
might be a fuel issue. Have you messed with the SCT programmer lately? Maybe reset the tune you have again(reinstall) If you plug in the SCT does it show any error codes? Check that then write the codes down and find out what they are, IF you have any.
I have always had an 85mm MAF, I know its big. But stock is 80mm so its not too much bigger. But I had it with my old set up and it was fine. I dont have a check engine light on. That would be the only thing to throw a code but... You have a good idea. I have three tunes, 87,89, and 93 octane tunes. I will set it to 89 octane and see how it performs. Also thats a good idea about the MAF. I heard that cleaning the wire with rubbing alcohol will be fine..
yeah just from experience. When I was really new to this I thought what I saw 85mm maf will take in more air and gain you like 20 rwhp...well ya ok noooo haha. I noticed right away that I would not be able to drive my car or rev it with out it stumbling or stalling because it was to large so I switched back and it was fine. Obviously your car is tuned so you should be better off but yes def check it out and let me know
Okay, I think your overlooking the obvious here. You said you replaced the throttle body.On the TB is the idle set screw/stop. This isnt set from factory so your probably just need to back it out a little. Sounds like its trying to stall then its over compensating, then stalling. Just back the screw out until it idles right. This should work.Might need a helper to keep it running while you try to adjust it. Also make sure it is warmed up or it will Idle high when it is warm.
ORIGINAL: 99mustanggt
Okay, I think your overlooking the obvious here. You said you replaced the throttle body.On the TB is the idle set screw/stop. This isnt set from factory so your probably just need to back it out a little. Sounds like its trying to stall then its over compensating, then stalling. Just back the screw out until it idles right. This should work.Might need a helper to keep it running while you try to adjust it. Also make sure it is warmed up or it will Idle high when it is warm.
Okay, I think your overlooking the obvious here. You said you replaced the throttle body.On the TB is the idle set screw/stop. This isnt set from factory so your probably just need to back it out a little. Sounds like its trying to stall then its over compensating, then stalling. Just back the screw out until it idles right. This should work.Might need a helper to keep it running while you try to adjust it. Also make sure it is warmed up or it will Idle high when it is warm.
Oh damnit... I just remembered. When I got my car dyno tuned my idle was hanging badly, it had been for like a year. Thats why I changed my upper end. But the tuner set my idle to 600rpm idle. Even though it doesnt idle there, I think thats whats f*cking it up... Damnit I got to spend another $100 to get it dyno tuned... Argh![:@] Thanks for your guys help. I think thats what it is.. But I will try reseting it to 89 octane and cleaning the MAF... and I will let you know it that works...


