96GT226410

During Febuary/March, I'm going to be looking for a 4.6 SOHC to build. I'm only looking for 300-350 RWHP. I was wondering if the stock bottom end will hold up or should I spend more money for a rotating assembly. I'm not looking for crazy power, I just want a fun daily driver car that will keep up with those damn GM's . And if possible, I'd like to keep it at daily driveable as possible. I don't really want to go F/I. I'm just getting started on the plans for this so I'm not sure of much right now except: P&P PI heads, cams and matching valves and springs, full bolt on's, BBK LT's, O/R H, Flowmaster cat back, 3:73, maybe an ignition system, and a tune. How does that sound? I have parts for a full HD forged syncronizer and seal rebuild kit for my T45. And when I get it all put in, I'm going to be looking for a better suspension setup...

contentsunderpressur

You should have no problems with the stock bottom end holding up. I've run mine hard and haven't had any problems. No f/i, you'll need a lot of bolt ons to get the power you want.

ZW99GT

You got it partner. That mod list will have you in the 300's easily. No need to worry about your internals until you are seeing 400's. The most important thing you will have to do is get rid of those NPI components. that includes the intake manifold.

96GT226410

I may be looking for a NPI shortblock just because they're so much cheaper. I can pick that up for $300. But I would definetly use PI intake. Any reccomended cams? VT stage 1 or 2? Comp cams? I'm looking for reliability and driveability.

ZW99GT

Id say stage 2 just b/c of the exhaust note. You will be building power a little higher with the stage 2's, but you wont be able to spin any higher(a.k.a over stock redline) without forging. You will be good gains from stage 1 or 2.

jacrockett

Your stock short block is just fine for the power level you're looking for.

FI with just 8# boost is the easiest way to get there, but if you want to stay n/a, you'll nead heads/cams for sure.

BTW - i have a stock 04GT intake for sale, and ported 2v head assemblies with StageIII Crower cams, and the (very expensive) valve springs to support the .500 lift.

[IMG]local://upfiles/12498/0BD8251872B4471E9747A1F9346BDAD6.jpg[/IMG]

96GT226410

So, p&p PI heads with VT st. 2 cams it is then. How are Patriot heads? Do they come with good cams? Prices?

96GT226410

Does any other company that makes aftermarket heads besides Patriot? They're a little more than I want to spend. Which would give me more power: Stage II Patriot heads, or P&P PI heads with VT Stage II cams?

2000GT4.6

The patriot heads are the cheapest on the market.

With the stock rotating asembly I would aim for 300-310 WHP and be pleased if you made more with the mods listed, assuming you get a aftermarket head. I have not seen many people going with just a P&P job, but the aftermarket companys replace the valves with larger ones etc etc to increase flow.

Are you scared of nitrous? If it was me, I would skip the heads. Its alot of money, and a good running PI car with all the listed mods, stock heads, and some VT cams should make somewhere in the 280-290 range. You have to ask yourself if its worth another 1300-1500 bucks to go from 285~ to 305~

96GT226410

Anyone know a place to get a good deal on the heads? I think I'm going to look for a used set of Patriot heads. If I can't find them, I'll P&P PI heads and use a set of cams and new valves. I have a buddy who can P&P them for a good price.