de-face a collectors?
#1
de-face a collectors?
2001 bullitt to be de-bullittized.... this is the idea...
turn into a drag car, still daily driveable but quite a bit of power
mods would be
Maximum Motorsports SFC
Maximum Motorsports Panhard Bar
Maximum motorsports lower rear control arm
stock tokico springs/shocks
Engine-N/A 330 RWHP[/b]
324" Big Bore Stroker Shortblocks {3.750" stroke x 3.700" bore. Alum. block only}:
Cobra Forged (CP pistons) $4995*
262ah cams, ported heads, msd ingition w/ ngk plugs
injectors/fuel pump
bassani x pipe w/ cats[/b]
90MM MAF
transmission/drive line
TKO 500 OR 600
KING COBRA CLUTCH
aluminum flywheel
ALUMINUM DRIVE SHAFT+SAFTEY LOOP
31 SPLINE AXLES
eaton posi trac
18x10.5 rear with 315's and 18x9 front 275
if anyone can think of anything else let me know... im open to ideas... i just started with gears and sub frames budget is around 14k over next few months.. if i make it track car then it goes a much different route focusing on suspension over power
turn into a drag car, still daily driveable but quite a bit of power
mods would be
Maximum Motorsports SFC
Maximum Motorsports Panhard Bar
Maximum motorsports lower rear control arm
stock tokico springs/shocks
Engine-N/A 330 RWHP[/b]
324" Big Bore Stroker Shortblocks {3.750" stroke x 3.700" bore. Alum. block only}:
Cobra Forged (CP pistons) $4995*
262ah cams, ported heads, msd ingition w/ ngk plugs
injectors/fuel pump
bassani x pipe w/ cats[/b]
90MM MAF
transmission/drive line
TKO 500 OR 600
KING COBRA CLUTCH
aluminum flywheel
ALUMINUM DRIVE SHAFT+SAFTEY LOOP
31 SPLINE AXLES
eaton posi trac
18x10.5 rear with 315's and 18x9 front 275
if anyone can think of anything else let me know... im open to ideas... i just started with gears and sub frames budget is around 14k over next few months.. if i make it track car then it goes a much different route focusing on suspension over power
#2
RE: de-face a collectors?
since you own a low number bullit i would personally not turn it into a drag car, but hey it's your car do what you want. if you want to go for a drag-strip only car, why not get a v-6 or a regular gt, and then you could build it the way you wanted?(ie built race motor, spool, mini tub, etc) but that's just me.
#5
RE: de-face a collectors?
IMO the bullitts are NEVER gonna be worth any signficant amount of money. Everyone talks so much about a "collectors car" but find me anything but the super super rare 60's cars (like the BB mach 1s etc) that are worth more than 20K or so...
Whats 20 grand?? Nothing! You can't even buy a brand new mustang for that (well, maybe a V6). The value of the car goes up, but so does inflation, and in the end you would be lucky to just break even on the inital cost, not to mention that all of the 60's cars that really go for alot of money almost always have more invested in them (resto) than they go for. Plain and simple, cars are not investments, you WILL loose money on all but the super super rare occasssions.
That being the case, unless you plan on keeping it forever it doesn't matter... and if you do plan on keeping it forever make it into what you want it to be.
And why call it a "drag only" car. Frankly, if you want a drag only car you are starting with the wrong mustang (think foxbody LX notch FTW). On the other hand, if you want a fun weekend car to go out and play AND get on the track, your starting from a good point.
Also, WHY the n/a setup. I know there are some fast N/A cars out there, but its alot cheaper/easier to make lots of power FI, and you WILL make more power (and faster times assumming everything else is equal) in the end. Nobody can argueagainst the factthat a FI car is more streetable and faster than a n/a car (at least a modular setup) when the same amount of money is applied.
One last thing, the TKO is not a nessicity until you break your current transmission. I would not do any sort of trans swap until I broke what is already under the car .
Whats 20 grand?? Nothing! You can't even buy a brand new mustang for that (well, maybe a V6). The value of the car goes up, but so does inflation, and in the end you would be lucky to just break even on the inital cost, not to mention that all of the 60's cars that really go for alot of money almost always have more invested in them (resto) than they go for. Plain and simple, cars are not investments, you WILL loose money on all but the super super rare occasssions.
That being the case, unless you plan on keeping it forever it doesn't matter... and if you do plan on keeping it forever make it into what you want it to be.
And why call it a "drag only" car. Frankly, if you want a drag only car you are starting with the wrong mustang (think foxbody LX notch FTW). On the other hand, if you want a fun weekend car to go out and play AND get on the track, your starting from a good point.
Also, WHY the n/a setup. I know there are some fast N/A cars out there, but its alot cheaper/easier to make lots of power FI, and you WILL make more power (and faster times assumming everything else is equal) in the end. Nobody can argueagainst the factthat a FI car is more streetable and faster than a n/a car (at least a modular setup) when the same amount of money is applied.
One last thing, the TKO is not a nessicity until you break your current transmission. I would not do any sort of trans swap until I broke what is already under the car .
#6
RE: de-face a collectors?
ORIGINAL: 2000GT4.6
IMO the bullitts are NEVER gonna be worth any signficant amount of money. Everyone talks so much about a "collectors car" but find me anything but the super super rare 60's cars (like the BB mach 1s etc) that are worth more than 20K or so...
Whats 20 grand?? Nothing! You can't even buy a brand new mustang for that (well, maybe a V6). The value of the car goes up, but so does inflation, and in the end you would be lucky to just break even on the inital cost, not to mention that all of the 60's cars that really go for alot of money almost always have more invested in them (resto) than they go for. Plain and simple, cars are not investments, you WILL loose money on all but the super super rare occasssions.
That being the case, unless you plan on keeping it forever it doesn't matter... and if you do plan on keeping it forever make it into what you want it to be.
And why call it a "drag only" car. Frankly, if you want a drag only car you are starting with the wrong mustang (think foxbody LX notch FTW). On the other hand, if you want a fun weekend car to go out and play AND get on the track, your starting from a good point.
Also, WHY the n/a setup. I know there are some fast N/A cars out there, but its alot cheaper/easier to make lots of power FI, and you WILL make more power (and faster times assumming everything else is equal) in the end. Nobody can argueagainst the factthat a FI car is more streetable and faster than a n/a car (at least a modular setup) when the same amount of money is applied.
One last thing, the TKO is not a nessicity until you break your current transmission. I would not do any sort of trans swap until I broke what is already under the car .
IMO the bullitts are NEVER gonna be worth any signficant amount of money. Everyone talks so much about a "collectors car" but find me anything but the super super rare 60's cars (like the BB mach 1s etc) that are worth more than 20K or so...
Whats 20 grand?? Nothing! You can't even buy a brand new mustang for that (well, maybe a V6). The value of the car goes up, but so does inflation, and in the end you would be lucky to just break even on the inital cost, not to mention that all of the 60's cars that really go for alot of money almost always have more invested in them (resto) than they go for. Plain and simple, cars are not investments, you WILL loose money on all but the super super rare occasssions.
That being the case, unless you plan on keeping it forever it doesn't matter... and if you do plan on keeping it forever make it into what you want it to be.
And why call it a "drag only" car. Frankly, if you want a drag only car you are starting with the wrong mustang (think foxbody LX notch FTW). On the other hand, if you want a fun weekend car to go out and play AND get on the track, your starting from a good point.
Also, WHY the n/a setup. I know there are some fast N/A cars out there, but its alot cheaper/easier to make lots of power FI, and you WILL make more power (and faster times assumming everything else is equal) in the end. Nobody can argueagainst the factthat a FI car is more streetable and faster than a n/a car (at least a modular setup) when the same amount of money is applied.
One last thing, the TKO is not a nessicity until you break your current transmission. I would not do any sort of trans swap until I broke what is already under the car .
#8
RE: de-face a collectors?
As far as collector value,if you continue to drive the car it will lose all collector value.Those cars people see on the auction shows are few and far between,the rebuilt ones are done by pro's that have virtually unlimited recources at their disposal.
If you mothball the car right now and leave it that way for about twenty years it will be worth more than you paid for it,but think of all the fun you miss out on by letting it sit in a storage unit.That's kinda' like investing all your extra money instead of going on vacations.
If you mothball the car right now and leave it that way for about twenty years it will be worth more than you paid for it,but think of all the fun you miss out on by letting it sit in a storage unit.That's kinda' like investing all your extra money instead of going on vacations.
#9
RE: de-face a collectors?
With a BB/Stroker and P&P'd heads/Bullit Intake why are you only going with Comp 262ah cams? Go for some Crower st2 or 3 NA Cams.
You DD your car so its probably lost its value already...there are many that were bought and stored away instantly and those will be the ones that will be worth anything if they do retain a collector status in 20-30 years.
You DD your car so its probably lost its value already...there are many that were bought and stored away instantly and those will be the ones that will be worth anything if they do retain a collector status in 20-30 years.