mex69

ok im going to be building a completly forged shortblock. by summer hopefully if nothing gets in my way. and ive been goin back and forth between buying a complete shortblock from VT engines or building it up myself buying everything separetly. block, pistons, rods. etc. etc. Would it be cheaper building it myself instead of buying a complete shortblock or would it be a better bet of buying the shortblock from vt engines.. thanks guys

p.s. wuts the main differnce between an alluminum block and an iron block just weight or would the iron block be stronger.

2000GT4.6

I am interested in this as well, but I can never nail anyone down and try to figure out why the prices are so vastly different for a complete shortblock vs just the parts.

I know there are some additional machining costs (balancing) that has to go on, and there are more parts to buy than just the pistons/rods/crank, but your talking a difference of 1800 bucks vs 3500. It can't be THAT hard to put it together (at least compared to any other V8)

mex69

yea i am somewhat mechanically inclined but itll be me and my dad and my dads built more then few engines himself. so we can build it all ourselves but i just added everything i think i need for a whole engine including cams heads etc. this is what i have so far is there anything im missing.

iron windsor block - $295
complete rotating assembly 18cc - $2000.25 - including balancing
VT stage 2 ported heads - $1945.25
VT stage 2 n/a Cams - $565.25
comp cams 2v springs - $208.25

98blackgtinsc

your missing gaskets, bolts, bearings and a tune. I am building my own shortblock too, forged and whatnot, and i thought i would get out spending $1500 or so but after getting the block bored, new pistons, rods, bearings, ARP studs, gaskets, headwork, cams, springs, LTheaders (I indulged a little), x-pipe and im getting a tune and i needed a new flywheel and clutch to go 8 bolt from 6, im now looking at having spent close to 3,000 and thats not including the tools i've bought along the way, to help me put the engine in, (air compressor, tools, jack, load leveler, etc.) so it is cheaper but you also have to know what your doing when putting it back together, plastigauge bearing clearances, rotate rings 30 deg., cam timing, measure TDC and PTV, etc, its gunna be hard but as long as you take your time and you have your dad help you then you'll do fine, good luck though.

98blackgtinsc

o ya ps you could've got the springs for 109 on ebay, just letting you know, buy the studs on ebay too, ARP is the way tog o dont go for the stock tty crap. just my .02

Mark99GT

Im doing the same thing. Im torn between building it myself (which can't be too hard) or paying to have it done. There is a reputable shop that charges a flat rate of 640 for a complete long block assembly-block and heads. Im considering that since Ive got cams and springs that need to be installed/degreed along with the shortblock build.

The problem is finding a reputable manual or book that explains the details in the assembly to do it yourself. Other things to consider are where to get the rotating assembly balanced and the block machined.

Its the small parts that add up quick. Head gaskets, arp stud kits, harmonic balancer/bolt, cam gears/bolt, flywheel and clutch (if youve currently got a romeo motor). Most important are the tools to do the job properly.

Ill probably end up paying to have it done. Between the cost of tools and the risk of a mistake I might make, 640 sounds good.

bransdaman78

640 for labor - thats a steal

nanaki

i priced it out before hand and i would have saved about $600 or so piecing one together. i just bought a pre-built one. better to have the professionals do it right the first time.

bransdaman78

well i went to a pro shop and a rotating forged kit and goodies - is about 1500-2000k and then install was about 1500-2000k.. and thats with a cobra crank parts good to 1000hp, and Im pretty sure I could get him to port match and polish the heads while he was at it... so far thats the best route Ive seen

nanaki

2000k? what a rip!