4v head swap requirements
#11
RE: 4v head swap requirements
So since I'm still interested in learning what it takes regardless of if it's a headache or not, and since you're one of the few who have done it, would you care to give me a little information? I'm not asking if it's a good idea or not, I'm just asking what's involved, if for nothing else but to better my knowledge of the engines and their differences a little.
#12
RE: 4v head swap requirements
ORIGINAL: kecclest
OMG, he just said he knows its a PITA... I'm sorry to say it dude, but you probably won't get a straight answer from anybody in here because none of us has attempted said feat... probably because everybody has been telling everybody else it isnt' worth the effort. I hope you find the information you are looking for and not just dead end answers like the last post or this one.
I'm just tired of reading responsesthat don't even come close to fulfilling your questions.
OMG, he just said he knows its a PITA... I'm sorry to say it dude, but you probably won't get a straight answer from anybody in here because none of us has attempted said feat... probably because everybody has been telling everybody else it isnt' worth the effort. I hope you find the information you are looking for and not just dead end answers like the last post or this one.
I'm just tired of reading responsesthat don't even come close to fulfilling your questions.
Try finding a cobra motor to even get a donor from.. they are not exactly plentiful. I don't have too hard of a time seeing you having well over 2k in the swap all said and done, and there is ALOT of stuff you could do while keeping your 2v under the hood for 2k.
Unless you simply have too much money laying around, when you are already starting off with a PI motor it simply does not make since. If you do have to much money laying around though... why did you buy a GT?
As stated, all you really need is just an entire 4v assembly to rob parts off... so why would you only swap the top end? Modulars are not exactly the easiest motor to work with anyway, and the headers/manifolds already have to come off (and be replaced) so your 99.99 percent of the way to pulling the motor anyway.
#13
RE: 4v head swap requirements
ORIGINAL: bransdaman78
yes it can be done, basically you do needa donor motor however - to make sure you have all of the parts. Its pretty straight forward and will bolt up to a gt block, however head work and internals in a GT will get you just aboutthe same gains w/ FI and pump gas
yes it can be done, basically you do needa donor motor however - to make sure you have all of the parts. Its pretty straight forward and will bolt up to a gt block, however head work and internals in a GT will get you just aboutthe same gains w/ FI and pump gas
Yes, a fully built up 2v compares to a vanilla 4v. I'm eventually rebuilding just about everything in this car and making it into a project car, not just a fast daily drive or anything. The 4v would be great for the future plans, I just want to know what's involved.
I'm not trying to pick at anyone who's trying to help, but kecclest is right. I'm not asking how hard it is or if it's a good idea. Please only reply if you can actually give helpful information about specifics, what parts I'd need and about how much they'd all cost.
ORIGINAL: 2000GT4.6
People try to steer others away from this because its a nightmare, its really expensive, and unless you get a killer deal on the parts its simply not cost effective.
Try finding a cobra motor to even get a donor from.. they are not exactly plentiful. I don't have too hard of a time seeing you having well over 2k in the swap all said and done, and there is ALOT of stuff you could do while keeping your 2v under the hood for 2k.
Unless you simply have too much money laying around, when you are already starting off with a PI motor it simply does not make since. If you do have to much money laying around though... why did you buy a GT?
As stated, all you really need is just an entire 4v assembly to rob parts off... so why would you only swap the top end? Modulars are not exactly the easiest motor to work with anyway, and the headers/manifolds already have to come off (and be replaced) so your 99.99 percent of the way to pulling the motor anyway.
People try to steer others away from this because its a nightmare, its really expensive, and unless you get a killer deal on the parts its simply not cost effective.
Try finding a cobra motor to even get a donor from.. they are not exactly plentiful. I don't have too hard of a time seeing you having well over 2k in the swap all said and done, and there is ALOT of stuff you could do while keeping your 2v under the hood for 2k.
Unless you simply have too much money laying around, when you are already starting off with a PI motor it simply does not make since. If you do have to much money laying around though... why did you buy a GT?
As stated, all you really need is just an entire 4v assembly to rob parts off... so why would you only swap the top end? Modulars are not exactly the easiest motor to work with anyway, and the headers/manifolds already have to come off (and be replaced) so your 99.99 percent of the way to pulling the motor anyway.
#14
RE: 4v head swap requirements
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...spagenameZWD1V
There ya go.
If your talking about walking up to a ford dealer and just ordering new parts... wow your talking about a LOT of money. There are going to literally be hundreds of parts you will need, thousands upon thousands of dollars.
You really will need a donor car to get this done. You are going to need everything off the top of the engine (block up), and its going to require the 4v timing chain setup (front cover stuff). You will also need a retune for your computer (but you can use yours, although there is a good chance you will have to cut and splice wires to make a couple reach). The manifolds are also not compatible, and you will also need a new intake setup (inlet, throttle body)
I would really really consider taking the above guys advice and just finding an enitre junkyard 4v 4.6L motor. Much MUCH less PITA, will probably come with the correct mainfolds and throttle body. If you have never opened up a 2v motor I am not sure you understand you are not talking about a really easy job.
The only + side I can see is that you ARE starting with a NPI car. With a NPI car it KINDA makes since to do a 4v swap, since you really need to get rid of the stock NPI stuff any way you can. However, as stated its going to be pretty dammed expensive, and there are pretty cheap options out there compared to a 4v swap.
There ya go.
If your talking about walking up to a ford dealer and just ordering new parts... wow your talking about a LOT of money. There are going to literally be hundreds of parts you will need, thousands upon thousands of dollars.
You really will need a donor car to get this done. You are going to need everything off the top of the engine (block up), and its going to require the 4v timing chain setup (front cover stuff). You will also need a retune for your computer (but you can use yours, although there is a good chance you will have to cut and splice wires to make a couple reach). The manifolds are also not compatible, and you will also need a new intake setup (inlet, throttle body)
I would really really consider taking the above guys advice and just finding an enitre junkyard 4v 4.6L motor. Much MUCH less PITA, will probably come with the correct mainfolds and throttle body. If you have never opened up a 2v motor I am not sure you understand you are not talking about a really easy job.
The only + side I can see is that you ARE starting with a NPI car. With a NPI car it KINDA makes since to do a 4v swap, since you really need to get rid of the stock NPI stuff any way you can. However, as stated its going to be pretty dammed expensive, and there are pretty cheap options out there compared to a 4v swap.
#15
RE: 4v head swap requirements
If anything go buy/find a Mark VIII. They have the 4.6 4 valve and those cars are pretty damn cheap. Just throw the whole motor in your car. There's not much if any "custom work" to do with that route.
#16
RE: 4v head swap requirements
Thanks, I guess I misread myself and asked opinions even though I thought I said I didn't care if people thought it was a good idea or not, I just wanted to know more about it. Sorry, that's a mean reply but I'm not in the best mood right now and you guys need to learn to read.
#17
RE: 4v head swap requirements
quick question what does pi mean, i here a lot of people talk about it.
Edit: Also you should really listen to what people on here are trying to tell you, basically 0 people can help you on this because basically nobody has done this. So ontop of this being a huge headache and a bad idea, if you get stuck which i garuntee you will when having to replace half the motor, you wont have anyone around to help you out. If you want a PITA project go buy a beretta and make it run 11's on the stock block, you be at that until you die, should keep you busy.
Edit: Also you should really listen to what people on here are trying to tell you, basically 0 people can help you on this because basically nobody has done this. So ontop of this being a huge headache and a bad idea, if you get stuck which i garuntee you will when having to replace half the motor, you wont have anyone around to help you out. If you want a PITA project go buy a beretta and make it run 11's on the stock block, you be at that until you die, should keep you busy.
#18
RE: 4v head swap requirements
The collant passages will not line up with the 4 valve heads YOu might as well do the terminator swap for how much it will probably end up costing you. I know of a company that does only mustangheads and will probably have better results then the 4v if your interested.
#19
RE: 4v head swap requirements
ORIGINAL: _UnLiMiTeD_
quick question what does pi mean, i here a lot of people talk about it.
Edit: Also you should really listen to what people on here are trying to tell you, basically 0 people can help you on this because basically nobody has done this. So ontop of this being a huge headache and a bad idea, if you get stuck which i garuntee you will when having to replace half the motor, you wont have anyone around to help you out. If you want a PITA project go buy a beretta and make it run 11's on the stock block, you be at that until you die, should keep you busy.
quick question what does pi mean, i here a lot of people talk about it.
Edit: Also you should really listen to what people on here are trying to tell you, basically 0 people can help you on this because basically nobody has done this. So ontop of this being a huge headache and a bad idea, if you get stuck which i garuntee you will when having to replace half the motor, you wont have anyone around to help you out. If you want a PITA project go buy a beretta and make it run 11's on the stock block, you be at that until you die, should keep you busy.
Also, PI stands for Performance (some say Power) Improved. The 96-98 GTs had highly restrictive intakes and heads, and slightly smaller cams to match which lead to horrible flow. In 98 they ported the exhaust a little for a 10 HP improvement, but in 99 they did it right and ported everything properly, labeling it PI and going from 215 HP to 260 HP.
ORIGINAL: kcp1989
The collant passages will not line up with the 4 valve heads YOu might as well do the terminator swap for how much it will probably end up costing you. I know of a company that does only mustangheads and will probably have better results then the 4v if your interested.
The collant passages will not line up with the 4 valve heads YOu might as well do the terminator swap for how much it will probably end up costing you. I know of a company that does only mustangheads and will probably have better results then the 4v if your interested.
#20
RE: 4v head swap requirements
Heads
Valve Covers
Upper and lower intake
Throttle body
cruise and accelerator cables
Front timming cover
new timming chain
coolant crossover tube in front of engine
thermostate housing (there located off the engine on the 4V
If you get a 96 to 98 heads they will come with IMRC's so you will need the ECM that way the computer will tell them to Open. You can get a delete kit if you can find one.
I'm sure there is more but that is what I came up with
Valve Covers
Upper and lower intake
Throttle body
cruise and accelerator cables
Front timming cover
new timming chain
coolant crossover tube in front of engine
thermostate housing (there located off the engine on the 4V
If you get a 96 to 98 heads they will come with IMRC's so you will need the ECM that way the computer will tell them to Open. You can get a delete kit if you can find one.
I'm sure there is more but that is what I came up with