+2 and also you may want to take your coil packs off and see if one of them isn't cracked on the bottom. They tend due that. Also you may wanna pull those isolators off the sides of the coil packs as well as they can give you trouble with sparking at higher rpms. They are the small cylindrical looking things on the side of the pack. Held on by one screw I believe. The only thing they do is suppress the RF frequency to help out your radio. pffft, they cause more harm then good when they go! Tak'em out, nut I don't believe this will solve the problem, but merely a preventative amintenance issue!

 

i have been talking with a friend and he suggested soemthing that might make sense..... Is it possable something went haywire in my computer and grosely miss adjusted my fuel curve in that RPM range? maybe why the problem only exhists in such a small RPM range. In any case, is there anyway to reset the computer to defualts, to see if that fixes it?

 

Unhook the battery and wait 10 min and hook it back up. That'll reset the computer.

 

gonna try that then... also gonna bring it on base and try there diagnostic equipment... only costs $5 for a bay all day and all the equipment is at your disposal.

 

Well, reset the computer. No change

Replaced fuel filter. No Change

Used a fuel pressure guage on car. No problems (about 40 psi)

I know what my codes said, but if I had the acutal code number will that help me in diagnosing the problem? Like is there a list of problems if you have XXXXX code and where to start? Thanks again and I will keep you all updated. May try the TPS next as recomended earlier. One of the cheaper possable solutions and I have had a few people sugest it now.

 

You are getting rich and lean codes on both banks, that tells me that it is more than likely a MAF problem. See if you can borrow someones MAF then see what happens. It would be nice to know what the actual codes are so you can properly diag the car. The other thing you can do to test the TP sensor is take an ohm meter and check the resistance of the last two pins of it on each end of it (i think)and watch the value change as you move the throttle plate. If it goes open or stop while you keep moving it then you have a TP problem. Less likely to be but might be a plugged fuel return line but I haven't seen one of those in a long time.

 

Thanks for the quick tech talk Richinwa.... I don't know why I didn't realize the TPS was a simple rheostat. Should be easy to figure that out. I will have to wait for my buddy to get home to check that though (my meter was stolen)

 

All the tp does is tell the pcm where the throttle plate is, that's it. super easy. I am curious to know what is wrong with your car I'd almost bet you have a maf problem though.

 

How does one go about testing a MAF without replacing it all together. I would do a swap with a friend as you sugested, but I dont have any friend owning stangs in the area.

 

Anyone?