4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

RIP stock motor. What now?

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Old 04-09-2007, 05:50 PM
  #21  
2000GT4.6
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Default RE: RIP stock motor. What now?

VTengines.com

I have seen 7500+ RPM on a missed shift twice, and it was scary.
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Old 04-09-2007, 05:52 PM
  #22  
contentsunderpressur
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Default RE: RIP stock motor. What now?

ORIGINAL: tbo07

This is the one I went with.

MMR 4.6 Street Mod 900 (up to 900HP)
*Brand New Cast Iron 2004 Cobra Block, torque plate bored and honed
*New 4340 Forged 3.543 stroke Cobra Crankshaft w/micro polished journals at no extra charge
*New 4340 5.933 Manley H-beam Rods w/ARP rod bolts ( These US made rods are shotpeened, magnafluxed and weight matched to bring you the finest H-beam rod available for your 4.6
*New Forged Manley pistons 3.552 Bore size (High or low compression)
*Speed Pro file fit rings (precision file fit to your application, nitrous, blower, turbo or N/A)
*Speed Pro/Federal Mogul tri-metal Rod and Main bearings
*Complete Pro Assembly and Balancing for the smoothest, highest revving shortblock available.

Shortblock Options:
Coated Pistons (ceramic dome/teflon skirt) $399.99
Brand New Current production Aluminum Block +$699.99 for NA or $729 S/C Blocks
ARP 2000 Rod Bolt Upgrade (recommended for 900+HP) $99.99
ARP Mainstuds (recommended for 600+HP) +169.99
MMR Street/Racing Oil Pump (highly recommended) + $199.99
ARP Headstuds and MMR/Felpro Extreme Duty Headgaskets + $369.99

MMR windage tray and hardware kit (+15HP) + 129.99
*Due to the custom nature of MMR shortblocks ALL customers paying with a credit card
will be billed when the order is placed (prior to engine assembly and shipping),
All MMR shortblocks are non-refundable regardless if the item has shipped or not.


400900
$2799

From what I read they have over 100 in play on boost cars with 0 returns.
But I will let you know I am very green.
My last stang was a 67. That I put a short block in back in 1981
Thanks, this is something I'll for sure look into. How long have you had yours? Are you running blower or nitrous on it?
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Old 04-09-2007, 05:53 PM
  #23  
2000GT4.6
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Default RE: RIP stock motor. What now?

2700 bucks for that engine is a steal.
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Old 04-09-2007, 06:00 PM
  #24  
contentsunderpressur
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Default RE: RIP stock motor. What now?

ORIGINAL: 2000GT4.6

VTengines.com

I have seen 7500+ RPM on a missed shift twice, and it was scary.
Did you go forged or billet?

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Old 04-09-2007, 06:02 PM
  #25  
contentsunderpressur
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Default RE: RIP stock motor. What now?

ORIGINAL: 2000GT4.6

2700 bucks for that engine is a steal.
Yea, that's without APR studs, main girdle ect. If you add all the extras it's the same price as the VT engines. The VT engines allready come with that stuff.
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Old 04-09-2007, 06:06 PM
  #26  
tbo07
 
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Default RE: RIP stock motor. What now?

ORIGINAL: contentsunderpressur

ORIGINAL: tbo07

This is the one I went with.

MMR 4.6 Street Mod 900 (up to 900HP)
*Brand New Cast Iron 2004 Cobra Block, torque plate bored and honed
*New 4340 Forged 3.543 stroke Cobra Crankshaft w/micro polished journals at no extra charge
*New 4340 5.933 Manley H-beam Rods w/ARP rod bolts ( These US made rods are shotpeened, magnafluxed and weight matched to bring you the finest H-beam rod available for your 4.6
*New Forged Manley pistons 3.552 Bore size (High or low compression)
*Speed Pro file fit rings (precision file fit to your application, nitrous, blower, turbo or N/A)
*Speed Pro/Federal Mogul tri-metal Rod and Main bearings
*Complete Pro Assembly and Balancing for the smoothest, highest revving shortblock available.

Shortblock Options:
Coated Pistons (ceramic dome/teflon skirt) $399.99
Brand New Current production Aluminum Block +$699.99 for NA or $729 S/C Blocks
ARP 2000 Rod Bolt Upgrade (recommended for 900+HP) $99.99
ARP Mainstuds (recommended for 600+HP) +169.99
MMR Street/Racing Oil Pump (highly recommended) + $199.99
ARP Headstuds and MMR/Felpro Extreme Duty Headgaskets + $369.99

MMR windage tray and hardware kit (+15HP) + 129.99
*Due to the custom nature of MMR shortblocks ALL customers paying with a credit card
will be billed when the order is placed (prior to engine assembly and shipping),
All MMR shortblocks are non-refundable regardless if the item has shipped or not.


400900
$2799

From what I read they have over 100 in play on boost cars with 0 returns.
But I will let you know I am very green.
My last stang was a 67. That I put a short block in back in 1981
Thanks, this is something I'll for sure look into. How long have you had yours? Are you running blower or nitrous on it?

Mine is in final stage of the assembly process
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Old 04-09-2007, 06:16 PM
  #27  
Mark99GT
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Default RE: RIP stock motor. What now?

I say CP pistons. Theyre beefy as hell. Check out these pics. Ill be installing these 9cc dishs with the Modmax h beams and forged cobra crank.

For rods, Manley, Modmax or Eagle (make sureARP2000 bolts)andof course aforged Cobra crank.



[IMG]local://upfiles/5305/CBE5D4785DE542EB9B3CF98BBCFA1692.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/5305/88EAF1D7C95C44D1AFFB39167D54168B.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/5305/12650B49ED4D42A6B8D8DC2A86F526D6.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/5305/C0D680D81F1B46CF9839E8C77FFB7AAD.jpg[/IMG]
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Old 04-09-2007, 06:50 PM
  #28  
contentsunderpressur
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Default RE: RIP stock motor. What now?

ORIGINAL: Mark99GT

I say CP pistons. Theyre beefy as hell. Check out these pics. Ill be installing these 9cc dishs with the Modmax h beams and forged cobra crank.

For rods, Manley, Modmax or Eagle (make sureARP2000 bolts)andof course aforged Cobra crank.



[IMG]local://upfiles/5305/CBE5D4785DE542EB9B3CF98BBCFA1692.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/5305/88EAF1D7C95C44D1AFFB39167D54168B.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/5305/12650B49ED4D42A6B8D8DC2A86F526D6.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/5305/C0D680D81F1B46CF9839E8C77FFB7AAD.jpg[/IMG]
How much did you pay for all that stuff?
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Old 04-09-2007, 06:54 PM
  #29  
trbuddy
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Default RE: RIP stock motor. What now?

Well just a few days ago I finally was finished building up my motor and went to the dyno to dial it in. I just did not get the hp I expected. So I did a compression check and as I feared before it was very low average about 110psi. From what I'm reading you did the compression check in a different way and I do not know if you can read correct numbers that way. I was always the impression that you have to disconnect all sparkplugs plus the fuelpump first. Then use starter and full throttle to measure the compression. First you measure without putting oil in the cylinder. Then put some oil down the cylinder and then measure the psi again. If the psi goes up you have cylinder blow by. If the pressure remains the same you have a bad valve. I do not know about you guys but that's how I was thought. You agree? And by the way I will start rebuild my engine with forged internals this coming friday. Can't wait to finally but some big boost on the motor!
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Old 04-09-2007, 07:19 PM
  #30  
GodAmGT00
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Default RE: RIP stock motor. What now?

Just for sh-ts and giggles, did you do a Wet compression test or a dry compression test?? The reason I ask is, even though you can't precisely diagnose a hole in the piston w/ a wet compression test, you can at least find out if it's more valve/top end related than bottom end.. Plus, I believe they have little scopes you can get to look inside.. Obviously you've got bigger problems, so maybe disassembly would be the way to go though..

Oh, and +1 on the VT Engines.. Those are pretty nasty, and I like their reputation... I'm sure the others are fine, but VT would've been my choice if I still had my car....



JT
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