what suspension should I run?
#11
RE: what suspension should I run?
ORIGINAL: 2000GT4.6
If your looking for a good drag racing/strip setup it seems like your on the right track. Shocks/struts/springs and control arms are a solid setup without spending tons of money.
Everyone screams coilovers but its a huge job and lots of money, espcially compared to just doing the basic (above) setup The first time I went out with basically what your talking about, onlyatthe time I still had in the stock rear springs, andI went 1.9s on the nittos in 60 degree weather, just letting the clutch out easy and flooring it.
Roush makes a good spring to comliment the foxbody 4cyl in the front. They just label it as "roush drag racing spring, rear" on their website, I put em in and they seem to be doing better than the stockers, but I will have to wait and see.
So far as the control arms, I still have seen no evidence whatsoever of the upper control arm causing problems. I did both (along with the springs/struts/shocks) at the same time so I cannot say the UCAs helped any but they definatly have not hurt performance. I am not exactly alone in this experence, as I have never talked to anyone that has had problems with the UCAs, other than aereon that is.
On a nitto you should see at least a 1.8 to 1.75 with a good/great launch and a good track. On a stickyer tire its anyones guess, but it should be easy to get a MT/ET into say the 1.65s with good driving and a good track. If your making around 10 PSI you should see around 380-400 WHP, that should be enough even in a full weight car with a 1.65~ 60' to see 11s.
ORIGINAL: jpmustanggt
I just got out of school for the summer, I'm trying to figure out what suspension to run. I was planning on strange 10 way adjustable shocks/struts, full lenght subframe connectors, prostars and MT slicks, fox body springs up front, some kind of spring in the back ( which one?). Would a panhard bar benefit me at all? I have all the parts to build my rear I just gotta wait about a week to get it put in.
Should I stick with this setup or a setup similiar to it or should I go a completely different route, maybe coilovers or something?
Just give me some help, I'm looking for mid to high 11's by the end of the summer. I basically have about a second to improve to get there.
I'm getting a boost pipe soon and also would switching from 4.10's to 3.73's help at all? I've right at the rev limiter in 4th at the end of the 1/4.
Will I reach my goal?
Any help is appreciated!
I just got out of school for the summer, I'm trying to figure out what suspension to run. I was planning on strange 10 way adjustable shocks/struts, full lenght subframe connectors, prostars and MT slicks, fox body springs up front, some kind of spring in the back ( which one?). Would a panhard bar benefit me at all? I have all the parts to build my rear I just gotta wait about a week to get it put in.
Should I stick with this setup or a setup similiar to it or should I go a completely different route, maybe coilovers or something?
Just give me some help, I'm looking for mid to high 11's by the end of the summer. I basically have about a second to improve to get there.
I'm getting a boost pipe soon and also would switching from 4.10's to 3.73's help at all? I've right at the rev limiter in 4th at the end of the 1/4.
Will I reach my goal?
Any help is appreciated!
Everyone screams coilovers but its a huge job and lots of money, espcially compared to just doing the basic (above) setup The first time I went out with basically what your talking about, onlyatthe time I still had in the stock rear springs, andI went 1.9s on the nittos in 60 degree weather, just letting the clutch out easy and flooring it.
Roush makes a good spring to comliment the foxbody 4cyl in the front. They just label it as "roush drag racing spring, rear" on their website, I put em in and they seem to be doing better than the stockers, but I will have to wait and see.
So far as the control arms, I still have seen no evidence whatsoever of the upper control arm causing problems. I did both (along with the springs/struts/shocks) at the same time so I cannot say the UCAs helped any but they definatly have not hurt performance. I am not exactly alone in this experence, as I have never talked to anyone that has had problems with the UCAs, other than aereon that is.
On a nitto you should see at least a 1.8 to 1.75 with a good/great launch and a good track. On a stickyer tire its anyones guess, but it should be easy to get a MT/ET into say the 1.65s with good driving and a good track. If your making around 10 PSI you should see around 380-400 WHP, that should be enough even in a full weight car with a 1.65~ 60' to see 11s.
To sum it all up, lakewood has some nice shocks that are damn good at helping ya plant. I know little about drag springs so I will not venture to offer a suggestion on those.
#12
RE: what suspension should I run?
ORIGINAL: Aereon
I'm hoping I didn't come across as one that screamed coilovers, I just mentioned it as I did not know if he is going to be only doing the strip. Therefore the coilover setup would give him a bit more flexibility. With that being said, MMR has a nice coilover setup for pretty cheap, and is similarly priced to some springs/shocks/struts combo's. They are, in my opinion, more of a drag company tho, and have not heard anyone push them hard on a course, so if your looking for a set of coilovers that will allow you to switch between the track and a course I'd look else where.
To sum it all up, lakewood has some nice shocks that are damn good at helping ya plant. I know little about drag springs so I will not venture to offer a suggestion on those.
ORIGINAL: 2000GT4.6
If your looking for a good drag racing/strip setup it seems like your on the right track. Shocks/struts/springs and control arms are a solid setup without spending tons of money.
Everyone screams coilovers but its a huge job and lots of money, espcially compared to just doing the basic (above) setup The first time I went out with basically what your talking about, onlyatthe time I still had in the stock rear springs, andI went 1.9s on the nittos in 60 degree weather, just letting the clutch out easy and flooring it.
Roush makes a good spring to comliment the foxbody 4cyl in the front. They just label it as "roush drag racing spring, rear" on their website, I put em in and they seem to be doing better than the stockers, but I will have to wait and see.
So far as the control arms, I still have seen no evidence whatsoever of the upper control arm causing problems. I did both (along with the springs/struts/shocks) at the same time so I cannot say the UCAs helped any but they definatly have not hurt performance. I am not exactly alone in this experence, as I have never talked to anyone that has had problems with the UCAs, other than aereon that is.
On a nitto you should see at least a 1.8 to 1.75 with a good/great launch and a good track. On a stickyer tire its anyones guess, but it should be easy to get a MT/ET into say the 1.65s with good driving and a good track. If your making around 10 PSI you should see around 380-400 WHP, that should be enough even in a full weight car with a 1.65~ 60' to see 11s.
ORIGINAL: jpmustanggt
I just got out of school for the summer, I'm trying to figure out what suspension to run. I was planning on strange 10 way adjustable shocks/struts, full lenght subframe connectors, prostars and MT slicks, fox body springs up front, some kind of spring in the back ( which one?). Would a panhard bar benefit me at all? I have all the parts to build my rear I just gotta wait about a week to get it put in.
Should I stick with this setup or a setup similiar to it or should I go a completely different route, maybe coilovers or something?
Just give me some help, I'm looking for mid to high 11's by the end of the summer. I basically have about a second to improve to get there.
I'm getting a boost pipe soon and also would switching from 4.10's to 3.73's help at all? I've right at the rev limiter in 4th at the end of the 1/4.
Will I reach my goal?
Any help is appreciated!
I just got out of school for the summer, I'm trying to figure out what suspension to run. I was planning on strange 10 way adjustable shocks/struts, full lenght subframe connectors, prostars and MT slicks, fox body springs up front, some kind of spring in the back ( which one?). Would a panhard bar benefit me at all? I have all the parts to build my rear I just gotta wait about a week to get it put in.
Should I stick with this setup or a setup similiar to it or should I go a completely different route, maybe coilovers or something?
Just give me some help, I'm looking for mid to high 11's by the end of the summer. I basically have about a second to improve to get there.
I'm getting a boost pipe soon and also would switching from 4.10's to 3.73's help at all? I've right at the rev limiter in 4th at the end of the 1/4.
Will I reach my goal?
Any help is appreciated!
Everyone screams coilovers but its a huge job and lots of money, espcially compared to just doing the basic (above) setup The first time I went out with basically what your talking about, onlyatthe time I still had in the stock rear springs, andI went 1.9s on the nittos in 60 degree weather, just letting the clutch out easy and flooring it.
Roush makes a good spring to comliment the foxbody 4cyl in the front. They just label it as "roush drag racing spring, rear" on their website, I put em in and they seem to be doing better than the stockers, but I will have to wait and see.
So far as the control arms, I still have seen no evidence whatsoever of the upper control arm causing problems. I did both (along with the springs/struts/shocks) at the same time so I cannot say the UCAs helped any but they definatly have not hurt performance. I am not exactly alone in this experence, as I have never talked to anyone that has had problems with the UCAs, other than aereon that is.
On a nitto you should see at least a 1.8 to 1.75 with a good/great launch and a good track. On a stickyer tire its anyones guess, but it should be easy to get a MT/ET into say the 1.65s with good driving and a good track. If your making around 10 PSI you should see around 380-400 WHP, that should be enough even in a full weight car with a 1.65~ 60' to see 11s.
To sum it all up, lakewood has some nice shocks that are damn good at helping ya plant. I know little about drag springs so I will not venture to offer a suggestion on those.
I'm making 376rwhp, I just can't launch the 'effer. Honest to go I was almost embarresed today. I'm gonna try some tricks on Thursday night if I go. The track prep wasn't that good today anyway!
With the roush springs in now I can launch around 2500-3000 on basically cold nittos (had a run or 2 on them but no burnout) and it doesn't spin at all in 1st or 2nd gear. Its a totally different feeling when the car starts to hookup in 1st, that was the only thing I missed about the car as it was pre blower, before the suspension I could never get a clean run all the way thru 1st.
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