jpmustanggt

I just got out of school for the summer, I'm trying to figure out what suspension to run. I was planning on strange 10 way adjustable shocks/struts, full lenght subframe connectors, prostars and MT slicks, fox body springs up front, some kind of spring in the back ( which one?). Would a panhard bar benefit me at all? I have all the parts to build my rear I just gotta wait about a week to get it put in.
Should I stick with this setup or a setup similiar to it or should I go a completely different route, maybe coilovers or something?
Just give me some help, I'm looking for mid to high 11's by the end of the summer. I basically have about a second to improve to get there.
I'm getting a boost pipe soon and also would switching from 4.10's to 3.73's help at all? I've right at the rev limiter in 4th at the end of the 1/4.
Will I reach my goal?
Any help is appreciated!

jpmustanggt

Bump for the morning crowd!

NeoTokyo

Maxumim Motorsports grip in a box.

If you can afford the grip in a box then use their conversion in the rear for a 3 link panhard and get the subframe connectors. If you can afford the next step then convert to full coil over and if you can afford the tubular K-member then just get the whole kit

Their kit starts at $4500 and is probably the best $4500 you will ever spend.

NeoTokyo

I should mention that they can get very very expensive depending on options.

jpmustanggt

Man, with that much money I should go ahead and get a built shortblock then I'll def be in the 11's. HAHA

Aereon

If your going for a drag setup, just get yourself a nice set of lca's, semi-stiff springs, and a good set of lakewood shocks. Panhard bar's are nice, as they allow you to delete one of the uca's and form a 3link rear setup, if you do not know, the stock 4 link does a crappy job controlling axle windup and locating the axles movement side to side. Most people make the mistake of upgrading the uca's, but in the stock position they do nothing but make a crappy handling rear, even worse. Panhard bar's will make your car feel completely different during corners or turns but if its a drag only car, you can do without. Also if you do decide to go with a panhard bar, put some money down on a heavy duty torque arm, and delete both the UCA's. Also if you upgrade your LCA's then you can also remove the stock quad shock.. it's pretty damn useless heh.

One recommendation is, while you have your rearend apart, look into installing the 13" brake upgrade, the cobra rear brake upgrade is more than enough in almost any application you throw at it. buyfordracing has the rear upgrade kit for 165 which is pretty cheap.

For a DD car I would recommend a set of coilovers, they locate the springs on top of the shocks/struts thus changing the geometry of how the springs/shocks/struts compress. The biggest advantage is that you can set up the springs to put more weight on one corner or one side of the car by adjusting the height of that side or wheel. It also free's up a tiny bit of space in the engine compartment.

jpmustanggt

The quad shock is the shock going diagonal the wheel right? Will it improve performance at all?
Also, how about the front sway bar, how does removing it affect performance and how hard is it?
I already have upper and lower control arms. After I build my rear and get the shocks and struts how should my 60's look?
Thanks to anyone that can answer my questions, I'm not very mechanically inclined!

Aereon

the quad shock is a throw away part when you have a pretty good aftermarket lca. Front stabar is unbolted and taken off, most people take it off as a weight reduction when they goto the strip, they do this to save weight. However driving it as your DD with no front stabar will result in a ton of body roll and a bad case of oversteer.
Best advice is to get rid of the UCA's if this is your DD, and I do not want to guess on what your 60's will look like because of the different shocks/springs setup can cause a drastic change in your times.

2000GT4.6

If your looking for a good drag racing/strip setup it seems like your on the right track. Shocks/struts/springs and control arms are a solid setup without spending tons of money.

Everyone screams coilovers but its a huge job and lots of money, espcially compared to just doing the basic (above) setup The first time I went out with basically what your talking about, onlyatthe time I still had in the stock rear springs, andI went 1.9s on the nittos in 60 degree weather, just letting the clutch out easy and flooring it.

Roush makes a good spring to comliment the foxbody 4cyl in the front. They just label it as "roush drag racing spring, rear" on their website, I put em in and they seem to be doing better than the stockers, but I will have to wait and see.

So far as the control arms, I still have seen no evidence whatsoever of the upper control arm causing problems. I did both (along with the springs/struts/shocks) at the same time so I cannot say the UCAs helped any but they definatly have not hurt performance. I am not exactly alone in this experence, as I have never talked to anyone that has had problems with the UCAs, other than aereon that is.

On a nitto you should see at least a 1.8 to 1.75 with a good/great launch and a good track. On a stickyer tire its anyones guess, but it should be easy to get a MT/ET into say the 1.65s with good driving and a good track. If your making around 10 PSI you should see around 380-400 WHP, that should be enough even in a full weight car with a 1.65~ 60' to see 11s.

jpmustanggt

I'm making 376rwhp, I just can't launch the 'effer. Honest to go I was almost embarresed today. I'm gonna try some tricks on Thursday night if I go. The track prep wasn't that good today anyway!