pi intake on non pi heads
12-20-2004, 12:50 PM
#16
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Join Date: Sep 2003
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RE: pi intake on non pi heads
This is a copy and paste: Its really not as complicated as the it looks below - just swap on the PI intake and use a non-PI gasket with some rtv.
[quote]Non-PI to PI intake swap instructions Hey everyone! I tried to be as complete as possible with this write up. I apologize if I missed anything, but I highly doubt I did. Its kind of tough, since I am doing this write up after the car is all back together. I included a couple tips that happened to me, so that you will be ready for them in your ripping apart of your car. Hopefully this will be of great help, and maybe even learn something from it. haha Anyway, here goes…..
1) Unplug negative side of battery! 98 GT’s can skip this next part. All you 96-97 people, remove the strut tower bar. It is held on with 10mm bolts.
2) Next, unplug the connector at the MAF (mass air flow sensor) and the connector directly upstream of it, the IAT (intake air temp. sensor). Put these to the side so they don’t get caught when you take the intake tube out of the car.
3) Next, take off the 2 PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) tubes, one off the intake tube itself, the other on the intake plenum. Disconnect the red vacuum lines from the plenum, EGR (exhaust gas recirculation), and FPR (fuel pressure regulator). Next, take off the intake hose that leads to the IAC (idle air control) on the plenum. Put these 3 hoses aside out of the car, because they will not be needed until near the end.
4) Unbolt the airbox and unscrew the hose clamp at the throttle body. These are both 8mm.
5) Unbolt the black bracket that holds the throttle linkage. It is held on with 2 10mm bolts on the top of the plenum, and 1 8mm bolt by the FRP. Unbolt the throttle body. It is held on with 4 8mm bolts. You can just move this off to the back or to the side, wherever it wont be in your way.
6) Next, unbolt the EGR. It is held on with 2 10mm bolts. (HINT: Remove the EGR itself, and the line leading down from it to the exhaust manifold if in any way possible. I did not, and it was a PAIN to remove the intake manifold and put in the PI piece. It will save you a lot of hassle, and wrestling with the manifolds.)
7) Unbolt the intake plenum next. It is held on with 5 8mm bolts.
8) Next thing to tackle is the 2 fuel lines on the passenger side of the intake manifold. You will need a special tool for this, and I bought mine at AutoZone for $5. It’s metal, and will come in handy down the road for sure. The top hose uses a ½†removal tool. Undo this one, and beware of fuel in the lines. The bottom line uses a 5/8†removal tool, and also will have fuel in it. (HINT: Grab a rag to catch that fuel that will be coming out. You don’t want that all over your plug wires and injectors.)
9) Next, you will need to undo the connector at the A/C compressor (I believe that is where it was connected at. If not, you will clearly see it). There will be 2 white pushpin type things holding the wiring harness in place. One is near the compressor, one is farther upward of it I believe. Remove those so the harness can move up towards the top of the engine. Next, undo the connectors at the passenger side coil pack. There is 2 of them. Pull some slack up so you can have that to move out of the way of the fuel rail, and you will have some slack later to re-route the harness properly.
10) Next, undo the injector connectors themselves. Label if you feel like it, but it should be obvious which ones are for which injector. Move the wiring harness assembly out of the way of the fuel rail.
11) Next, you need to undo the connectors for the 2 CTS’ (coolant temp. sensor). Next, you will need to unscrew the 2 CTS’ and put them to the side for now. These are a ¾†nut shape towards the bottom of the CTS.
12) Next, unbolt the spark plug wire harness on the back of the alternator. This is held in with 3 8mm bolts. (TIP: The new PI intake will only be able to use 2 of these holes. The newer GT’s have a different bracket, because they don’t use spark plug wires. So don’t be worried if you end up with an extra.)
13) Next, we need to unbolt the fuel rails themselves. These are held in with 4 8mm bolts. You will need a deep socket to reach the nut itself though. (HINT: Beware of fuel spill!!! There is still fuel in those lines!!!)
14) When you go to remove the fuel rail and its rubber white lines, the injectors will seem stuck. They are just held in by o-rings, and will “snap†out of place. Remove the injectors and lines as a whole unit to place onto PI intake.
15) Next, unbolt the silver colored controller near where the FPR was, and undo connector going into the front of it. Move this to the side, out of the way of the 10mm intake manifold bolt right below it.
16) DRAIN COOLANT! You do not want coolant falling into the cylinders or all over your plugs wires. Good time to flush, and get a new 180-degree thermostat if you feel so inclined.
17) Next, undo the spring clamp holding the coolant/heater hose on the passenger side of the intake manifold. It might be tough to get off, because it has been so hot, and been on so long. Beware of possible coolant spill.
18) Next, undo the thermostat housing bolts, which both are 10mm. Move the hose and thermostat housing out of the way for now. Take the thermostat out and place in a clean safe place. Inspect the o-ring that sits in the coolant opening where the thermostat sat. Replace if necessary.
19) Next, you can start unbolting the intake manifold. It is held on with 11 10mm bolts. Two of which were the thermostat housing. Remove manifold and place to the side, ready to sell to a poor person in need of an intake manifold that isn’t cracked, and hasn’t heard of this mod. Haha
20) You will see a metal line running in the valley of the block. This is a coolant/heater line. It is held on with 2 10mm bolts, both on the backside of the driver side head. The bottom bolt is a pain to get to, so be patient.
21) Next, pull this metal line off the little snout that it goes over. Beware of more coolant spilling. This line was sort of tough for me to get off, and I pulled hard, and coolant went everywhere. Not cool!
22) Attach the new line, which is a whole different piece from Ford to the small snout, and bolt it to the back of the head with one of those 10 mm bolts. This is where you will have another extra bolt. This should be the last one.
23) Put the hose back on this line with a hose clamp. The stock spring clamps are somewhat of a pain to use. Its up to you though.
24) Remove the old non-PI gaskets and replace if necessary. One area of concern is with the sealing of the intake to head. Inspect the areas of sealing, and if there is any concern, use some RTV gasket maker in those spots. (Recommended by Johnny Langton of modulardepot.com)
25) Take the passenger side CTS and apply new Teflon tape to the threads. Replace it into the threaded spot on the intake manifold.
26) Next, you can start bolting down the intake manifold. Torque specs are 22-31lb-ft of torque. There is a specific sequence, so refer to a repair manual of some sort for this diagram.
27) With the coolant drained out, now is a perfect time to put that other coolant temp sensor back in. I put mine in the driver side of the block. There is a little brass plug with an allen wrench port on it that the driver side CTS will thread right into. It is located right near the manifold towards the back of the block. Beware of yet another coolant spill. This one will be pretty big. Apply Teflon tape and thread CTS in. You will later on need to splice into the wires for the CTS and extend them to the new sensor location. I have heard of several people doing this with no side effects whatsoever.
28) From here on out, its pretty much reverse of what was done above. I know I hate reading that in a write up, but you probably don’t even need this for the remaining part of the install. Ju
[quote]Non-PI to PI intake swap instructions Hey everyone! I tried to be as complete as possible with this write up. I apologize if I missed anything, but I highly doubt I did. Its kind of tough, since I am doing this write up after the car is all back together. I included a couple tips that happened to me, so that you will be ready for them in your ripping apart of your car. Hopefully this will be of great help, and maybe even learn something from it. haha Anyway, here goes…..
1) Unplug negative side of battery! 98 GT’s can skip this next part. All you 96-97 people, remove the strut tower bar. It is held on with 10mm bolts.
2) Next, unplug the connector at the MAF (mass air flow sensor) and the connector directly upstream of it, the IAT (intake air temp. sensor). Put these to the side so they don’t get caught when you take the intake tube out of the car.
3) Next, take off the 2 PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) tubes, one off the intake tube itself, the other on the intake plenum. Disconnect the red vacuum lines from the plenum, EGR (exhaust gas recirculation), and FPR (fuel pressure regulator). Next, take off the intake hose that leads to the IAC (idle air control) on the plenum. Put these 3 hoses aside out of the car, because they will not be needed until near the end.
4) Unbolt the airbox and unscrew the hose clamp at the throttle body. These are both 8mm.
5) Unbolt the black bracket that holds the throttle linkage. It is held on with 2 10mm bolts on the top of the plenum, and 1 8mm bolt by the FRP. Unbolt the throttle body. It is held on with 4 8mm bolts. You can just move this off to the back or to the side, wherever it wont be in your way.
6) Next, unbolt the EGR. It is held on with 2 10mm bolts. (HINT: Remove the EGR itself, and the line leading down from it to the exhaust manifold if in any way possible. I did not, and it was a PAIN to remove the intake manifold and put in the PI piece. It will save you a lot of hassle, and wrestling with the manifolds.)
7) Unbolt the intake plenum next. It is held on with 5 8mm bolts.
8) Next thing to tackle is the 2 fuel lines on the passenger side of the intake manifold. You will need a special tool for this, and I bought mine at AutoZone for $5. It’s metal, and will come in handy down the road for sure. The top hose uses a ½†removal tool. Undo this one, and beware of fuel in the lines. The bottom line uses a 5/8†removal tool, and also will have fuel in it. (HINT: Grab a rag to catch that fuel that will be coming out. You don’t want that all over your plug wires and injectors.)
9) Next, you will need to undo the connector at the A/C compressor (I believe that is where it was connected at. If not, you will clearly see it). There will be 2 white pushpin type things holding the wiring harness in place. One is near the compressor, one is farther upward of it I believe. Remove those so the harness can move up towards the top of the engine. Next, undo the connectors at the passenger side coil pack. There is 2 of them. Pull some slack up so you can have that to move out of the way of the fuel rail, and you will have some slack later to re-route the harness properly.
10) Next, undo the injector connectors themselves. Label if you feel like it, but it should be obvious which ones are for which injector. Move the wiring harness assembly out of the way of the fuel rail.
11) Next, you need to undo the connectors for the 2 CTS’ (coolant temp. sensor). Next, you will need to unscrew the 2 CTS’ and put them to the side for now. These are a ¾†nut shape towards the bottom of the CTS.
12) Next, unbolt the spark plug wire harness on the back of the alternator. This is held in with 3 8mm bolts. (TIP: The new PI intake will only be able to use 2 of these holes. The newer GT’s have a different bracket, because they don’t use spark plug wires. So don’t be worried if you end up with an extra.)
13) Next, we need to unbolt the fuel rails themselves. These are held in with 4 8mm bolts. You will need a deep socket to reach the nut itself though. (HINT: Beware of fuel spill!!! There is still fuel in those lines!!!)
14) When you go to remove the fuel rail and its rubber white lines, the injectors will seem stuck. They are just held in by o-rings, and will “snap†out of place. Remove the injectors and lines as a whole unit to place onto PI intake.
15) Next, unbolt the silver colored controller near where the FPR was, and undo connector going into the front of it. Move this to the side, out of the way of the 10mm intake manifold bolt right below it.
16) DRAIN COOLANT! You do not want coolant falling into the cylinders or all over your plugs wires. Good time to flush, and get a new 180-degree thermostat if you feel so inclined.
17) Next, undo the spring clamp holding the coolant/heater hose on the passenger side of the intake manifold. It might be tough to get off, because it has been so hot, and been on so long. Beware of possible coolant spill.
18) Next, undo the thermostat housing bolts, which both are 10mm. Move the hose and thermostat housing out of the way for now. Take the thermostat out and place in a clean safe place. Inspect the o-ring that sits in the coolant opening where the thermostat sat. Replace if necessary.
19) Next, you can start unbolting the intake manifold. It is held on with 11 10mm bolts. Two of which were the thermostat housing. Remove manifold and place to the side, ready to sell to a poor person in need of an intake manifold that isn’t cracked, and hasn’t heard of this mod. Haha
20) You will see a metal line running in the valley of the block. This is a coolant/heater line. It is held on with 2 10mm bolts, both on the backside of the driver side head. The bottom bolt is a pain to get to, so be patient.
21) Next, pull this metal line off the little snout that it goes over. Beware of more coolant spilling. This line was sort of tough for me to get off, and I pulled hard, and coolant went everywhere. Not cool!
22) Attach the new line, which is a whole different piece from Ford to the small snout, and bolt it to the back of the head with one of those 10 mm bolts. This is where you will have another extra bolt. This should be the last one.
23) Put the hose back on this line with a hose clamp. The stock spring clamps are somewhat of a pain to use. Its up to you though.
24) Remove the old non-PI gaskets and replace if necessary. One area of concern is with the sealing of the intake to head. Inspect the areas of sealing, and if there is any concern, use some RTV gasket maker in those spots. (Recommended by Johnny Langton of modulardepot.com)
25) Take the passenger side CTS and apply new Teflon tape to the threads. Replace it into the threaded spot on the intake manifold.
26) Next, you can start bolting down the intake manifold. Torque specs are 22-31lb-ft of torque. There is a specific sequence, so refer to a repair manual of some sort for this diagram.
27) With the coolant drained out, now is a perfect time to put that other coolant temp sensor back in. I put mine in the driver side of the block. There is a little brass plug with an allen wrench port on it that the driver side CTS will thread right into. It is located right near the manifold towards the back of the block. Beware of yet another coolant spill. This one will be pretty big. Apply Teflon tape and thread CTS in. You will later on need to splice into the wires for the CTS and extend them to the new sensor location. I have heard of several people doing this with no side effects whatsoever.
28) From here on out, its pretty much reverse of what was done above. I know I hate reading that in a write up, but you probably don’t even need this for the remaining part of the install. Ju
