Almost Wrecked my Stang HELP
#21
RE: Almost Wrecked my Stang HELP
Have you removed the MAF screen? If so that is your problem. Both prior vehicles that I removed the screen in died at seemingly random times every once in a while. With the new mach...the screen is still in and I have never had the problem.
#23
RE: Almost Wrecked my Stang HELP
I think I may (not sure) have an extra one laying around if you need it. What you need to do it take out your air filter, and then expose the MAF sensore that is behind it, then see if there is a metal screen infront of the MAF sensor.
It will look kinda like this:
It will look kinda like this:
#25
RE: Almost Wrecked my Stang HELP
ORIGINAL: Slicktastyk Matt
Wierd, JLT's intructions told me not to reuse to the screen. Hopefully something bad won't happen lol
Wierd, JLT's intructions told me not to reuse to the screen. Hopefully something bad won't happen lol
#26
RE: Almost Wrecked my Stang HELP
Got your pm chris
If all of your gauge warning lights are on then you probably have no charging problem unless the battery terminals are just kind of jumping on and off your battery. With the cars alternator charging you would think it would run with the battery unhooked but mustangs along with alot of newer vehichles usually won't. Its something to do with the computer.
About the K&N filter... man I honestly just dont believe thats your problem. Just think about all the cars out there with cold air intakes and K&N filters that run fine... think about the cars with superchargers that are getting lotsss more air that runs fine..
I'm not really sure what it is, but I'd bet it will happen again. Its probably worth going to a mechanic about.
Is it shutting off while your giving it gas or when you get out of it real quick. If it happens when you get out of the throttle really quick... maybe while pushing in on the clutch so that the rpms drop... then it dies... then this problem is pretty common.. probably just idle air control valve all dirtyed up...
if its happening while your in the throttle then i'm not sure... if it goes to bogging down like its running out of gas maybe you have a fuel problem... then maybe you either need to change the fuel filter... or the pump.
If you don't want to take it to a mechanic then I'd start by:
Changing the fuel filter
Spark Plugs.. just get a set of NGKs for about $1.77 a piece TR55's or TR6's
Clean the idle air control valve..
Clean the battery terminals ...and battery post.. make sure the terminals are on tight. you shouldn't be able to wiggle them on the post
Take it to an Advance Auto Parts and have your alternator and battery checked.. and if the engine light is on have them check to see what codes come up...
If all of your gauge warning lights are on then you probably have no charging problem unless the battery terminals are just kind of jumping on and off your battery. With the cars alternator charging you would think it would run with the battery unhooked but mustangs along with alot of newer vehichles usually won't. Its something to do with the computer.
About the K&N filter... man I honestly just dont believe thats your problem. Just think about all the cars out there with cold air intakes and K&N filters that run fine... think about the cars with superchargers that are getting lotsss more air that runs fine..
I'm not really sure what it is, but I'd bet it will happen again. Its probably worth going to a mechanic about.
Is it shutting off while your giving it gas or when you get out of it real quick. If it happens when you get out of the throttle really quick... maybe while pushing in on the clutch so that the rpms drop... then it dies... then this problem is pretty common.. probably just idle air control valve all dirtyed up...
if its happening while your in the throttle then i'm not sure... if it goes to bogging down like its running out of gas maybe you have a fuel problem... then maybe you either need to change the fuel filter... or the pump.
If you don't want to take it to a mechanic then I'd start by:
Changing the fuel filter
Spark Plugs.. just get a set of NGKs for about $1.77 a piece TR55's or TR6's
Clean the idle air control valve..
Clean the battery terminals ...and battery post.. make sure the terminals are on tight. you shouldn't be able to wiggle them on the post
Take it to an Advance Auto Parts and have your alternator and battery checked.. and if the engine light is on have them check to see what codes come up...
#27
RE: Almost Wrecked my Stang HELP
Quicktime: Yes the computers have an adaptive program, but it's stored in memory that does not save when it loses power. When the battery is disconnected for ~15 minutes, the whole system discharges and the memory the adaptive information is stored in loses power, and all data in it is lost. When you power it back up, it starts to re-learn everything from scratch.
#28
RE: Almost Wrecked my Stang HELP
ORIGINAL: ShadowDrake
Quicktime: Yes the computers have an adaptive program, but it's stored in memory that does not save when it loses power. When the battery is disconnected for ~15 minutes, the whole system discharges and the memory the adaptive information is stored in loses power, and all data in it is lost. When you power it back up, it starts to re-learn everything from scratch.
Quicktime: Yes the computers have an adaptive program, but it's stored in memory that does not save when it loses power. When the battery is disconnected for ~15 minutes, the whole system discharges and the memory the adaptive information is stored in loses power, and all data in it is lost. When you power it back up, it starts to re-learn everything from scratch.
#30
RE: Almost Wrecked my Stang HELP
If you don't know enough to safely remove a battery lead on your car, you should just leave the hood closed and never open it.
Positive, or negative, it doesn't matter. Just remove 1 and make sure it doesn't touch any other part of the car or battery while removed. I won't go any further in detail because it'll probably confuse you.
as for the K&N...maybe it is flowing enough air, that the PCM needs to reset to relearn it's "normal" parameters with the new higher air flow. doubtful, but maybe. sounds more likely you have a bigger issue.
I can't help it. Never remove the Negative first. Your positive is still hooked up. That means if you accidently ground that cable against your frame or body of the car, you're going to get shocked, and your car might get some sensitive electrical piece fried.
Positive, or negative, it doesn't matter. Just remove 1 and make sure it doesn't touch any other part of the car or battery while removed. I won't go any further in detail because it'll probably confuse you.
as for the K&N...maybe it is flowing enough air, that the PCM needs to reset to relearn it's "normal" parameters with the new higher air flow. doubtful, but maybe. sounds more likely you have a bigger issue.
I can't help it. Never remove the Negative first. Your positive is still hooked up. That means if you accidently ground that cable against your frame or body of the car, you're going to get shocked, and your car might get some sensitive electrical piece fried.