Motor popped
06-17-2007, 08:45 PM
#21
4th Gear Member
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Join Date: Apr 2006
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Posts: 1,409
RE: Motor popped
Well last weekend I threw a belt and the car overheated so I am sure that had something to do with it. The tune was good and safe and the car actually ran fine all the way to my uncles house but I know the motor is done.
06-17-2007, 10:21 PM
#23
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
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Posts: 267
RE: Motor popped
ORIGINAL: Frostbitten
+1
Yea but if you blow your shortblock it may happen at a bad time .Then you have downtime on your car that you did not plan on . And if your car is a dd then it isn't anymore . And what if you spent all your money on the blower then ruin your shortblock then you have to save more money to buy a shortblock and more time to install when you should have replaced the shortblock first so you could plan on making arrangements on using another vehicle in the meanwhile . You can take chances like you are and I notice many people do , but I learned the hard way because I did it too . I guarantee this that your car will take a big **** one day then you will be telling people not to supercharge first but forge then supercharge . Good luck and I mean that because it sucks to blow a motor .
ORIGINAL: 2000GT4.6
There isn't any reason to forge your shortblock first and then go FI. All you are doing is wasting piles and piles of money on something that does absolutly nothing for you at the time. Getting the blower first, even if you have a DD and need to be really careful (say 8 PSI and no more than 390 WHP) you still enjoy all that power while saving money for the shortblock. IF you pop a motor at 8 PSI or less than 390 either your tune sucks or something else went wrong (or you had a defect in the motor from factory).
There isn't any reason to forge your shortblock first and then go FI. All you are doing is wasting piles and piles of money on something that does absolutly nothing for you at the time. Getting the blower first, even if you have a DD and need to be really careful (say 8 PSI and no more than 390 WHP) you still enjoy all that power while saving money for the shortblock. IF you pop a motor at 8 PSI or less than 390 either your tune sucks or something else went wrong (or you had a defect in the motor from factory).
Yea but if you blow your shortblock it may happen at a bad time .Then you have downtime on your car that you did not plan on . And if your car is a dd then it isn't anymore . And what if you spent all your money on the blower then ruin your shortblock then you have to save more money to buy a shortblock and more time to install when you should have replaced the shortblock first so you could plan on making arrangements on using another vehicle in the meanwhile . You can take chances like you are and I notice many people do , but I learned the hard way because I did it too . I guarantee this that your car will take a big **** one day then you will be telling people not to supercharge first but forge then supercharge . Good luck and I mean that because it sucks to blow a motor .
06-17-2007, 10:33 PM
#24
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: United States
Posts: 12,575
RE: Motor popped
The car has seen a HARD life since I have had the blower on, and I am running probably one of the most potentially dagerous setups (non intercooled, and cammed so making lots of power for a non I/C car).
I have banged the limter more times than I can count, launched it hard, and seen 7500+ RPM twice on screwed shifts, driven it/raced it in 100+ degree weather (once again no i/c)... and had no issues.
I can guarentee you that 99.999 percent of blown 2v cars are resulting from crap tunes or something else going wrong (like the injector etc, which a shortblock would not help)and not the the power level. There have been LOTS of people making 400+ on stock blocks for years. Hell, there are lots of people on here that have or are doing it.
The key to having it live is the tune. I have the a/f ratio running at max 11.50-11.60, very safe (and rich) for the power level I am running. I can definatly see having big issues running 400+ on the stocker with 11.90 or 12.00 a/f ratios, but if your tune is on and your car is soild, its not going to pop the motor any sooner than it would without the FI.
I would never recommend going with an aftermarket shortblock before going FI. Your talking a bare minimum 2000 dollar expense (and more like 3-4K) and the car is going to run like **** on a low comrpession aftermarket shortblock you would want for a FI setup. Unless your talking about doing the block and then going FI a month or two later, its just not worth it (and if you can afford that, why not do it all at once).
FI is perfectly fine on a stock shortblock, just don't get greedy and don't run a close to deadly (close to 12.00+:1) a/f ratio. That, and make triple sure your tuner has set the tune to pull timing as IAT rises.
I have banged the limter more times than I can count, launched it hard, and seen 7500+ RPM twice on screwed shifts, driven it/raced it in 100+ degree weather (once again no i/c)... and had no issues.
I can guarentee you that 99.999 percent of blown 2v cars are resulting from crap tunes or something else going wrong (like the injector etc, which a shortblock would not help)and not the the power level. There have been LOTS of people making 400+ on stock blocks for years. Hell, there are lots of people on here that have or are doing it.
The key to having it live is the tune. I have the a/f ratio running at max 11.50-11.60, very safe (and rich) for the power level I am running. I can definatly see having big issues running 400+ on the stocker with 11.90 or 12.00 a/f ratios, but if your tune is on and your car is soild, its not going to pop the motor any sooner than it would without the FI.
I would never recommend going with an aftermarket shortblock before going FI. Your talking a bare minimum 2000 dollar expense (and more like 3-4K) and the car is going to run like **** on a low comrpession aftermarket shortblock you would want for a FI setup. Unless your talking about doing the block and then going FI a month or two later, its just not worth it (and if you can afford that, why not do it all at once).
FI is perfectly fine on a stock shortblock, just don't get greedy and don't run a close to deadly (close to 12.00+:1) a/f ratio. That, and make triple sure your tuner has set the tune to pull timing as IAT rises.
06-17-2007, 11:49 PM
#25
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,191
RE: Motor popped
2000GT4.6... do you not have a rev limiter set with your tune? I know its awfully easy to miss a shift and over rev the car.
I would be interested to see what kind of timing and a/f ratio your car was set at ASUSMC. This could be a telltale on why or if you motor popped on you.
I would be interested to see what kind of timing and a/f ratio your car was set at ASUSMC. This could be a telltale on why or if you motor popped on you.
06-18-2007, 01:15 AM
#27
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Join Date: Apr 2006
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RE: Motor popped
15 degrees with an 11.76 A/F at 6k rpm. Pulled the valve covers off tonight as well as yanked the plugs. Number one plug (driver side front) had obviously been hit by something cause there was no gap at all and the electrode was sitting on the part that actually sparks. Ran a compression test on that cylinder and it was 110ish so thats good to go. The timing chain was a little loose on the bottom so I'm thinking that the chain might have just jumped a link and messed up the timing. Won't know for sure until I get more done to the motor.
06-18-2007, 04:59 PM
#29
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RE: Motor popped
I knew the car was detonating a little bit. It was a combo of crap summer gas and 100+ degree temps. At this point if the motor is ok and it just jumped timing I will spend the money to get it fixed and save for a new block. If the motor is done I have 3 options then I just have to decide which is the best option for me.
Option 1. Take out a loan, dig myself a little more into debt, and buy a built motor.
Option 2. Buy a stock motor and swap it in, put the blower on, run a more conservative tune, save for a shortblock
Option 3. Buy a stock motor, return the car to as close to stock as possible and trade that bish in.
Option 1. Take out a loan, dig myself a little more into debt, and buy a built motor.
Option 2. Buy a stock motor and swap it in, put the blower on, run a more conservative tune, save for a shortblock
Option 3. Buy a stock motor, return the car to as close to stock as possible and trade that bish in.
