ORIGINAL: Novanutcase

Hello 'Stang Fans!

I just bought an '03 Mustang GT/4.6L with 10,000 miles on the clock and I want to turn it into a 60% Road Race/40% Street car! I've been lurking for a while trying to do my homework and searching for threads that already discuss this so after having read them here is my plan:



1st phase - Tokico D-Specs
Steeda Comp Springs
Steeda PHB and PHB Brace
Steeda Rear Anti-Roll Bar(Not sure what size but I'm thinking 22mm!)

Not sure what I should do after this! Any suggestions?

John

ORIGINAL: ponysnake99

fixedand nice car...see its already got some lighter seats!

But to your original question, keep in mind thatchassis stiffening, stoppingand weight-loss are probably your biggest allies. Chassis stiffening such as subframe connectors (MM, Griggs racing, Steeda), a roll cage (4-6 points would be fine), and strut/shock braces help with cornering. For brakes, ss lines help, the cobra brake upgradewould do finebefore you dish out big bucks for a 4-6 piston kit...but they're good too. You don't need cross-drilled/slotted rotors, only slotted will do, remember this when it comes to rotors: bigger is better, and surface area matters. Weight-loss is only as crazy as you wanna take it. A tubular k-member (mm, griggs racing) would be your best improvement, but a/c, backseats, trunk parts, body panels, dashboards, abs systems...the list continues and is only limited by what you want/don't want.

If you need company/product ideas feel free to pm me, im in the process of building a 100% road racer! please read this before you finalize your decission on a phb (not that there is anything wrong with it!) http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_suspension.htm

ORIGINAL: Novanutcase
Thanks for fixing the link! What was wrong with it?
You used [IMG] instead of [img], [img] is used in post and [IMG] is used in signatures
I already yanked the interior and , yes, those are corbeau seats! Much better than stock! I was getting thrown from one side of the car to the other when I drove it with the stock interior in it! The car is pretty new since it only has 10,000 miles on the clock so the brakes, so far, are working OK! I'm sure at some point, probably in the next session or two, I'll burn them up but for now they seem to be OK!
I've driven the car around the track and here are my first impressions and why I was thinking of doing the above mentioned mods:

Car has WAAAAYY to much understeer!

Solution: Adjustable rear sway bar <- it will help some, the main problem is in the front suspension geometry/weight bias, if you get serious, you'll need to get rid of the modified macpherson system in favor of a coil-over or SLA system.

Car wallows over like a stuck pig on turn!

Solution: Steeda Comp Springs and Tokico D-specs <- very good choice for a budget racer

Car feels sloppy and dull as I enter turn and through exit transition from turn to straight!

Solution: Panhard bar for better axle location <- David_K, a professional racer on this site uses a watts link, and a panhard is a great starting point

I've read that by installing the springs my ride height will change around 1 1/4" which will change the pinion angle and that I should change out the LCA to an adjustable one so that I can readjust it to correct the pinion angle. Is this correct?
To some degree, I do not see a 1.25" drop affecting pinion angle in the way you say it is. Pinion angle is affected because it is in referece to vehicle height, but keep in mind the front of the car is coming down to so it balances out with the driveshaft angle. Since both sides of the car come down 1.25" then the pinion angle stays relative to the driveshaft angle and you don't get any bind. But a pinion angle closer to 0* will always transfer more power...maybe if you modify the engine and tranny mounts *cough cough* I'm no suspension expert, and would love to see the article that you got this information from...maybe i'm missing something. Adjustible LCA's can't hurt though right?
John