handyandy

So a while back I bought some MIL's. I know you're supposed to install them when the pipe goes on, but I couldn't wait because I got the pipe before I got the MIL's. So I put on the pipe before I put on the MIL's. The light came on. To make a long story short I figured out that one of my purchased, used, MIL's was broken. So I just bought some brand new MIL's that aren't used. To make sure they work properly how should I go about installing them?
Should I take off the old/bad ones and put on the new ones then go have my codes cleared? Or should I have the codes cleared first then install the new ones? Any particular order I need to go about doing this? Thanks all.

catch_15

I did the same thing, and when I installed mine, the light went off. If you want to reset everything, my friend is a ford tech and he said on most newer cars to drain the service charge disconnect the battery and turn the headlights on for 10 minutes.

handyandy

I see, thanks. So should I take the old ones off right now and put the new ones on, then drive to AutoZone and have them clear the codes?? Or should I disconnect my battery first, then put the new ones on, then reconnect the battery?? I dont quite understand.

catch_15

You could disconnect your battery while you're installing them and then reconnect it and drive it for a while. It took a little while for my light to go off, but it did, and I haven't had any problems since. But if it doesn't go off, then take it to autozone and clear it.

cliffyk

On our cars (with the Ford EEC-V electronics), disconnecting the battery will not clear diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) All it does, if disconnected for 5 minutes or more, is clear the KAM--the Keep Alive Memory which is a "scratch-pad" of sorts for the PCM (it holds fuel and idle trim values, etc.).[/align][/align]If the MIL eliminators are good, and will work at all with your car (some of the newer computers have more sophisticated methods of monitoring the rear sensors--see the link below), then the SES light may clear in 100 to 200 miles or so; maybe even sooner. However a trip to AZ to have them clear the code (they will not clear codes here in NE Florida), after installing the new MIL eliminators, will be faster...[/align][/align]More about MIL eliminators here...[/align]

handyandy

Thanks for the info. How does this sound: I'm going to disconnect the battery, take out my old ones, put in the new ones, then i know the code will still be on so I'm gonna go to autozone and have my friend clear the code for me...... do you think it will keep the code off after that? It shouldn't come back on if I do that right?

ShadowDrake

Whether it just clears the keep-alive memory or not, a friend of mine has MILs (or did, custom exhaust shop didn't leave bungs for the rear O2 sensors so they're just tied up there), leaving the battery unplugged while we made MILs did cause the code to go away, however it just came back within 15 minutes or so of driving. Later, after the light came on, disconnecting the battery for a few minutes again caused the CEL to go away, and yet again it came back after a while. MILs do nothing if the O2 sensors aren't in the exhaust to get warm [8D]

So, either way, disconnecting the battery for a while will cause the CEL to go away, but if the problem still exists, it will simply come right back on in short order.

handyandy

Don't mean to sound pushy or anything, but I just wanna get this little problem solved. Do you guys think what I'm gonna do will solve the problem or no? Seems like my question really isn't getting answered.

cliffyk

MIL eliminators are a kludge, they used to work like a charm back when the computers in cars were a bit dumber than they are now and all they looked for was a lower voltage and out of phase signal from the rear sensors. The newer ECUs also check for a differing switching frequency from the rear sensors--plain ol' resistor/capacitor MIL eliminators cannot change the switching frequency and may not fool the computer.[/align][/align]They did not work reliably on my '03 GT--the SES light would stay off for sometimes 200-300 miles, and then sometimes for only75 miles. The real solution is to get a tune or tuner and shut off the rear sensors.[/align][/align]As for your immediate situation, install the new MIL eliminators, and get the code reset (or just buy a scan tool that can reset the codes,you can get one for$50 or less)--if the SES lamp comes on again then reset it again and save up for a handheld tuner so you can shut those puppies off...[/align][/align]

handyandy

thanks, they better work[:@]

I have an 01, so maybe my computer is dumber than your 03.