Multiple little problems(mostly electrical)
10-04-2007, 08:42 PM
#1
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 541
Multiple little problems(mostly electrical)
Alright everyone, first I would like to say I am glad I found this site and plan to make my first post a good one lol.
A breif run down is this. I bought a heavily modified 1997 GT convertable from a person who was referred to me as a big time mustang enthusiast and a guy who wouldn't let any work be done by someone less than knowledgeable. Well, although the guy seemed to be a nice guy and know a lot about what he was talking about, I almost feel like some of these problems he HAD to know about. Shame on me for not going over it and testing every single little thing, I know and I take full responsibility for that. The guy actualy came down in price easily when I pointed out the little flukes I found before purchasing this car though.
Quick list of the problems:
-No Temp gauges work. He said the reason the temp gauge in the stock cluster doesn't work is because of the aftermarket intake manifold on the car. He got into some details about the 97 mani having 2 bungs for senders or something, and the newer PI one having only one.
He also said that the aftermarket temp gauge might not work because of a faulty sensor or wiring. (now i do wonders with wiring and electrical work, so i am definately rewiring it tomorrow before i deal with buying more parts).
-Coincidentaly the car doesn't have a working temp gauge AND after running it for about 10-15 minutes to get to my mechanics garage, it overheated... hmmm... but he did not know about an overheating issue, along with the temp gauge not working when I purchased it. It COULD be a coincidence but my common sense says it is not. We replaced a stuck thermostat and are waiting for a new fan.
-Details on the fan issue: The fan wasn't kicking on. I called him and he swore that was never a problem when he owned it. I found a blown fuse. Replaced it and the new fuse blew almost as soon as the fan came on. My mechanic said it most likely could be that the old stock fan motor is just getting worn badly and is putting more strain on the circuit than before. We will find out for sure when the new fan goes in tomorrow morning.
-Interior gauge lights do not work, nor do the tail lights, but headlights do. Mechanic(who is a stang nut also, so im going to trust him until you guys tell me otherwise on his advice lol), said that the gauge lights and tail lights are on the same circuit, but headlights are not, so it could be a fuse(will check tomorrow for sure).
-He has an A/C delete and the heater core bypassed. Now, if the heater core was clogged or leaking, I would say he took the easy route and just bypassed it because this was his weekend car for the nice sunny days... BUT, I'm thinking that if nothing is wrong with the heater core, and he bypassed it, somewhere he got the idea it would provide more power, or better cooling, someone please chime in here.
-Blinkers also do not work, I will be checking fuses as I mentioned.
-Just incase, does anyone have a wiring diagram for the dash light circuit and tail light circuit? Or the one for both, if that is in fact how they're wired.
So there is nothing short or quick about this, but I realy hope someone with some more knowledge than I have could chime in here. I think he overlooked the lighting issues because this was a daytime/track car for the summer so things lighting up weren't as big of a concern to him as putting down lots of power and stiffening the chassis seemed to be.
I appreciate anyones help and realy congratulate anyone who reads this long winded first post!!
-Dustin
A breif run down is this. I bought a heavily modified 1997 GT convertable from a person who was referred to me as a big time mustang enthusiast and a guy who wouldn't let any work be done by someone less than knowledgeable. Well, although the guy seemed to be a nice guy and know a lot about what he was talking about, I almost feel like some of these problems he HAD to know about. Shame on me for not going over it and testing every single little thing, I know and I take full responsibility for that. The guy actualy came down in price easily when I pointed out the little flukes I found before purchasing this car though.
Quick list of the problems:
-No Temp gauges work. He said the reason the temp gauge in the stock cluster doesn't work is because of the aftermarket intake manifold on the car. He got into some details about the 97 mani having 2 bungs for senders or something, and the newer PI one having only one.
He also said that the aftermarket temp gauge might not work because of a faulty sensor or wiring. (now i do wonders with wiring and electrical work, so i am definately rewiring it tomorrow before i deal with buying more parts).
-Coincidentaly the car doesn't have a working temp gauge AND after running it for about 10-15 minutes to get to my mechanics garage, it overheated... hmmm... but he did not know about an overheating issue, along with the temp gauge not working when I purchased it. It COULD be a coincidence but my common sense says it is not. We replaced a stuck thermostat and are waiting for a new fan.
-Details on the fan issue: The fan wasn't kicking on. I called him and he swore that was never a problem when he owned it. I found a blown fuse. Replaced it and the new fuse blew almost as soon as the fan came on. My mechanic said it most likely could be that the old stock fan motor is just getting worn badly and is putting more strain on the circuit than before. We will find out for sure when the new fan goes in tomorrow morning.
-Interior gauge lights do not work, nor do the tail lights, but headlights do. Mechanic(who is a stang nut also, so im going to trust him until you guys tell me otherwise on his advice lol), said that the gauge lights and tail lights are on the same circuit, but headlights are not, so it could be a fuse(will check tomorrow for sure).
-He has an A/C delete and the heater core bypassed. Now, if the heater core was clogged or leaking, I would say he took the easy route and just bypassed it because this was his weekend car for the nice sunny days... BUT, I'm thinking that if nothing is wrong with the heater core, and he bypassed it, somewhere he got the idea it would provide more power, or better cooling, someone please chime in here.
-Blinkers also do not work, I will be checking fuses as I mentioned.
-Just incase, does anyone have a wiring diagram for the dash light circuit and tail light circuit? Or the one for both, if that is in fact how they're wired.
So there is nothing short or quick about this, but I realy hope someone with some more knowledge than I have could chime in here. I think he overlooked the lighting issues because this was a daytime/track car for the summer so things lighting up weren't as big of a concern to him as putting down lots of power and stiffening the chassis seemed to be.
I appreciate anyones help and realy congratulate anyone who reads this long winded first post!!
-Dustin
10-04-2007, 08:48 PM
#2
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: the flatlands
Posts: 3,456
RE: Multiple little problems(mostly electrical)
Get a Haynes or Chiltons and they will have wiring diagrams in there. How heavily modified is this thing? It better have a some kind of power adder putting 400+ to the wheels and in great shape for less than 6,000 for me to deal with these headaches.
10-04-2007, 09:08 PM
#3
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 541
RE: Multiple little problems(mostly electrical)
I get a full list of every single part that went into every single inch of the car tomorrow. Receipts for stuff, all the fun paper work. But I will do my best to list what is done to it that I know right off hand. (mind you a stang nut refered me to this car when i was looking for a good v8 rwd weekend toy and project, and he referred me here because he THOUGHT this car was in slightly better shape than it was mechanicaly and electricaly)....
VT 4.6 based Stroker.
Probe flat tops and i-beam rods.
Comp cams(i did know what grind, but forgot right off hand).
Long tube headers w/ 2.5 inch collectors and 2.5 inch X pipe into a couple feet of 2.5 inch pipe, flowmasters then dumped right after the mufflers (i have some stainless tail pipes that will be going on that i snagged for free off the stang nut that referred me to the car though).
Upgraded driveshaft, No details but I noticed it when I had the car in the air tonight.
Hotchkis rear suspension, no details, looks complete and rugged, I'm going to assume that the aftermarket rear suspension has something to do with why he dumped it instead of going over the axle and doing the full exhaust.
coilovers in the front, as well as front and rear sway bars.
subframe connectors, 3 points front strut tower bar.
tubular front control arms.
also appears to be some sort of stiffening brace welded in up front.(if u got an idea of the product im thinking of, link me soi can be sure).
17X9 245/45/17 up front
17x10 275/45/17 BFG D/Rs in rear.
4.10 rear gears (that will be promptly replaced by 3.73s)
Steeda Tri-Ax short throw shifter, tranny as far as I know has low miles on it.
Body has 78k, motor is said to have about 1500miles. interior is mint, top has a couple small tears, boot was included, exterior is normal and decent for a 10year old car.
I will also get the dyno sheet(s) off him. He claims over 530 to the wheels natural, and it also has a ZEX N2O kit in it that he claimed put him a hair under 600 on the dyno. I will get the details on that as well, I will assume for now, from the basic look of things that it is a dry kit that apparently is putting between 80 and 90 extra to the wheels.
I have been on a couple forums for a long time and people always seem real secretive about price, maybe because they don't want you to know how good of a deal, or how much they got ripped off. But in my case, I'm here giving it to you as it is, not hiding anything about the car I bought, and asking for as much help as possible... I paid $6,600.
VT 4.6 based Stroker.
Probe flat tops and i-beam rods.
Comp cams(i did know what grind, but forgot right off hand).
Long tube headers w/ 2.5 inch collectors and 2.5 inch X pipe into a couple feet of 2.5 inch pipe, flowmasters then dumped right after the mufflers (i have some stainless tail pipes that will be going on that i snagged for free off the stang nut that referred me to the car though).
Upgraded driveshaft, No details but I noticed it when I had the car in the air tonight.
Hotchkis rear suspension, no details, looks complete and rugged, I'm going to assume that the aftermarket rear suspension has something to do with why he dumped it instead of going over the axle and doing the full exhaust.
coilovers in the front, as well as front and rear sway bars.
subframe connectors, 3 points front strut tower bar.
tubular front control arms.
also appears to be some sort of stiffening brace welded in up front.(if u got an idea of the product im thinking of, link me soi can be sure).
17X9 245/45/17 up front
17x10 275/45/17 BFG D/Rs in rear.
4.10 rear gears (that will be promptly replaced by 3.73s)
Steeda Tri-Ax short throw shifter, tranny as far as I know has low miles on it.
Body has 78k, motor is said to have about 1500miles. interior is mint, top has a couple small tears, boot was included, exterior is normal and decent for a 10year old car.
I will also get the dyno sheet(s) off him. He claims over 530 to the wheels natural, and it also has a ZEX N2O kit in it that he claimed put him a hair under 600 on the dyno. I will get the details on that as well, I will assume for now, from the basic look of things that it is a dry kit that apparently is putting between 80 and 90 extra to the wheels.
I have been on a couple forums for a long time and people always seem real secretive about price, maybe because they don't want you to know how good of a deal, or how much they got ripped off. But in my case, I'm here giving it to you as it is, not hiding anything about the car I bought, and asking for as much help as possible... I paid $6,600.
10-04-2007, 10:42 PM
#4
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: the flatlands
Posts: 3,456
RE: Multiple little problems(mostly electrical)
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...52065_-1_10441
Thats a k-member, its the only thing I can think of for that welded piece up front you described. I am very weary of those dyno numbers. I can maybe see 425ish if it has 4V heads. I do not see 530 to the wheels in any which way shape or form from a naturally aspirated 2V, the heads just cant flow that good. Anyone can doctor up numbers on a dyno sheets, so for your own sake, go get it dynoed ASAP to make sure what you have. And if are putting that much power down, I want that exact miracle motor, or at least the heads that can flow that much. I am not calling you a liar, just stating that its highly unlikly that those numbers he told you are accurate. I could easily see those numbers with the built motor you have and a big shot of juice though.
On this forum most people are real, theyll tell you what they paid and say he I got a deal, or crap I got screwed, or at least as far as I have noticed.
You did get a hell of a deal though, 6600 it not bad for what you have listed so far so congrats! and Welcome!
Thats a k-member, its the only thing I can think of for that welded piece up front you described. I am very weary of those dyno numbers. I can maybe see 425ish if it has 4V heads. I do not see 530 to the wheels in any which way shape or form from a naturally aspirated 2V, the heads just cant flow that good. Anyone can doctor up numbers on a dyno sheets, so for your own sake, go get it dynoed ASAP to make sure what you have. And if are putting that much power down, I want that exact miracle motor, or at least the heads that can flow that much. I am not calling you a liar, just stating that its highly unlikly that those numbers he told you are accurate. I could easily see those numbers with the built motor you have and a big shot of juice though.
On this forum most people are real, theyll tell you what they paid and say he I got a deal, or crap I got screwed, or at least as far as I have noticed.
You did get a hell of a deal though, 6600 it not bad for what you have listed so far so congrats! and Welcome!
10-04-2007, 11:31 PM
#5
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 541
RE: Multiple little problems(mostly electrical)
thanks man. I appreciate the info and insight. We shall see about the dyno numbers. Now, I am on the road for long periods of time (up to 3 months, usualy 1 month at a time, with about 3-7 days off between), so this wont get driven... or worked on
a whole lot. But i plan to knock out any fuse or electrical problems this weekend. HOPEFULLY all tomorrow. That K-member looks familiar, but ill take pics of the spot im talking about tomorrow in the garage if i remember, while its in the air. Im thinking of putting those tail pipes right on tomorrow while im doing all the work.
I hope to collect a little more info on each of the problems I listed though, that's for sure. I am 99% sure that I will fix the interior/tail light issue easily, as well as the temp gauge. He has an aftermarket temp gauge in there, I'm pretty sure it is simple wiring stuff.
Im going to drill him about the heatercore bypass. It bugs me a bit that he did that. Like I said before, it was either because he was told it will cool better or give more power.... or his heater core was toast and that was his quick and lazy fix because he didnt use it in the winter anyway(and i probably wont either, so it might not be an issue, but it is cooling down up here this time of year...)
a whole lot. But i plan to knock out any fuse or electrical problems this weekend. HOPEFULLY all tomorrow. That K-member looks familiar, but ill take pics of the spot im talking about tomorrow in the garage if i remember, while its in the air. Im thinking of putting those tail pipes right on tomorrow while im doing all the work.I hope to collect a little more info on each of the problems I listed though, that's for sure. I am 99% sure that I will fix the interior/tail light issue easily, as well as the temp gauge. He has an aftermarket temp gauge in there, I'm pretty sure it is simple wiring stuff.
Im going to drill him about the heatercore bypass. It bugs me a bit that he did that. Like I said before, it was either because he was told it will cool better or give more power.... or his heater core was toast and that was his quick and lazy fix because he didnt use it in the winter anyway(and i probably wont either, so it might not be an issue, but it is cooling down up here this time of year...)
10-04-2007, 11:41 PM
#10
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: the flatlands
Posts: 3,456
RE: Multiple little problems(mostly electrical)
also you may want to hook the line up from the driver side pcv valve back to the intake tube. He has a plug on the intake tube and a breather filter on the PCV, thats unmeasured air getting into your motor, unless he has some kind of tune for that, idk