timing help
ORIGINAL: oxfordgt
You don't need to waste money on that pos manual. In the thread I wrote it has all the torque specs and tighting sequenses you will need which is the only reason you buy a manual. You can do it the way sweet99 said but it is more pain staking and if the cams move you will have to pull all of the followers out inorder to turn the cam. With the crank key at 12 oclock, which is safe mode for the engine, All pistons are far enough below deck that you can spin the cams with the followers in with no risk of hitting the valves. At TDC minus 45* which is BDC the pistons are below deck but not far enough to spin the cams. And both of those are marked on the timing cover.
If you are just changing the guides and tentionsioners then just use a paint marker and mark the chains where they line up on the dots on the 4 sprokets. Once you get in there you will see how easy it all is. My best advice to you is to put that engine at 12oclock because if you mess up you dont want to have to buy that $80 ford spring tool or remove the cams.
You don't need to waste money on that pos manual. In the thread I wrote it has all the torque specs and tighting sequenses you will need which is the only reason you buy a manual. You can do it the way sweet99 said but it is more pain staking and if the cams move you will have to pull all of the followers out inorder to turn the cam. With the crank key at 12 oclock, which is safe mode for the engine, All pistons are far enough below deck that you can spin the cams with the followers in with no risk of hitting the valves. At TDC minus 45* which is BDC the pistons are below deck but not far enough to spin the cams. And both of those are marked on the timing cover.
If you are just changing the guides and tentionsioners then just use a paint marker and mark the chains where they line up on the dots on the 4 sprokets. Once you get in there you will see how easy it all is. My best advice to you is to put that engine at 12oclock because if you mess up you dont want to have to buy that $80 ford spring tool or remove the cams.
ORIGINAL: sxynerd
+1 A manual should only be good for Tq specs on "stock" bolts. (not arp's) And good reading material for the Bathroom or long a$s deployments.
ORIGINAL: oxfordgt
You don't need to waste money on that pos manual. In the thread I wrote it has all the torque specs and tighting sequenses you will need which is the only reason you buy a manual. You can do it the way sweet99 said but it is more pain staking and if the cams move you will have to pull all of the followers out inorder to turn the cam. With the crank key at 12 oclock, which is safe mode for the engine, All pistons are far enough below deck that you can spin the cams with the followers in with no risk of hitting the valves. At TDC minus 45* which is BDC the pistons are below deck but not far enough to spin the cams. And both of those are marked on the timing cover.
If you are just changing the guides and tentionsioners then just use a paint marker and mark the chains where they line up on the dots on the 4 sprokets. Once you get in there you will see how easy it all is. My best advice to you is to put that engine at 12oclock because if you mess up you dont want to have to buy that $80 ford spring tool or remove the cams.
You don't need to waste money on that pos manual. In the thread I wrote it has all the torque specs and tighting sequenses you will need which is the only reason you buy a manual. You can do it the way sweet99 said but it is more pain staking and if the cams move you will have to pull all of the followers out inorder to turn the cam. With the crank key at 12 oclock, which is safe mode for the engine, All pistons are far enough below deck that you can spin the cams with the followers in with no risk of hitting the valves. At TDC minus 45* which is BDC the pistons are below deck but not far enough to spin the cams. And both of those are marked on the timing cover.
If you are just changing the guides and tentionsioners then just use a paint marker and mark the chains where they line up on the dots on the 4 sprokets. Once you get in there you will see how easy it all is. My best advice to you is to put that engine at 12oclock because if you mess up you dont want to have to buy that $80 ford spring tool or remove the cams.
oh yea since i did my own heads and cams ill tell u wat i know about the timing..when u place the crank in the 12o'clock position make sure while ur spinning the crank that u make sure ur cam gear dot is 90 degrees to the head so that the cylinder #1 doesnt bend ur valves...i got a good link for u, in this link they show it pretty detailed if u got any question pm me.. i also got the manual it helps too http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...ot2V/index.php
thanks for all the help guys! i ordered my parts and they wont be here until monday because of thanksgiving
stupid turkeys ruined my weekend lol...we will be tearing into the car a little bit at a time next week or dive right in the weekend after this one...ill keep yall updated on how it goes!
stupid turkeys ruined my weekend lol...we will be tearing into the car a little bit at a time next week or dive right in the weekend after this one...ill keep yall updated on how it goes!
It should be fun. I shouldnt take no more than a day for you to get it done. When we pulled the head off of my buddys lightning to get it helicoiled it took us 8 hours from start to finish. If we could pull the head (which is only like 3 more steps then what your doing) off a Lightning in that time you should have no problem with a mustang.
Yeah listen to Ox, he's helped me out a lot. I took my heads off to get reconditioned last spring and he helped me threw it. I timed the car myself no problem and it started first try.
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