Cornbread01

well i looked under my hood to day cuz i had a funny smell that ended up being my belt melting away.... went to find out why and found that my crank pully is two pieces and is comming apart the only thing that kept it on was the oil drain line for the sc.... any one else had this happen and is there an upgraded 1 peice crank pully i can by... and just to state there is no u/d pullies on the car. so it is not a piggy back bos.... HEEEEELLLLLLLPPPPPPPP MEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

Mark99GT

I think the innovators west pulleys are a one piece design, but theyre big $$$.

http://www.innovatorswest.com/

BraMas

This is a part you do not want to go cheap on especially with you being F/I. Look at something like an ATI superdampner. This is definitely an area where you get what you pay for. Just my .02

Mark99GT

Even more so for high rpm stuff, but yeah I agree with that. And ATI does make nice stuff too. Romac is supposed to be another good one.

OP: I was told by VTengines (before their bad rep) that the fluid dampers were junk, like the fluidampr. People threw in a bunch of "+1"s but never gave a reason for it. Just an fyi...

98SN95

Definitly go with some type of SFI approved damper. You wont regret it!

Cornbread01

is there a write up any where on how to replace the dampner and where is the flyweel inspection cover located.

Cornbread01

and could you help me with the right part number the guy and ati told me 918036 but it says its for a cobra motor. but the one that says its for the sohc motor dosent look like it is right????

BraMas

I'd call ATI back tomorrow and make sure. There chart is wrong it says that dampener is for 96 to 05 Cobra and we all no there is no such thing as an 05 Cobra[8D].
What are you trying to figure out with the flywheel. There really isn't a flywheel inspection cover on a t-45 ( I assume you have a T45 because I have no idea what year your car is). You can take the clutch fork cover off but it's still pretty hard to see the flywheel

Mark99GT

Are you looking to replace just the damper or the entire damper/pulley assembly? If its the latter, go to advanceautoparts or some place that loans out tools. Get the crank pulley removal tool (approx 95 dollar deposit) and use that. Looking at is is self explanatory. I don't know of a write up anywhere for it.

The real important part is putting the new damper on correctly. Its an extremely tight fit, you can't just slide it on by hand. There is a specific tool that looks like a long bolt for this; Im not sure if you can rent it.

Anyways, you mount the damper on the crankshaft snout and screw the tool into the crankshaft threads.The tool is longer than your crank pully bolt, so it grabs more threads inside the crankshaft before it makes contact with the pulley and pulls it(as you turn the tool) onto the crankshaft. You don't want to do this with the stock bolt because it is barely long enough to grab the first couple threads inside the crankshaft (which is why Steeda UDPs ship with a longer bolt). If you can even get them, you'll more than likely strip them out trying to use the bolt to slide the pulley back on because its such a tight fit. Too few threads grabbing the bolt won't be strong enought to handle the force of the bolt pulling on them as its screwed in and you'll tear them right out. Then you're in big trouble...

+1 on no flywheel inspection cover

EDIT: I did find a write up for you...replace the **** with mustangworld

http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/pull1.htm

Cornbread01

well i ordered a sfi harmonic balencer from mmr and i bought a removale and install tool so thats good... about the flywheel cover it says in the haynse manual to remove and shove a flat head in there to stop the crank from spinning while removing the bolt any suggestions on best way to stop the crank from spinning or should it not be a concern???