az00Convt

I installed a Pypes Mid-Pipe and now there is a pretty loud ticking noise, but only under acceleration. It seems like it is coming from the driver's side of the car but I can't verify since I can't hear the ticking when at idle, and if I hit the gas while in neutral it doesn't make the noise. I already tried to retighting the bolts from the mid-pipe to the exhaust manifold, but weren't loose at all. Any other suggestions? Is there a way to check for an exhaust leak besides the ticking noise?

josh.davis

if you know a good muffler shop, just take it to them and have them check it out. You might have tighten the bolt to tight. I did it to mine and it bentthe flangewere it wouldn't seal, so i had to get new clamps.also, they might just weld it.

Dan04COBRA

Did you use a new gasket?

pikuoff

I had a similar problem when I put my O/R Prochamber in. There was a ticking/banging sound coming from what seemed like down by my feet, but under the car. It did it when taking off from a stop and whenaccelerating while turning. I took it to the shop and they tightened the drivers side where the midpipe bolts to the manifold and it still made the noise. He looked at it again and determined that the factory studs were preventing a good tight seal. He took out the factory studs and put ones in that didn't have a "stopper" or what ever you might call it and bolted it up tight. I've had no issues since. The factory studs have this stopper-like part at the base of the studsby the manifold thatare about an inchup thestudthat caused my problem.

az00Convt

The driver's side is flanged and doesn't require a gasket. Does anyone with a Pypes Mid-Pipe experience this problem? I took it to an exhaust place and they didn't find a leak by the manifold, except for where it connected to the Cat-back. They fixed that but the ticking is still there. Would putting a gasket on the flange stop the leak if there is on there? I'll have to look into the "stopper" thing. I thought it bolted up pretty nicely.

pikuoff

I had no leaks when they hooked up a smoker to my exhaust system. Yet replacing those studs, which seemed tight, fixed my problem. The factory studs stop the midpipe from bolting all the way to the header for some reason.

Pest007

Maybe the nut is bottomed out on the bolt where the thread ends, might have to take it off and put some washers in there to actually draw the flang in to where it is tight.

pikuoff

That's what I thought too. Where the thread ends are these stoppers that extend from the manifold about an inch. The midpipe hits that and can't go any further/closer to the manifold. I tried to find a pic online but have been unsuccessful.

pikuoff

This is from BBK's website. It may explain it better than I can:

Q. My X-pipe won't seal on my Driver Side exhaust manifold on my 96-04 Mustang. Is this the right pipe? What's wrong?
(part numbers affected include: 1665, 1666, 1669, 1670)
A. The piping itself is correct. For whatever reason, some Mustang models leave the factory with a different style header stud on the Driver side, one that has a "shoulder" on it. This shoulder interferes with the flange, not allowing it to come up all the way and seal against the manifold. There are a couple of things that can be done to correct this. Both solutions require the removal of the factory-supplied studs. Once this has been accomplished, you can either A) replace them with a shoulderless-style stud, or B) simply use a nut-and-bolt setup. This should let the flange to come up further unobstructed, allowing the pipe to seal adequately on that side, providing a leak-free fit.