brake job gone bad - need help please
#12
RE: brake job gone bad - need help please
ORIGINAL: PaintballFreak
So I decided to replace my front rotors and front and rear brake pads myself, rather than pay a shop to do it. I'd never done this before so I pulled up a few online how-tos and went after it. I got the rotors and pads all on and bled the old fluid out of the cylinder through the brakes but I never let the cylinder get empty. It got about half empty then I started putting new fluid in it and kept bleeding till the fluid wasn't black anymore and until I got no air bubbles out of any of them. So the brake fluid is full and the rotors are all slightly loose (rock maybe a millimeter but I figured this would be taken care of when I put the wheels on which I haven't yet) and the calipers are all very snug on the rotors with the new pads. I thought this would be normal as well with brand new brake pads. It takes a significant amount of force to move the rotors but they do spin. I even put the car in gear while on jackstands to make sure they would spin. My problem is I have absolutely no brake pressure with the pedal. The pedal is really really light to push, way lighter than it was before. From what I can tell, the brakes do not react to pressure on the brake pedal. Could tell no difference in the time it took the rotors to stop spinning with or without putting pressure on the break pedal while the car was on jackstands. So what gives? What on earth did I do wrong? As I said I bled all the brakes and they all had constant fluid coming out with no air bubbles when I finished. My dad was working the pedal during this and during the first one we bled he mentioned the pedal losing all it's firmness but the fluid was still flowing. The brake fluid cylinder is still full and everything. I have no idea what I did.
Things I could think of - wrong type of brake fluid? I think I used Valvoline Synthetic or something. I just thought of that right now so maybe I need to go check the manual. That would be a ****ing dumbass thing to have done wrong if that ends up being the problem..
Maybe the fact that the calipers are all pretty tight on the rotors has something to do with the brakes not wanting to work but I didn't really think that as I can still turn the rotors by hand it just takes a lot of force. I assume if the brakes were working properly and engaged I WOULD NOT be able to turn the rotors so that shouldn't have aynthing to do with it.
I'm really at a loss and my next move is to have it towed to a shop in shame in the morning unless you guys know exactly what the problem is and exactly how to fix it. What a frustrating day.. thanks for the help..
JD
So I decided to replace my front rotors and front and rear brake pads myself, rather than pay a shop to do it. I'd never done this before so I pulled up a few online how-tos and went after it. I got the rotors and pads all on and bled the old fluid out of the cylinder through the brakes but I never let the cylinder get empty. It got about half empty then I started putting new fluid in it and kept bleeding till the fluid wasn't black anymore and until I got no air bubbles out of any of them. So the brake fluid is full and the rotors are all slightly loose (rock maybe a millimeter but I figured this would be taken care of when I put the wheels on which I haven't yet) and the calipers are all very snug on the rotors with the new pads. I thought this would be normal as well with brand new brake pads. It takes a significant amount of force to move the rotors but they do spin. I even put the car in gear while on jackstands to make sure they would spin. My problem is I have absolutely no brake pressure with the pedal. The pedal is really really light to push, way lighter than it was before. From what I can tell, the brakes do not react to pressure on the brake pedal. Could tell no difference in the time it took the rotors to stop spinning with or without putting pressure on the break pedal while the car was on jackstands. So what gives? What on earth did I do wrong? As I said I bled all the brakes and they all had constant fluid coming out with no air bubbles when I finished. My dad was working the pedal during this and during the first one we bled he mentioned the pedal losing all it's firmness but the fluid was still flowing. The brake fluid cylinder is still full and everything. I have no idea what I did.
Things I could think of - wrong type of brake fluid? I think I used Valvoline Synthetic or something. I just thought of that right now so maybe I need to go check the manual. That would be a ****ing dumbass thing to have done wrong if that ends up being the problem..
Maybe the fact that the calipers are all pretty tight on the rotors has something to do with the brakes not wanting to work but I didn't really think that as I can still turn the rotors by hand it just takes a lot of force. I assume if the brakes were working properly and engaged I WOULD NOT be able to turn the rotors so that shouldn't have aynthing to do with it.
I'm really at a loss and my next move is to have it towed to a shop in shame in the morning unless you guys know exactly what the problem is and exactly how to fix it. What a frustrating day.. thanks for the help..
JD
If you do it with a friend, have the friend pump the brake until the pedal is hard, have him/her continue pushing while you loosen the bleeder. When the pedal hits the floor, have them hold it on the floor while you tighten the bleeder. Repeat the process until no air comes out of the bleeder. Be sure to keep your master cylinder at least half full.
What DOT brake fluid did you use? Dot 3 and 4 can be mixed, Dot 5 is incompatible with 3 and 4 and should NOT be used in our cars.
#13
RE: brake job gone bad - need help please
well that did the trick! My last effort before I called the tow-truck was to try to bleed the master cylinder and as soon as I opened the valve and started pushing on the pedal, I felt the pressure start to come back. Just drove it around the block and it works great! I am pretty relieved to say the least and feel much better about the whole experience haha.
Thanks for all the help guys, woulda been out some extra cash and hurt my pride without ya!
Thanks for all the help guys, woulda been out some extra cash and hurt my pride without ya!
#16
RE: brake job gone bad - need help please
well it works fine but when I push the brakes to the floor and the car is stopped, the right rear caliper starts smoking and smells like burning ****. I only witnessed it from inside my car since I was driving to autozone when it happened but I checked it when I got there and could see no signs of fluid leaking. It wasn't a ton of smoke like a burnout - looked more like how the exhaust fumes appear on a cold morning but it was definitely coming from the right rear brake. SO, is this part of the break-in process or do I need to not put more pressure on the pedal than is needed? I definitely don't have to push the pedal that hard to make it stop but it didn't smoke when I pushed it all the way before I replaced the pads. Like I said they were pretty tight on the rotors when I put them on but I was sure I compressed the pistons as much as I could. I thought maybe it was just burning off some grease/cleaner that maybe got left on but the car wasn't moving so that doesnt make much sense.
#17
RE: brake job gone bad - need help please
No, it is not a normal break in process. You gotta problem with that back brake.
You need to look at that and see what is wrong and just hope you didn't smoke your new pads on that side and ruin them.
That hapened to us the last time we had the vans brakes fixed, the caliper hung up and smoked a set of new pads down to 1/4 use.
The least of your worries is you may have only smoked the set of pads on that rear brake, just hope the caliper didn't take a crap along with it like ours did.
Lynn
You need to look at that and see what is wrong and just hope you didn't smoke your new pads on that side and ruin them.
That hapened to us the last time we had the vans brakes fixed, the caliper hung up and smoked a set of new pads down to 1/4 use.
The least of your worries is you may have only smoked the set of pads on that rear brake, just hope the caliper didn't take a crap along with it like ours did.
Lynn
#20
RE: brake job gone bad - need help please
Why did you bleed your brakes in the first place? It's not neccessary unless you are replacing your calipers.
I just did my wifes brakes last night. I didn't have pressure either. I also had the little bit of play in the rotors you are talking about. All it is -is that your calipers haven't readjusted against the rotors yet from where you compressed them to get your new pads on. Get in your car, crank it up. Push the brake to the floor and hold it there for 5-8 seconds. Let up and do that over and over for at least 5 minutes. It worked for me last night and the pressure came back up.Just keep pumping them.
I just did my wifes brakes last night. I didn't have pressure either. I also had the little bit of play in the rotors you are talking about. All it is -is that your calipers haven't readjusted against the rotors yet from where you compressed them to get your new pads on. Get in your car, crank it up. Push the brake to the floor and hold it there for 5-8 seconds. Let up and do that over and over for at least 5 minutes. It worked for me last night and the pressure came back up.Just keep pumping them.