4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

im new and want advice from the veterans

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Old 01-11-2008, 07:26 AM
  #11  
MJH78
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On gears, now correct me if I'm wrong because this is coming from someone who doesn't even have aftermarket gears, but consider your tire and suspension setup first. if you're running a factory type tire you'll probably havea very hard time hooking up in 1st gear with 4.10 gears. its my understanding you really should upgrade some other things along with gears, otherwise you might just be putting yourself at a disadvantage in a stoplight type race situation, if that's your thing.
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Old 01-11-2008, 08:23 AM
  #12  
jmac72187
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ORIGINAL: MJH78

On gears, now correct me if I'm wrong because this is coming from someone who doesn't even have aftermarket gears, but consider your tire and suspension setup first. if you're running a factory type tire you'll probably havea very hard time hooking up in 1st gear with 4.10 gears. its my understanding you really should upgrade some other things along with gears, otherwise you might just be putting yourself at a disadvantage in a stoplight type race situation, if that's your thing.
+1

I did 4.10's in my GT and it killed my traction. It definitely pulled better when I could get grip, but that wasn't often.
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Old 01-11-2008, 11:10 AM
  #13  
aquaman720
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wow thats interesting so what do you suggest i do then? buy street legal drag radials??
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Old 01-11-2008, 08:24 PM
  #14  
PowerPonyPatrol
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Nitto Extreme Performance NT555R Drag Radials
http://www.steeda.com/products/nitto...5r_extreme.php

Choose your size and profile. These things have some grip, I know from experience.
You won't be disappointed.
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Old 01-12-2008, 10:44 AM
  #15  
aquaman720
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drag radials would be pretty cool thanks for the site. im deff going for the gears, chip and set of drag radials. it will be perfect for my next upgrade
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Old 01-12-2008, 02:19 PM
  #16  
califas_1987
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ORIGINAL: SINISTER

You can install gears yourself with no problem so long as you have half a brain, can turn a wrench and can read instructions. If you are serious about it, I'll get you the link to the instructions I used. I had never done gears before and I managed to do the install with no problems. You can use the MHD method to calculate pinion depth (so you don't need a pinion depth tool) and it works great.
Post the link.. PLEASE.

Ive been holding off on mods so I can save for a Mongoose kit, but gears have been soooo tempting. the only thing holding me up is that everybody says you cant do it yourself. I have 1/2 a brain, I can turn a wrench and read instructions[8D].I defenitely want 4.10's. I have an auto and can't hold the line when reving past 2K so launching at 2K I figure I shouldnt loose too much traction but just get at the powerband alot faster.
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Old 01-12-2008, 05:52 PM
  #17  
aquaman720
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i see. ya i also have an auto and ive heard the 4.10s were the best choice for the gears. but i gotta save up too[8D]
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Old 01-12-2008, 06:32 PM
  #18  
sfi
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Your goal is 12's, it's not going to happen just doing bolt on's. I spent over $3000 w/ bolt on's and a 3.73 gear and got 257.9 rwhp 290rwtq. Dissapointing. PLus, when I went SC, I couldn't use half the bolt on's I bought(waste of money).I should of planned it out. Id go 4.10 if you stay NA, but I doubt you'll see 12's w/ bolt on's . IM not into NOS either, whats the use if you can't use it all the time. Cams and heads are great for low 300's, but is that your goal.
If you go SC, Id go 3.73, . Im running a procharger /8 lbs of boost on 315's and will run 12.5-6's all day long. It cost me $5600, but well worth it on a stock engine. Reasonably priced if you want the best bang for your buck w/out rebuilding your engine.
If you want instant bang for your buck, go gears. Bolt on's don't do crap until you spend some loot on your engine.
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Old 01-12-2008, 10:04 PM
  #19  
racer02GTstang
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get headers or the gears.
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Old 01-12-2008, 11:02 PM
  #20  
01GT4.6
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IM not into NOS either, whats the use if you can't use it all the time. Cams and heads are great for low 300's, but is that your goal.
If you go SC, Id go 3.73, . Im running a procharger /8 lbs of boost on 315's and will run 12.5-6's all day long. It cost me $5600, but well worth it on a stock engine. Reasonably priced if you want the best bang for your buck w/out rebuilding your engine.
are you in boost all the time? If not then why worry about not using N2O all the time. The beauty of not using nitrous all the time is not having to run premium all the time.N2O is much cheaper than a $5600 charger and the torque that N2O gives is what will win the race.
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