Nitrous....help please
#11
RE: Nitrous....help please
as long as you car is in proper working order a 100 shot shouldn't be an issue (wet or dry). I don't know a whole lot about dry kits but I do know that some people spray before the MAF so the cold charge will "trick" the computer into making the injectors pump more fuel. This may or may not be true, that just what I've been told and to me the last thing I want to do is trick the computer in order to spary nitrous. On a wet kit you dray it doesctly from the fuel rail so the injectors spray the same NA as it does on spray. IMO a wet kit is more simple because you don't NEED to tune it, a dry kit will need to be tuned and you'll probably have to change injectors as well. I sprayed my stock motor for over 4 years on a NX 100 shot untuned on stock timing with ZERO issues and the car ran like an animal. I pulled the motor at 121k miles and it ran like new (if not better) at that time.
#12
RE: Nitrous....help please
Man, I have a like new NX plate kit here you can have it for $450+shipping. It is 2 months old. I have pictures if your interested. Kit includes 10lb bottle,ice man carbon fibersoleniods, stainless lines, fuel rail adaptor, nitrous plate, nitrous gauge, wiring, switches, etc. Kit is only 2 months old, and I only used a half a bottle through the kituntil I bought my procharger. This kit is in excellent condition.
You need to do some research, found this for you.
Wet kits are presumed to be the safest kits. This is because you do not have to rely on your maf and your injectors. If the maf does not pick up the extra air, the injectors will not put extra fuel into the mix and you will run really lean. (bad news). On the V6, the models made in 1998 and prior can use the dry kits safer than the models made in 1999 and after. The reason is, in 1999, Ford switched from a return style fuel system (where the excess fuel not burned is returned to the fuel tank) to a returnless style fuel system. On the pre99s, the fuel pressure regulator can be adjusted to increase the amount of fuel. And since the fuel is just returned, it’s not a huge deal. On the 99+s however, the returnless style makes the maf calculate the exact amount needed. The fuel pressure cannot be changed very easily and you need a very good dynotune to run a dry kit on a 99+. The wet systems can be run safer on both styles because the fuel is already mixed with the nitrous in the proper amount. This eliminates the worry about the maf and the injectors. However, the worry for the fuel pressure is higher than in the dry system. The fuel that is mixed with the nitrous in the fogger nozzle is taken from the fuel rail. If there is a solenoid leak (will discuss solenoids later), the fuel would be exiting thru there and your fuel pressure would drop. This is very rare and can be countered by either a Fuel Safety Cut-Off Switch or a fuel pressure gauge. This is why I prefer wet over dry.
You need to do some research, found this for you.
Wet kits are presumed to be the safest kits. This is because you do not have to rely on your maf and your injectors. If the maf does not pick up the extra air, the injectors will not put extra fuel into the mix and you will run really lean. (bad news). On the V6, the models made in 1998 and prior can use the dry kits safer than the models made in 1999 and after. The reason is, in 1999, Ford switched from a return style fuel system (where the excess fuel not burned is returned to the fuel tank) to a returnless style fuel system. On the pre99s, the fuel pressure regulator can be adjusted to increase the amount of fuel. And since the fuel is just returned, it’s not a huge deal. On the 99+s however, the returnless style makes the maf calculate the exact amount needed. The fuel pressure cannot be changed very easily and you need a very good dynotune to run a dry kit on a 99+. The wet systems can be run safer on both styles because the fuel is already mixed with the nitrous in the proper amount. This eliminates the worry about the maf and the injectors. However, the worry for the fuel pressure is higher than in the dry system. The fuel that is mixed with the nitrous in the fogger nozzle is taken from the fuel rail. If there is a solenoid leak (will discuss solenoids later), the fuel would be exiting thru there and your fuel pressure would drop. This is very rare and can be countered by either a Fuel Safety Cut-Off Switch or a fuel pressure gauge. This is why I prefer wet over dry.
#13
RE: Nitrous....help please
On a relatively stock motor (bolt ons), I recommend a dry kit. With a fully built motor, use a wet kit and spray the CRAP out of it. When I was a bolt on 01 GT, I ran the Holley NOS dry kit, with window switch, fuel pressure safety switch and WOT switch and sprayed a 125 shot with an occassional 150 shot for over 4 years with ZERO problems. I ran 1 step colder plugs. Good luck, you will become a nitrous junkie.
#14
RE: Nitrous....help please
thanks....and like i said ive already got 39lb injectors and a 90mm mass air from a cobra that my friend has...and i hope this works out i really dont want to blow anything up cuz that would really suck alot...if ya know what i mean..and im new to this stuff so i dont know what to do..the guy at lethal said dry was the safest for my car...but ive also read on here that wet is safer and now im not sure which way to go..
#16
RE: Nitrous....help please
im somewhat disappointed with my wet zex kit only bc of the power gains arent as good as nx..but its a excellent starter kit and all electronic thats why i went with it. You have people thatrun n20 w/o tunes and some that blew up the motor w/o so I would reccomned a tune no matter what, plus you dont wanna run on a nitrous all the time. 1 step colder plugs (ngktr6) and any other safety accessories are always good
Im not sure if you really needed to get 39lb injectors either
Im not sure if you really needed to get 39lb injectors either
#17
RE: Nitrous....help please
well the guy said 24lb would be fine but i got a set of 39lb for cheap so i took those instead...they basically brand new so yea and i am def going to get a tune with the zex kit so im all good with that
#18
RE: Nitrous....help please
i dont understand how some people say they are dissapointed with their kits. even if one lists their hp at the wheels then just use the jets listed for a rwhp shot on your kit. wet nitrous a/f tuning is done by the jets anyway.an NX nitrous kit and a NOS kit really in all reality arent that different. hell with the exception of zex, every kit is designed pretty much the same.
#19
RE: Nitrous....help please
ORIGINAL: 99black5spd
well the guy said 24lb would be fine but i got a set of 39lb for cheap so i took those instead...they basically brand new so yea and i am def going to get a tune with the zex kit so im all good with that
well the guy said 24lb would be fine but i got a set of 39lb for cheap so i took those instead...they basically brand new so yea and i am def going to get a tune with the zex kit so im all good with that
#20
RE: Nitrous....help please
if i would have known that they rated at the flywheel then i would have told my tuner to put in the 100 or 125 jet to compensate for the lost hp but i must have missed that info when i was searching..thats all and yea its partially my fault.