texas_stang02

a stall converter is probably only a couple hundred bucks (i don't know for sure cause i've never had to buy one for a Mustang). the thing about driving in town... when you take off from a red light, your engine will rev up to a higher rpm than it would have with the stock converter, so it may get annoying seeing your engine rev up to 3500 rpm every time you take off from a red light or stop sign. if you don't do a whole lot of stop and go then it won't be as much of an issue.

Stangatic

Stick with a 2500 - 2800 stall and you will not notice much (100-750rpms)of an rpm increase when taking off. converter is going to run you about$300-500 and you can buy a trans cooler for about $40.

AmericanRicer87

2500-2800 is what most of these guys go with on a car that sees the street alot

sstang

I'm going to go with a 3200 or so when I do it

texas_stang02

+1 almost forgot to mention that.. i'd always recommend a good trans cooler on an automatic, even with the stock torque converter. a higher stall will generate more heat so it's always a good idea to keep the fluid at a safe temperature.

radaman

3500-3600 for a definite improvement in street performance. Get a 2800 stall if you want to, but its a waste IMHO. Your peak torque is probably in the area of 4200-4400 rpms as it sits and a 3500-3600 will put u in the peak trq on launch and thats ideal in the real world. If u want to add a twinscrew to your car down the line then get the 2800, if your adding acentri or turbo you may want to get a converter that best stalls closer to 4000 rpms. Regardless, ur converter should be the last thing u build if u know for a fact that boost is in the cards, other than that a 3500 stall is the least amount u should go N/A. U will need DR's as well to get the car to hook up and maybe some up/lwr c arms as well. The more pwr u add, the harder it is to plant it all and it adds up when u do it right. Converters are a touchy subject and should be built per application and not some off the shelf one.

JD1969

You guys who are comparing your old cars without a lockup converter are giving poor advice in this thread. It's a totally new ball game with newer cars. BTW I run a 4000 Yank in my car and can take off pretty normal in it. To the OP,look into Precision Industries for a good converter, you will spend $6-800 but it's very worth it. TCI, B&M and the like are pretty much junk and a waist of money.

radaman

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texas_stang02

how so? does the lockup converter lock up as soon as you take off from a stand-still? i didn't say anything about my Chevelle at cruising speeds, only taking off from stop signs and red lights. i told the OP that if he didn't do a lot of stop and go, then it won't be as much of an issue.

JD1969

Because your leading people to think that theyare a close comparison, and they really are not.. No they don't lock up at just off idle (although it is possible to program the ECU to do it). Like I said my 4000 takes off pretty normal, unless you get in the gas really hard. I have owned plenty of old school and newer muscle cars, not to mention I have worked in the hot rod/performance car industry for years. These newer converters are a different animal. Do I reccomend a 4000 for a true daily driver? No, but I would not bother with anything less than a 3-3200 rpm unit, otherwise he will just want more down the road and will have waisted a bunch of $$. FWIW many companies will offer a free (one time), or low cost restall incase you change the setup or whatever.