4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

Drilled VS Slotted Rotors

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Old 03-17-2008, 03:30 PM
  #11  
01GTpony
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Default RE: Drilled VS Slotted Rotors

Ok then i guess im goin with slotted rotors if anything then. Thanx
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Old 03-17-2008, 07:28 PM
  #12  
Jbauer
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Default RE: Drilled VS Slotted Rotors

Theres alot of useful information here- this should be sticky.
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Old 03-17-2008, 07:32 PM
  #13  
WhiteFoxGT
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Default RE: Drilled VS Slotted Rotors

My slotted rotors grab HARD... they are starting to wear in now..

I do notice an assload of brake dust already, and its only been a day [>:]


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Old 03-17-2008, 07:34 PM
  #14  
tylerl90
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Default RE: Drilled VS Slotted Rotors

ORIGINAL: Jbauer

I know how this sounds..i really do- but my uncle is one of the engineers at Brembo. I asked him this same question- and i got more than i bargained for with a 1 hour conversation on brake rotors and pads...i'll tell you the rundown.

When you cross drill rotors- each hole is one less area the brake pad has to bite on- in short cross drilled rotors suck,will increase your stopping distance, and are useless because brakestoday don't even need the use ofdrilledrotors tovent. He told mefor serious braking, and best pedal feel stayaway from drilled. he also told medrilled rotors WILL crack in a severe raceenviroment and that with thedrilled rotors they sell- they warnon their site not to use it in a race application (maybe someone can also check this on their site)and he told me that even porsche admits- they do it only for looks.

Then on to drilled slotted. he said only a moron would run these..not only are you drilled losing braking surface, your slotted between the drills, and that there just as bad if not worse than drilled rotors.

He informed with any of the two above- he is absolutley certain no one feels a diffrence with drilled, and especially drilled/slotted unless there original rotors were worn- and that ppl with drilled rotors are suffering a LOSS not a gain and would recieve better performance from O.E than drilled.

For best braking, and a diffrence your most likely to feel- get slotted rotors. He told me he believed every car should come with slotted. The slots bite into the pad, causing friction, and the slots themselves also help remove any heat. he told me slotted rotors are the ONLY choice in rotors
and i believe him because he was important enough to be taken to Germany to work with other engineers. won't see me in any more drilled and especiallly not drilled slotted..thats that much less surface area to brake on.

Makes sense
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Old 03-17-2008, 08:00 PM
  #15  
tbirdscwd
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Default RE: Drilled VS Slotted Rotors

I was always told the main reason for slotted rotor is to vent the hot gas that is procuced by the friction between the pad and the rotor. If there isn't some sort of slot or avenue for the hot gases to escape, under really hard braking conditions your brake can produce enough gas and retain enough heat to reduce the friction capability of the pad. Also refered to a "Brake Fade."

Of course there is another form of brake fade being the boiling of the brake fluid, but thats a whole other story.

edit: sp
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Old 03-17-2008, 08:19 PM
  #16  
ATFPat
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Default RE: Drilled VS Slotted Rotors

damnit I already ordered up drill/slotted. Ohh well [:@]
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Old 03-17-2008, 09:43 PM
  #17  
Aereon
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Default RE: Drilled VS Slotted Rotors

ORIGINAL: tbirdscwd

I was always told the main reason for slotted rotor is to vent the hot gas that is procuced by the friction between the pad and the rotor. If there isn't some sort of slot or avenue for the hot gases to escape, under really hard braking conditions your brake can produce enough gas and retain enough heat to reduce the friction capability of the pad. Also refered to a "Brake Fade."

Of course there is another form of brake fade being the boiling of the brake fluid, but thats a whole other story.

edit: sp
Very few people run bio pads, and they were the reason why the cross drilled rotors were made to begin with. They were very prevalent in the older racing circuits until they started using ceramics. Now a days brake fade is due to the glazing effect. Glazing occurs when the brake pads are heated up and cooled too quickly, this will rarely happen to any of you since most mustang owners drag and very few are into corner carving. Slotted rotors are supposed to help with glazing and in theory it will work that way, but I have yet to see research proving a direct correlation. If your brake fluid is boiling your running the wrong dot # fluid, or your in the middle of the desert wailing on your brakes, I have been to a couple soloII events in an auto mustang gt, weight + transmission makes it so I have to be very hard on the brakes through the turns. The track is less than a mile long and contains up to 40 turns/slaloms, I have yet to have problems with dot 3 fluids.


And to be absolutely honest your really not gonna notice any difference between a blank and slotted rotor on the streets. I have driven both in a dd atmosphere(havent been able to talk my buddy into letting me try his gt in a soloII event lols) and I couldnt feel a difference in a variety of braking conditions, but then again I am not a robot so things like pedal pressure, when I stepped on the brakes, reaction time, and so on and so forth could change the outcome of my little experiment.

Brembo blanks from tire rack are what most autox stang guys use on the track, cheap to replace and pretty durable.
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Old 03-19-2008, 08:21 AM
  #18  
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Default RE: Drilled VS Slotted Rotors

As mentioned slotted rotors help eliminate pad gassing.

Drilled rotors also help eliminate pad gassing. The main reason I drill the heck out of the light weight directional vaned rotors I run on the oval track carsis to reduce rotating mass. I took a total of 5 lbs off the 4 rotors which equals faster acceleration & faster decelleration.
The rotors will glow red during a long race but have never failed/cracked etc. After drilling I finish the hole with a counter sink to put a small champher on it. This allows me to resurface the rotor taking .002 off on each pass.

For those of you running on the street with drilled rotors your good to go. The anti lock brake system will kick in long before you run out of stopping power.
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Old 03-19-2008, 03:47 PM
  #19  
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Default RE: Drilled VS Slotted Rotors

I agree that crossdrilling was always to reduce rotational mass. If that's not the case, why both cross drill and slot?

Rich
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Old 03-19-2008, 07:04 PM
  #20  
Jbauer
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Default RE: Drilled VS Slotted Rotors

yea- i agree with you churchkey.. you'll be ok with drilled on the street.However, on the streetyour hurting yourself with drilled.. you stop slower. And on the track, any profesional driver (and i've talkedto dozens) will tell you NEVER rundrilled rotors.

It doesnt matter if abs kicks in before you run out of stopping power, ABS will increase your stopping distance. it will hurt not help- you'll also lock the tires on a street car before any venting is needed.
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