4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

Which Supercharger to get?

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Old 05-22-2008, 02:55 PM
  #51  
jmsjags
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Default RE: Which Supercharger to get?

so if i got a d1sc kit for a basically stock car would that give the same hp as a p1sc would? i plan on going forged internals in the future but the car would have to be stock for a while until i can save up some money. would i be better off getting the p1sc now and trading it in for the d1sc in the future, or should i just go ahead and get the d1sc now?
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Old 05-22-2008, 03:36 PM
  #52  
pcs
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Default RE: Which Supercharger to get?

it would be cheaper just to get the d1sc now, but be aware that your engines life rests on your right foot. the d1sc builds boost alot faster than a p1sc. get a conservative tune with your stock engine, and make sure you have a fuel pressure gauge to let you know if you need to get off the go pedal if you start to run out of fuel before pop you engine.
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Old 05-23-2008, 02:20 AM
  #53  
Subotai_95
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Default RE: Which Supercharger to get?

ORIGINAL: Eagle2000GT

Both Procharger's andVortech's basic superchargers are capable of making more power than stock rods and pistons can hold. A P-1SC may have a maximum boost of 14 lbs. and the 42 lb injectors may only be good up to 480 rwhp but you have to be running a built engine to get anywhere near their limits.

True.. the only reason I'm running what I'm running right now is because the mach's have the same forged crank from the 03/04 termies, though the rods/rings are still cast. So it's a little bit of a juggle. Like PCS said though, the P-1's take a little longer to build boost, and I honestly wasn't that hard on it to begin with. Though on a 2V engine, yah, I'd say about 400 would be the safe limit on the stock internals. Depends on where you get your kit from, but some places, if you have a functional P-1 head unit that's in decent shape to turn in, you can get a huge discount on upgrading to a D-1 head unit. Only other thing with a D-1 is that, especially if you're going to eventually be making big boost, you'll definitely need the 60#r's if you go past about 550 or 575..

Jmsjags, all depends on how much of a lead foot you have though. It honestly is easier for it to be a DD with a P-1, especially if you've never driven a blown car before.. No offense intended brudda, it'd just be easier and safer for your engine that way broham.. And it'll save you money too. Just my .02
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