The squeaking was outer tie rods, not ball joints.

A muffler/brake shop quoted me at 90 dollars a pop, plus 80ish labor and alignment for about 90. Grand total of 350ish.

Aside from the alignment, how hard are outer tie rods to replace?

I went to autozone and they were 18 dollars a piece. Which comes to a savings of over 100 dollars in parts alone [>:][>:]

I can handle basic mechanics, and I did replace a cylinder head! Can I do this?

 

Quoting Haynes Manual.
REMOVAL:

1. Loosen the wheel lug nuts. Block the rear wheels and set the parking brake. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely. Remove front wheel.

2. Loosen the jam nut enough to mark the position of the tie-rod end in relation to the threads (see illustrations).

3. Remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut on the tie-rod end stud.

4. Disconnect the tie-rod end from the spindle arm with a puller (see illustration). Remove the nut and seperate the tie-rod.

5. Unscrew the tie-rod end from the tie-rod.

INSTALLATION:

6. Thread the tie-rod end on to the marked position and insert the tie-rod stud onto the spindle arm. Tighten the jam nut securely.

7. Install a new nut on the stud and tighten it to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Install a new cotter pin.

8. Install the wheel and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the torque listed in the Chapter 1 Specifications.

9. Have the alignment checked by a dealer service department or an alignment shop.

That sounds simple enough. Is it though?

 

yeah you can do it, just remember to mark em. that isnt going to guarantee the alignment though.

I thought you could use a rubber mallot to knock out the end from the spindle? I havent changed any in a couple years so i could be wrong about that.

 

Tie rods are easy as hell to do. I know your trying to save $ but the Steeda bump steer kit would be a good upgrade if you are lowered

 

Nope, I'm still riding high.

Are there any brands I should look for/stay away from when purchasing tie rod ends?

And I don't plan on doing this work this week, probably next. I won't die by doing so will I?

 

They're pretty easy to do but even with marking the rack you're alignment will still most likely be out. Do the myour self and then get an alignment.

PS - I told all of you it was his outter tie rod ends and not his ball joints.

 

You might have told me that, I don't remember my thread.lol

Thanks buddy!

Hardest part looks like using the puller to pull out the nut or whatever. Then, not having the car fall on me. [&o]

 

Before you start this endeavor go top autozone and get tie rod end boots from energy suspension (less than $6). I had the same issue witha squeaking tie rod end. I removed the old boot, put lots of grease inside the new boot and slipped it on.Never had to take the outer tie rod end off (no alignment needed) and no more squeaking.my old boot had collapsed on the driver's side and the grease had dried out. Try the boot first and if it works you've only invested $6 or less.

 

Use a pickle fork to separate the ball joints from the knuckle; it's the easiest way.. I mean, a BFH would work, but a pickle fork rocks..


Aside from that, you CAN mark them, and get your alignment close, however, when you pull the old outer off, compare it to the new one, in terms of the threaded end.. If it's longer, then take that into consideration when putting them back in.. Just don't forget to tighten everything up..

Hell, if you felt ambitious, you could always do the inners as well, but that's a little more challenging..



JT

 

A little more challenging, but not by a whole lot.

+1 on re-greasing them up if they could still be good. Once your car is raised and the tire is off the ground, try rocking your tire left and right with your hands. Look at your tie rod if you can while rocking it left and right. You should be able to tell if the end is bad, or if it is just squeeking because it need more grease.