New Heads & Cam installed. Won't Start.
#21
#23
The reason i said get your alnenator checked is because sometimes something goes wrong with them which causes some kind of interference with the cam sensor. It will give you the syptoms you are getting. Do a search on here you will see lots of people with the problem.
#24
OK, next time I get to the car, I will check to see if the tach is moving while cranking, and take the alternator to be tested. I had thought about the fuel pump too. I was assuming since when I turn the key on it squrrts a big stream of gas. I did this several times to bleed out the old fuel out of the line and filter and know that I have good gas in the line and filter. I was able to get over 3 gallons out of the tank this way. I have also been told that may not mean the fuel pump is good, and it may have a seperate solenoid just to prime the injectors at start up. Even if it is the fuel pump that does that, I guess it could be low enough pressure that it can not open the injectors. Keep the suggestions coming. I certainly appreciate all of them. I will repost back with my findings on the Tach, Alternator and try to find a way to test the fuel pump. I did find the fuel pump shut off safety in the trunk. It is all good.
PS, I have seen the smiley banging your head into a wall before. Anyone got one with a gun to your head? hahaha, not there yet. I'd shoot the car before myself. But it is getting severly frustrating.
PS, I have seen the smiley banging your head into a wall before. Anyone got one with a gun to your head? hahaha, not there yet. I'd shoot the car before myself. But it is getting severly frustrating.
#25
After working on the car some last night, here is where I am at. I compression test the cylinders. I got over 150lbs on all cylinders. That should tell me the timing chain is correct and no bent valves correct? I also gapped the plugs while I had them out, some had the gap to big. The tach does not move at all while cranking the engine, until I turn the key off, then it takes a tiny quick bounce to about 300 rpm. I have a stupid book, although it is not much help in explaining how to test sensors as far as where to put the leads on what pins. I did test power from the Crankshaft senor lead. (Not the sensor, the wire going to the sensor). With key on I get 1.45 volts at both leads, with the black lead of the tester to ground, and the red lead to each pin I tested. Anyone know if that is correct? Also the book shows a fuel pressure test port in right back corner of the engine compartment. I see 2 Schrater type connectors there but I believe they are for the AC. Anyone know if I can test fuel pump pressure without the car running? Although I have replaced the Crank, Cam and MAF sensors, anyone know how I can test those also. Never know, I have known parts to be defective from the box.
Last edited by Silver01StangGT; 09-07-2008 at 12:20 PM.
#27
disconnect a fuel line and turn the key to on, I do it at the fuel filter, it will pump it if its working.
Have you tryed arcing a plug out to the body? making sure your getting spark?
an engine requires 3 basic things to start.
Fuel
Compression
Spark
At least when I get thrown a broken down car thats where I always start.
We know you have compression, so un hook a fuel line and turn the key to on to see if your fuel pump is pumping fuel, if it shoots anything at ya then you have to be missing spark.
Give your coil packs a good lookin over.
Have you tryed arcing a plug out to the body? making sure your getting spark?
an engine requires 3 basic things to start.
Fuel
Compression
Spark
At least when I get thrown a broken down car thats where I always start.
We know you have compression, so un hook a fuel line and turn the key to on to see if your fuel pump is pumping fuel, if it shoots anything at ya then you have to be missing spark.
Give your coil packs a good lookin over.
#28
have you made sure the theft light is not flashing, it is common for these cars to get fubared after long time sitting without a battery, if it is flashing while your trying to start it, there is your problem,
if it is not flashing, then its simple double check all the harnesses, get a new cam and crank sensor, just incase.
one problem you could be having is gummed up injectors, thats what i had when i bought a used motor,
pull the rail and test the injectors 1 at a time,
2 contacts 1 pos 1 neg, use the battery as power supply and make sure they click when you apply power,
if it is not flashing, then its simple double check all the harnesses, get a new cam and crank sensor, just incase.
one problem you could be having is gummed up injectors, thats what i had when i bought a used motor,
pull the rail and test the injectors 1 at a time,
2 contacts 1 pos 1 neg, use the battery as power supply and make sure they click when you apply power,
#29
If it is the injectors, how would I go about cleaning them? I am leaning more towards a fuel problem. I do get lots a gas squirting when I turn the key on for about a second. I probably get a 1/4 cup every time I turn the key maybe even more. I do not know if it getting thru the fuel rail and/or injectors though. The security light stays solid while cranking the engine, it does not flash. Thanks for the tips everyone. The more the better, and I will be sure to repost when I find what was wrong.
#30
When putting my car back together after the pi swap, we forgot to plug in a sensor under the engine. check your harness (if you haven't already) and make sue everything is plugged in. We popped it back in and it started right up