Help with boring and stroking my 4.6 to a 5.0
09-11-2008, 06:44 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: OH
Posts: 2
Help with boring and stroking my 4.6 to a 5.0
Hello i am planning on boring and stroking my 281 4.6 on my 2001 mustang after i get back from Iraq. I was just wondering what all other modifications need to be done in order for it to run right. i will also be installing stage 2 comp cams as well. i appreciate your help and look forward to your responses.
09-11-2008, 08:02 PM
#2
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 527
how is it going man. i hope everything is going as well as it can in Iraq. im not sure what else you need other then tune. when im going to build my engine i think im going to give it to a performance shop theres one by my house that does alot fo race mustangs so i think there good for me and im just going to tell them to build it to be able to handle 800 hp and let them do there thing im not sure what is involved. i know this doesnt help at all but it bumps it to the top again so maybe someone can help you
09-11-2008, 08:53 PM
#3
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 912
Hello i am planning on boring and stroking my 281 4.6 on my 2001 mustang after i get back from Iraq. I was just wondering what all other modifications need to be done in order for it to run right. i will also be installing stage 2 comp cams as well. i appreciate your help and look forward to your responses.
That being said what are your power goals.
09-11-2008, 09:56 PM
#4
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 280
hey Sean, what shop is near you? Might want to check out CRERacing...
Scarm, you've just managed to jump right into the middle of a rather bitter debate. Some will tell you that it's a waste of time etc etc etc, and to forget about it. Others will say it's the best thing since sliced bread, 'no replacement for displacement' yada yada yada.
To answer the question you asked... For a 'stroker' to run 'right', the simplest answer is a tune. You're increasing the air intake in the motor, so you'll need to increase fuel to match. If you want the most performance out of your new stroker, it all depends on how deep your pockets are. You COULD go crazy, spend $10k on a Darton MID-sleeved block (thank you for that totally unreachable goal Steve), or you could find a good iron block, get it punched out .030" over (biggest you can safely go without sleeving) and leave it at that. Personally, I'd recommend at least a forged rotating assembly, adjustable cam gears (you did say that you were looking to put in some big cams as well, no?), look into getting your heads ported, headers (if you don't have them already), lightweight flywheel, and a new clutch. Bottom line: right around 3k on top of the machine work, if you pull everything apart yourself.
Scarm, you've just managed to jump right into the middle of a rather bitter debate. Some will tell you that it's a waste of time etc etc etc, and to forget about it. Others will say it's the best thing since sliced bread, 'no replacement for displacement' yada yada yada.
To answer the question you asked... For a 'stroker' to run 'right', the simplest answer is a tune. You're increasing the air intake in the motor, so you'll need to increase fuel to match. If you want the most performance out of your new stroker, it all depends on how deep your pockets are. You COULD go crazy, spend $10k on a Darton MID-sleeved block (thank you for that totally unreachable goal Steve), or you could find a good iron block, get it punched out .030" over (biggest you can safely go without sleeving) and leave it at that. Personally, I'd recommend at least a forged rotating assembly, adjustable cam gears (you did say that you were looking to put in some big cams as well, no?), look into getting your heads ported, headers (if you don't have them already), lightweight flywheel, and a new clutch. Bottom line: right around 3k on top of the machine work, if you pull everything apart yourself.
09-11-2008, 10:12 PM
#5
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 578
hey Sean, what shop is near you? Might want to check out CRERacing...
Scarm, you've just managed to jump right into the middle of a rather bitter debate. Some will tell you that it's a waste of time etc etc etc, and to forget about it. Others will say it's the best thing since sliced bread, 'no replacement for displacement' yada yada yada.
To answer the question you asked... For a 'stroker' to run 'right', the simplest answer is a tune. You're increasing the air intake in the motor, so you'll need to increase fuel to match. If you want the most performance out of your new stroker, it all depends on how deep your pockets are. You COULD go crazy, spend $10k on a Darton MID-sleeved block (thank you for that totally unreachable goal Steve), or you could find a good iron block, get it punched out .030" over (biggest you can safely go without sleeving) and leave it at that. Personally, I'd recommend at least a forged rotating assembly, adjustable cam gears (you did say that you were looking to put in some big cams as well, no?), look into getting your heads ported, headers (if you don't have them already), lightweight flywheel, and a new clutch. Bottom line: right around 3k on top of the machine work, if you pull everything apart yourself.
Scarm, you've just managed to jump right into the middle of a rather bitter debate. Some will tell you that it's a waste of time etc etc etc, and to forget about it. Others will say it's the best thing since sliced bread, 'no replacement for displacement' yada yada yada.
To answer the question you asked... For a 'stroker' to run 'right', the simplest answer is a tune. You're increasing the air intake in the motor, so you'll need to increase fuel to match. If you want the most performance out of your new stroker, it all depends on how deep your pockets are. You COULD go crazy, spend $10k on a Darton MID-sleeved block (thank you for that totally unreachable goal Steve), or you could find a good iron block, get it punched out .030" over (biggest you can safely go without sleeving) and leave it at that. Personally, I'd recommend at least a forged rotating assembly, adjustable cam gears (you did say that you were looking to put in some big cams as well, no?), look into getting your heads ported, headers (if you don't have them already), lightweight flywheel, and a new clutch. Bottom line: right around 3k on top of the machine work, if you pull everything apart yourself.
It's $1200 to machine a big bore block completely, which is only ~$500 more than standard machine work on a stock seasoned block anyways.
09-11-2008, 10:18 PM
#6
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 280
plus the sleeves, plus the custom-sized pistons... all the little stuff adds up quick.Not to mention they blow up rather quickly, which is why 99% of the 'big bore' motors are on race-only cars. Before you run up my butt about the previous comment, do some research. The sleeved blocks are usually filled with CONCRETE to give the block enough rigidity to support the sleeves, and if they're not, they have cooling issues (heat generated is a 3rd-power function, whereas the surface area is a 2nd power function). But, I'm not gonna preach anymore.
Scarm, if you're interested in what I have to say, PM me.
Scarm, if you're interested in what I have to say, PM me.
09-11-2008, 10:24 PM
#7
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 578
plus the sleeves, plus the custom-sized pistons... all the little stuff adds up quick.Not to mention they blow up rather quickly, which is why 99% of the 'big bore' motors are on race-only cars. Before you run up my butt about the previous comment, do some research. The sleeved blocks are usually filled with CONCRETE to give the block enough rigidity to support the sleeves, and if they're not, they have cooling issues (heat generated is a 3rd-power function, whereas the surface area is a 2nd power function). But, I'm not gonna preach anymore.
Scarm, if you're interested in what I have to say, PM me.
Scarm, if you're interested in what I have to say, PM me.
Big bore engines don't all "blow up" like you claim, but it's ok if you want to believe so. The only issues have been leaking with wet sleeve big bores, due to improper installation of the sleeves. The dry sleeve big bores have proven to hold upwards of 20 psi of boost with no issues, and no "block filler"
My dry sleeve Ford GT (aluminum 5.4L) block can/will withhold over 30 psi of boost.
BTW, I sell the big bore pistons for the same price as the .020" pistons, so how exactly does that "cost" more?
09-11-2008, 10:52 PM
#9
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 578
I don't argue, but rather correct false information. I don't see how a certain member can "preach" information as fact, when only a few months ago did not even know what the difference between a NPI and PI block were 
09-12-2008, 07:40 AM
#10
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Shelbyville, Indiana
Posts: 1,088
You could just get the Ford Boss 5.0 Big Bore:
http://www.mustang50magazine.com/tec...ock/index.html
http://www.modularperformance.com/Short_Blocks.html
http://www.modularmustangracing.com/
http://www.mustang50magazine.com/tec...ock/index.html
http://www.modularperformance.com/Short_Blocks.html
http://www.modularmustangracing.com/