300rwhp N/A 2V?
#22
400rwhp S/C 2v isn't just as easy as throwing a blower on the car. It takes alot of supporting mods as well.
#23
Honestly you could do full bolt ons and not quite make 300, and in the end you end up spending as much as you could just to s/c it. Like a couple others said though its not all about the power numbers. Somebody with a bone stock 2v could beat a full bolt on 2v if the guy can't drive. I'm sure its happened.
If you really want power, you need to dig into her, and if your going to spend the money to get all out of her I think its alot easier to just s/c it. Correct me if im wrong but I think a lot of people on here will say the same. But if you REALLY wanna stay n/a, you might just make 300, with full exhaust, tb, plenium, cai, ect, ect,ect.
If you really want power, you need to dig into her, and if your going to spend the money to get all out of her I think its alot easier to just s/c it. Correct me if im wrong but I think a lot of people on here will say the same. But if you REALLY wanna stay n/a, you might just make 300, with full exhaust, tb, plenium, cai, ect, ect,ect.
lol got a little laugh when i read that, when my car was stock(****, 2 months ago) thats what i did for fun, find full bolt on gts(t/b, plenum, cai, pullies, exhaust, gears) and beat them by half a car or so, then listen to them swear my **** wasnt stock and i had a gear or atleast something... it was quite fun
#24
#25
Seriously. Don't let the number "300" dictate whether you and your car are fast or not. Ultimately, if reliability is an issue and you don't want to tear into the car you should've bought another platform, like an LSx based car. Or, F/I it and you won't have to dig too deep into the car, but then there's the reliability factor, again. Look, just make due with what you have and work on your driving skills...
Last edited by myk; 10-21-2008 at 12:37 AM.
#26
#27
Seriously. Don't let the number "300" dictate whether you and your car are fast or not. Ultimately, if reliability is an issue and you don't want to tear into the car you should've bought another platform, like an LSx based car. Or, F/I it and you won't have to dig too deep into the car, but then there's the reliability factor, again. Look, just make due with what you have and work on your driving skills...
Yeah I guess. Well with all the mods I have in my sig now I think I just need gears and wider rims w/drag radials and then I think I can have a respectable track worthy car. Right now i'm running stock rims with 245's with Kumho ecsta ASX's which are the worst tires ever
#29
if you do
long tubes
mid pipe
catback
intake plenum
throttle body
CAI
Underdrive pullies
Cam
93 octane tune
you will be be in the high 200 range.
if you do all that plus some new stage 2 heads, youll be at your goal.
long tubes
mid pipe
catback
intake plenum
throttle body
CAI
Underdrive pullies
Cam
93 octane tune
you will be be in the high 200 range.
if you do all that plus some new stage 2 heads, youll be at your goal.
#30
Without heads and cams, it helps to have a high reading dyno....
As for "well go just as fast as FI car"
Yes. BUT, which car feels faster when accelerating on the free way, the car with bolt ons and a 31 spline rear, or the car with a blower on it?
As for "well go just as fast as FI car"
Yes. BUT, which car feels faster when accelerating on the free way, the car with bolt ons and a 31 spline rear, or the car with a blower on it?