As some of you know I elected to replace the engine in my mustang with a gently used INTERCEPTOR motor out of a 2002 Crown Victoria Police car. I shopped around for a decent Motor out of a Mustang GT and could not find a decent low mileage engine for under $1400. SO.. I went online and began searching the local police auctions (free to register and bid) and began a two year search for a low mileage engine. I was pleasantly surprised to find a Vic, that sustained a front end collision at the 48k mile mark. I got the car for $1200 and instantly pulled the engine, I proceeded to put the Vic on Craigslist and was able to sell the car $650 without the engine. I was told that it was basically a drop in and go swap, which is not entirely true.. Perhaps the difference are more extreeme because my 2000 Mustang GT came with a Windsor Block and the Interceptor Motor is a Romeo Block. So in this on going write-up I will address the differences in the swap. So I will catch you guys up to where I am today, and what I have noticed. If everyone is interested I will post pictures of the differences in the parts as a visual aid.

This swap may prove to be a very inexpensive alternative to crate/rebuild options. I am going to rebuild my OEM block while I have it apart and store it away for future use. So without further introduction, My Interceptor swap....

Step 1- Strip the Interceptor Longblock block down to the Block and Heads. Do this BEFORE pulling the engine out of your Mustang. I got a box of Ziplock Bags and wrote on the bag what each bolt, ect went to. I then placed these labeled bags In a rubbermaid bin for safekeeping. If all goes as planned these parts should be "extra"..

Step 2- Take pictures of your assembled Mustang Engine while it is still in the engine bay. From every angle..Then remove the hood, and the Air filter assembly, and battery.

Step 3- Begin by Draining all your fluids from the Mustang Engine I drained them in this order-
- Radiator Fluid (by removing the lower hose on the radiator) the removed all cooling components
- Power steering fluid (and removed the res. and pump) Drained by removing the lower hose that blocks that ONE bolt that you cant remove without removing the hose..
- Oil... Easy enough.

Step 3.5- Before removing the PS pump you have to remove the Drivebelt

Step 4- Trace the main engine harness and unplug it from where ever it connects to the body, I am not going to tell you each location, just dig around until you find them.. Make sure you get them all.

Step 5- Remove all the ground straps make sure to check under the engine as a couple wires loop under the oil pan and connect to the starter on the passengerside.. While you are under there go ahead and remove the starter.. It is a bitch to get out so just know that now. There are 3 bolts and you have to get to all of them from through the motor mount opening.. In order to gain clearance I had to drop the A/C compressor out of the way. So you might as well go ahead and to that before attemtpting to remove the starter.

Step 6- The EGR tube is basically impossible to loosen on the manifold side of the car (drivers side More on that later) so you have to loosen it where it meets the TB on top of the engine.

Step 7- Remove the exhaust manifold bolts where it connects to the header manifolds.. This also proves to be nearly impossible on the passenger side. So here is the tip of the week.. The bolts are 15mm you actually need to cut a 15mm deepwell socket in Half in order to remove the upper bolt on the passenger side. HINT: 15mm Deepwell socket cut in half- and a universal joint with a long extension.. Does the trick.

Step 8- Remove the motormount bolts- (one on each side) 21mm socket BTW...

Step 9- Place a jack under the transmission (and support the tranny)

Step 10- Unhook the fuel line where it meets the body (unless you have a special tool to remove the stupid compression fittings at the rail...

Step 11- Make sure all vacumme lines are removed and then remove the throttle cables.

Step 12- Make sure you remembered to unhook the two O2 sensor clips that are mounted on the bellhousing. Unbolt the Intake Manifold as a single unit. Injectors, igniters, Tb all as one. and pull it out. toward the front of the car (to get around the egr tube)

Step 13- REMOVE all 7 transmission to engine mount bolts. PLUS the two that hold the flywheel inspection cover on. (i forgot these and it makes removing the engine impossible...

Step 14- Hook up your engine hoist to two solid pull points and begin the pull process...

Now that you have both the engines out and sitting next to eachother you should notice some paramount differences.

These are the differences I noticed- keep in mind that It may or may not differ for you as I had a Windsor Block stock and my replacement is a Romeo.

- The idler pulley - my newer engine had a grooved idler pulley, where my old engine had a smooth pulley
- The exhaust manfolds are different (EGR tube is reversed) so you must swap your mustang manifolds onto the Interceptor block.
- Also the coolant tube running to the waterpump is different so swap that over too..
- The Valve covers are also different On the interceptor motor ( the oil fill is reversed and the mustang covers must be used.)
- The dipstick tube must be used off the mustang motor as well.
- THe oil filter housing/oil cooler must be used off your Mustang too..

My car is a 5 speed so i also had to buy a new flywheel as the Interceptor motor was an automatic and 6 bolt crank VS my 8 bolt Windsor...

Basically all you do is swap the parts listed over, and then drop the new block in. Re-install everything in the reverse or removal. And enjoy a well maintained budget replacement. My engine came will all service records. I am waiting on the flywheel to arrive before starting to install the motor back.. So i will post up pictures and startup video then...

If i missed something please feel free to post it up here, As this is my first Mustang motor Swap.

 

Ummm, Why the heck would you swap out your engine in the first place? Did you blow it up? Do you know that the Interceptor is a gimmic ebay sellers use to sell those engines and they are non-pi! 210hp? The NON-PI heads have the oil fill on the driver side vs PI heads (performance improved 260hp, which is what 99-04gt have) have the oil fill on the passenger side. The police cruisers just had extra oil cooler that is a bolt on item and a 160amp alternator and NOn-pi heads. Far less power than your stock engine
I hope you didn't think you were putting in a 300hp motor in your car. And I sure hope your old engine wasn't in perfect opersting condition, because if it was...PUT IT BACK IN!

 

Just wanted to capture what you origionally said in a smaller paragraph. Nobody like to read hours of crap....lol

 

ACTUALLY YOU ARE VERY WRONG. My 2002 Interceptor motor has the PI heads. You seriously need to do a little more research before posting on this thread. I am not going to address this further. And I would appreciate it if the Mods would remove his mis-information.

NOTE: 99- some 2001 interceptors did not have PI heads... Every interceptor above 2001.5 have PI heads. I can provide pictures for confirmation.

 

OK, then why is the oil fill on the wrong side?
Also, what's the purpose of buying an "interceptor" motor vs GT motor?
Here's what I found from an article copied and pasted:
For a number of years, Ford has had the goal of a zero to 60 mph time of eight seconds and a top speed of 130 mph for its Police Interceptor. The top speed has been achieved. However, the zero to 60 mph and zero to 100 mph acceleration goals have been elusive with the 4.6L SOHC V-8. Since its 1998 remodeling, the Police Crown Victoria has had an increase from 215 to 235 HP, used two different rear axles and two different torque converters, among major changes.

Here's the info on the updated Police packages for 2003+ years only:
220hp @ 4750 rpm/265lb.ft. @ 4000 rpm/9.4:1 compression 4.6L V-8 (Fleet only.)
224hp @ 4750 rpm/265lb.ft. @ 4000 rpm/9.4:1 compression 4.6L V-8 (Base civilian package.)
239hp @ 4750 rpm/276lb.ft. @ 4000 rpm/9.4:1 compression 4.6L V-8 (Perf. & Handling Pkg.-equipped only; includes Sport)
250hp @ 4900 rpm/287lb.ft. @ 4100 rpm/9.6:1 compression 4.6L V-8 (Police Interceptor package only.)

So Yes, They did have non-pi for the most part. Wasn't until 2003 which was listed in this article that they bumped up the HP from 235-250hp. This is still 10hp less than your GT had, but you would have to get a 2003 or newer P71 engine. 2002 prior only has the 235hp. They also have different cams and redline...much lower. Little more torquier than the GT I would presume. Don't go begging to the mods that I had false information because you think it makes you look bad or for whatever reasons?? I was right for the most part. The 2001 mid year was merely the romeo/windsor block change for the mustangs as well as PI in 99+. That's where those years come into play.

You need to get your panties out of a bunch and just take the info as it is. I wish I could change your motor into a 300hp monster, however sad news, is you have a 235hp slug that won't rev more than 5krpms.

 

all info is above as needed. P71's had 220hp up until 1997. 1998-2002 was 235hp. 2003-current is 250hp.

 

I would check the head casting numbers to see what they are. If the casting begins with RF1L2E, then I believe is a PI head

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Cr...ce_Interceptor

 

Too much for me....

 

I appreciate the attempted help RuffCat.. I never claimed that I was dropping in a 300hp monster.. Not once. I have purchased a NON PI motor before by accident, so I KNEW this one was the right one. The Heads look completely different (porting especially)..

RF1L2E is the first 6 digits on my heads on the new motor.