Help me understand battle boxes. Please
02-24-2009, 05:18 PM
#11
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: IL
Posts: 894
Holy ****!!! Than I will just do the lowers and call it a day. I was trying to "refresh" my suspension but I think I have gone far enough. Also what is "bind" I been trying to search and find out but I all know is that it's unwanted but I don't know exactly what it is.
02-24-2009, 08:17 PM
#14
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Join Date: Mar 2005
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OMG thank you that was buggin the hell out of me. lol. When I head down that road I probably will just get them welded at the weak points.
02-24-2009, 09:54 PM
#15
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I had all my work done at Griggs Racing and never discussed any reinforcing of torque boxes. I would think that they would be LESS likely to have issues running a spherical end as it will allow movent with out the stress caused by a poly bushing bind.
Ya, sorry marcus, I am NOT a fan of that type of UCA/LCA for the reasons mentioned. If you can return them, I would recommend it and go with the UPR ones. Sounds like some torque box welding would be a nice idea, but sure mine were not done by Griggs. I will take a poke under there and see for sure though. If I see signs of stress/cracking, I will address it ASAP
As to .2" being bad for additional drop, I am not too concerned. I just think that 1.25~1.5" is just about all the geometry wants to go before the beginning of some issues. Excessive neg. camber, bump-steer, pinion angle, bottoming out and general rough ride. All these issues can be effected to a lesser degree by a more modest drop.
I have a little more info on suspension bind in post #4 above.
HTH
Jazzer
Ya, sorry marcus, I am NOT a fan of that type of UCA/LCA for the reasons mentioned. If you can return them, I would recommend it and go with the UPR ones. Sounds like some torque box welding would be a nice idea, but sure mine were not done by Griggs. I will take a poke under there and see for sure though. If I see signs of stress/cracking, I will address it ASAP
As to .2" being bad for additional drop, I am not too concerned. I just think that 1.25~1.5" is just about all the geometry wants to go before the beginning of some issues. Excessive neg. camber, bump-steer, pinion angle, bottoming out and general rough ride. All these issues can be effected to a lesser degree by a more modest drop.
I have a little more info on suspension bind in post #4 above.
HTH
Jazzer
02-24-2009, 10:09 PM
#16
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 7,797
To the OP, if you have poly bushings and aren't putting down loads of TQ, the CA mounting points will be fine. If you decide to get more serious with the power just take it to someone who knows Mustangs, and tell them to weld the boxes up.
02-24-2009, 11:01 PM
#17
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: IL
Posts: 894
I had all my work done at Griggs Racing and never discussed any reinforcing of torque boxes. I would think that they would be LESS likely to have issues running a spherical end as it will allow movent with out the stress caused by a poly bushing bind.
Ya, sorry marcus, I am NOT a fan of that type of UCA/LCA for the reasons mentioned. If you can return them, I would recommend it and go with the UPR ones. Sounds like some torque box welding would be a nice idea, but sure mine were not done by Griggs. I will take a poke under there and see for sure though. If I see signs of stress/cracking, I will address it ASAP
As to .2" being bad for additional drop, I am not too concerned. I just think that 1.25~1.5" is just about all the geometry wants to go before the beginning of some issues. Excessive neg. camber, bump-steer, pinion angle, bottoming out and general rough ride. All these issues can be effected to a lesser degree by a more modest drop.
I have a little more info on suspension bind in post #4 above.
HTH
Jazzer
Ya, sorry marcus, I am NOT a fan of that type of UCA/LCA for the reasons mentioned. If you can return them, I would recommend it and go with the UPR ones. Sounds like some torque box welding would be a nice idea, but sure mine were not done by Griggs. I will take a poke under there and see for sure though. If I see signs of stress/cracking, I will address it ASAP
As to .2" being bad for additional drop, I am not too concerned. I just think that 1.25~1.5" is just about all the geometry wants to go before the beginning of some issues. Excessive neg. camber, bump-steer, pinion angle, bottoming out and general rough ride. All these issues can be effected to a lesser degree by a more modest drop.
I have a little more info on suspension bind in post #4 above.
HTH
Jazzer
Okay thanks for the info, you really seem to know your stuff. I checked out your car and the work you have done so I know you know what u are talking about. Do u know anything about the X2 ball joints? They come with spacers but I don't know if I need them or not. ZW99GT that's what I was thinking but wasn't sure. Sounds like the must sensible and cost effective way to go.
02-25-2009, 08:48 AM
#18
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Join Date: Jun 2006
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When it comes to replacing stock suspension parts, one is going to trade one thing for another. If you run a stock, solid with poly/poly, solid poly/spherical or solid spherical/spherical something will eventually give if you drive hard/long enough.
If someone wants to keep his/her car running with the least amount of trouble or issues, keep it stock.
ZW kinda hurt my feelings a little bit
Jazzer
03-04-2009, 12:57 PM
#20
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 7,797
A spherical bushing will allow the articulation of axle caused by body roll during hard cornering and going up an angled driveway from a level surface. The soft rubber bushings are only going to give soo much and will begin to apply twisting stress on the torque boxes (of course the stock arms flex as well). That leaves the stress applied to forces such as launching. This is going to be an issue reguardless of HP/T output and the LCA one runs if the tires grab enough traction. With a softer rubber bushing, how much "give" do you think the bushing have before all the remaining energy is applied to the torque boxes? I would guess after about 1 horse power. I have seen the damage a blown-out soft rubber bushing can do to the tires/wheels/suspension components of those who were unfortunate enough to stress them too long on soft tires.
When it comes to replacing stock suspension parts, one is going to trade one thing for another. If you run a stock, solid with poly/poly, solid poly/spherical or solid spherical/spherical something will eventually give if you drive hard/long enough.
If someone wants to keep his/her car running with the least amount of trouble or issues, keep it stock.
ZW kinda hurt my feelings a little bit
Jazzer
When it comes to replacing stock suspension parts, one is going to trade one thing for another. If you run a stock, solid with poly/poly, solid poly/spherical or solid spherical/spherical something will eventually give if you drive hard/long enough.
If someone wants to keep his/her car running with the least amount of trouble or issues, keep it stock.
ZW kinda hurt my feelings a little bit
Jazzer
I understand what you are saying about the twisting. But in straight line, the soft bushing will give and the metal bushing will not give, isn't that correct? I didn't mean to hurt you feelings, even a little bit. lol.I've had a poly UCA bushing give out on two occasions actually. Wasn't pretty to say the least.
