and sxynerd...im not angry, just i have a good general knowledge...it is my dream car..my 4th mustang...i just dont need someone telling me to sell it after it took me 5 years to afford it ok? i may not be able to take the motor out and rebuid it..but i can do full bolt ons like upper and lower intakes..fuel rails, TB and Plenums, cold air, pipes...etc...

 

Here's what the shop manual says about P1506, it's an IAC (Idle Air Control) error, most likely a stuck or failed IAC.

P0141 is a code for the rear sensor on the passenger's side, sensor "12", bank 1, sensor 2...

It has the same description, possible cause, and diag tips as P0135, most likely a wiring issue however itcould be a bad heater in the sensor.

See how easy it is when you have the codes...

 

I'm just a mean person w/ just a GT Convertible.

 

ok, ahah it is easier cliffyK, thanks for your help....and apology accepted sxynerd..ahahah
Also, cliffy, how would i know if the heater is bad in the sensor, i will probably just replace it though, i have to fix both of these issues because i have to get the car to pass emissions in 2 weeks, then after that see ya later, and on goes my O/R X and Spintechs....

one more noob question, i know of the IAC, i dont know where it is, is it off the throttlebody? ive heard of some people cleaning it with gasoline...is that true? thanks guys for your help...

 

It's about 50/50 for people that think cleaning the IAC works. I've replaced 3 of them so far and I haven't had any luck cleaning any of them. Carb or brake cleaner would work better than gas.

 

ok....thanks....i will probably just replace it then

 

The IAC is right off the upper intake... Heres a pic from my old car (IAC is circled)

 

As far as the 02 problem. Before you go replacing the sensor, please thoroughly check the circuit for damage. The harness is known to get damaged right around the trans mount area. Pull down the harness a bit and look all the way around for any damage or kink in the insulation.

 

Checking the O2 sensor heater involves two measurments, the easiest to do is to measure the resistance of the sensor's heater. It should be 3.3Ω or so. For the passenger side rear sensor the heater wires should be red/yellow and white/black, disconnect the sensor and read the resistance across these wires.


If it reads 0Ω then the heater is open, if it reads 0.5Ω or better but less than 3.3Ω then the heater is shorted--if either case the O2 sensor needs to be replaced.

If however it reads 3.3Ω then something else if wrong, this could be a shorted or broken wire, or a bad PCM. To test this, use a Voltmeter to measure the voltage between the harness end of red/yellow heater wire (you can leave the sensor disconnected for this test), and a good ground (the exhaust pipe should work), with the key in RUN. It should read +12.0V or better while the PCM is commanding the heater ON, if not then there's a wiring or PCM problem.

For reference all four O2 sensors, recieve power for the heaters through the same fuse, a 20A fuse in poosition 8 of the underdash fuse panel. The PCM connects the "gound" side of the heater circuit to ground to activate the heater.

 

ok, thanks white fox..i appreciate it...that is one clean cobra engine bay aha....but i guess i will just replace it..and if my harness does have a kink should i just get a new harness? like i said i found one from MPS for 115 on ebay...thanks