The codes I have for the check engine light are P0152 and P1152. Anyone have an idea of what it means because its not listed in the haynes manual for my 2003 mustang GT for the OBDII if thats whats on my car.

 

P0152 is a lean condition in bank 2. Either a vacuum leak, bad fuel pressure or bad injectors.

P1152 is same as above but for bank 1.

 

These are both Bank 2, sensor 1 (front) codes...

Here's what the shop manual says about P0152 (same possible causes as P0132) and P1152 (same possible causes as P1130).

I'd start by looking for a wiring problem.

 

Heres the problem the codes that you all are giving me and the codes I got from autozone, none of the are showing up in the haynes manual. Why are they not in the manual? I am running a bigger throttlebody than stock is it possible that this is whats running a rich problem. Its a 75mm TB?

 

The Haynes manual is undoubtedly the definitive source for complete and unabridged auto repair information, so the fact that those codes are not listed in that venerable tome must mean they are irrelevant to proper operation of your car.

Also, I think you may be on to something with the 75mm throttle body theory--so don't let the minor fact that there is no mention of the throttle body as a possible cause for the P0152 and P1152 codes distract you from pursuing that, and other potential problems also not listed in the shop manual's information for the DTCs being thrown...

 

The car still idles alittle rough when the codes are reseting after the battery is unplugged the like I said the check engine light comes on again and is still idling alittle rough. I went ahead and changed out the throttle positioning sensor camshaft positioning sensor and put a new battery in it and a new alternator in it. Still throws the same codes that I have listed in this thread. My next guess would be a cat convetor a EGR valve or a DPFE sensor that has something to do with reading the EGR. Anyone have this similiar problem or might know whats going on with etting a check engine light and idling alittle rough?

 

Its not even close to your alternator, or battery. Why change those out for this issue?


My advice would be to stop throwing money at it for a second... Read the advice Above from others.

>vacuum leak, bad fuel pressure or bad injectors.
>Id start by looking for a wiring problem.

Vacuum leak can cause this in a heartbeat. Bad fuel pressure due to a clogged filter, bad fuel pump, or something similar will cause this issue. A bad injector(s) could cause it... Hell, bad gas could cause it. Or you could have a wireharness grounding out or something and messing up the signals to your ECU. Just stop and look for a sec... Money only helps when you know where to throw it.

After looking into these, I would recommend looking towards the MAF also.

If you would like to spend $100 you could probably go to FORD and they will tell you what it is. (let them do the labor it will be much more). Their computers go beyond trouble codes, and they can look at your sensor data (or a friend with the right software)