brake rotor red hot
07-07-2009, 03:21 PM
#11
aka 'Negative Nancy'
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,839
my car had the pins in the caliper seize on the rear for both sides
passenger side i was able to rip the boot off, clear out the rust, pull out the pins....then i bought a pin kit that comes with slider pin and boots and i replaced the pins and the boots
driver side was beyong fixing, so i ordered a new caliper bracket, i think it was like $15 but dont quote me on that...came with the bracket, pins, and boots
OP, check your caliper bracket before replacing the whole caliper... make sure the pins slide good and make sure the boots arent ripped...pull the boots back and remove the pins and grease them up...if theres any rust, or if the pins are stuck, get new pins or a new caliper bracket if you feel its necessary
07-07-2009, 03:57 PM
#13
aka 'Negative Nancy'
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,839
07-07-2009, 04:15 PM
#15
aka 'Negative Nancy'
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,839
this could have helped what caused your problem... dumb question, but you put brake grease in them right? not chassis grease? if you pull the pin out, does it look good inside where the pin rides? if so, call advanced and ask for a pin kit for it and then just replace the pin and boot...if it looks bad inside of there also, call and ask for a caliper bracket
07-07-2009, 04:17 PM
#16
aka 'Negative Nancy'
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,839
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...entId=cat30058
(this one should come with boots, even though not pictured)
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...entId=cat30058
(this one should come with boots, even though not pictured)
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...entId=cat30058
07-07-2009, 05:48 PM
#17
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 324
so i bought a new caliper, rotor, and pads along with some grease. installation went smoothly and the caliper came with pins and boots.my old pins has chassis grease on them and so that was what i used this time. all i have to do now is bleed my system out tomorrow, but im off to work now
07-07-2009, 07:34 PM
#18
aka 'Negative Nancy'
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,839
so i bought a new caliper, rotor, and pads along with some grease. installation went smoothly and the caliper came with pins and boots.my old pins has chassis grease on them and so that was what i used this time. all i have to do now is bleed my system out tomorrow, but im off to work now
/facepalm
also, why buy a whole new caliper without testing out just replacing the pins/bracket?
07-08-2009, 01:32 PM
#19
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 324
the reason i bought a new one is this: i have a lifted up jeep cherokee and my passenger side rotor locked up once. only it never got red hot and it took me a while to figure out what it was. i pulled the caliper off and compressed the piston and then hit my brakes to bring the piston back out. then i compressed the piston again. i did this multiple times. i also lubed it with BRAKE GREASE. it was just because the caliper decided it was time to take a ****. and i feel that the mustang caliper did the same
07-08-2009, 05:44 PM
#20
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 324
so i bled my brakes out and they work good. there is no howling at 50-65mph speeds (which is where i heard it before). so my wheel bearing is not thrashed like some thought it was. when all is said and done im out 120 bucks for a new caliper, rotor, and brake pads. it looks nice and it works nice