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I need help!

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Old 09-19-2009, 05:05 PM
  #11  
fisher2985
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Originally Posted by jpacetti View Post
No it dosen't and it hasn't since I bought it 3 years ago prior to that who knows. One of the first things I do when I buy a car used is change the ignition switch. But the switch prior to mine did not have one either. I was told by MPS that this could cause a problem with the Anti-theft but they assured me it would still turn over. Specifically they said the "If the fuel pump comes on and it turns over but won't start then I would need to have my computer flashed or reset to accept the new setup." Apparently this is a common problem.

I know this starting problem could happen if the transmission were not in gear. But I think the switch would be tied to the gear selector and not the transmission. I could be wrong about that but it seems to make sense. But I haven't done anything to that area through the whole process. I have thru tomorrow to figure this out or I'm turning it over to a local mechanic at MV Performance who does these all the time. I'm sure it's something small and stupid it's just a matter of finding it.
switch is on tranny linkage on side of tranny.
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Old 09-19-2009, 05:12 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by jeff37110 View Post
If the ccrm was bad it would still turn over...Mine went out a few weeks ago and my fuel pump would not energize..but car still turned over..
Thanks for helping me rule that out. There are quite a few things that run through there so I thought I would ask around. Under a normal situation this would be easy to identify, but since alot of these parts to include the wiring harness were all from another car, it somehow defies the laws of common logic and enters the confusing (at least to me) realm of electricity. I'm good enough to check continuity and for voltage but understanding diagrams not so much.
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Old 09-19-2009, 06:37 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by fisher2985 View Post
switch is on tranny linkage on side of tranny.
I checked the switch. Its installed and connected. Thanks for the help. I'm shootin for a new ground to the starter. I think that could be a problem. But isn't it grounded through the engine?
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Old 09-19-2009, 07:05 PM
  #14  
zero2005
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run a ground from the engine to the negative side of battery. i had this problem persist for 3 months. i had recently swapped k-members, and occasionally the wire i had for ground was too loose. i moved it to an area i could see it (it was on driver side motor mount) i moved it to front of engine, theres a bolt for the PS resevoir and thats where i put it.... good as new now....

if its the ground, then you'll know quickly. does it make 1 single click? or multiple clicks?
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Old 09-19-2009, 07:30 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by zero2005 View Post
run a ground from the engine to the negative side of battery. i had this problem persist for 3 months. i had recently swapped k-members, and occasionally the wire i had for ground was too loose. i moved it to an area i could see it (it was on driver side motor mount) i moved it to front of engine, theres a bolt for the PS resevoir and thats where i put it.... good as new now....

if its the ground, then you'll know quickly. does it make 1 single click? or multiple clicks?
I get one click then everything goes dead, including the interior power. It's like it puts a huge drain on my battery. I will try the ground to the power steering pump resevoir at least to see it fixes it plus it sounds like an easy place to put one or a good jumper to try the theory.
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Old 09-19-2009, 07:49 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by zero2005 View Post
run a ground from the engine to the negative side of battery. i had this problem persist for 3 months. i had recently swapped k-members, and occasionally the wire i had for ground was too loose. i moved it to an area i could see it (it was on driver side motor mount) i moved it to front of engine, theres a bolt for the PS resevoir and thats where i put it.... good as new now....

if its the ground, then you'll know quickly. does it make 1 single click? or multiple clicks?
I tried it with some jumper cables but no change. But here is somethin that may help. I can only get it to click if I'm in neutral. In park all that happens is my instrument panel goes black but it comes back when I release the key. When I get the single click in neutral or try to bypass the engine that puts a severe drain on the battery.

And just to review I had the battery checked and it tested good. Is it possible my battery isn't strong enough? Its rated at 610 CCAmps and when tested delivered 559 CCAmps.
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Old 09-22-2009, 05:41 AM
  #17  
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Problem solved. Loose engine harness connector. I'm told this is a common mistake even by people that do this stuff all of the time. Now I just have to have the AntiTheft Bypassed. It was sitting on it but not tightened down all the way. And BTW it sounds fnnn awesome. Thanks MPS.
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