Does anyone know if a stuck lifter can trip a code. Actually got 2 related to misfire. Other code has to do with misfire in short time after starting or early cycles??

 

Our cars do not have lifters.

Probably an issue related to COP (coil on plugs)

 

What exactly are your codes? misfire on first thousand revolutions and a po30x for a specific cylinder misfire, im assuming?

 

Here's whats goin on. Recently bought knowing there were issues with timing chain at least, but understood it might require eng replacement or build. Bought a warranty with loan, flogged car that ran pretty good, plastic bushing for t chain finally totally disintegrated - could hear chain riding on cover. Towed to shop, pulled down, plastic pieces and sludge everywhere.

warranty denied based on sludge, (sludge was horrible, looked like roofing mastic)told shop to replace tensioners and bushing. I thought I could make frequent oil changes to clean and before giving up on that throw some rislone or seafoam as last hope before rebuild just to buy some time and save the money to do right. Told at that time also had a stuck lifter, probably due to sludge that was causing misfire and code. Didn't want to come off wrong but know there is hydraulic mechanism that pushes valve (lash adjuster?). I'm new to working on OH cams but made sense as it was RPM dependant. Is it cam to roller follower to ___ to valve?

Anyways the codes-- this morning put my reader on (right after starting) and had P0172 system too rich bank1 and p0174 system too lean bank2, erased then nothing. Cruised about 50 miles, (pulled pretty strong still too new for me to know whats normal)pulled in driveway still no light. Sat in driveway w/ car still running then service engine starts flashing. Hooked reader up and got po316 eng misfire first 1000 rpms, po301 cylinder 1 misfire, and po300 random mult cylinder misfire. Also getting a little gurgle from exhaust when I let off gas - has flowmasters. Assume thats normal - I know my HD did that when I modded exhaust and carb.

I know there are some big brains on this board, any help is greatly appreciated.

BTW bullit how do you like the centerforce? will replace clutch when I get to rebuild(400 something hp). was leaning towards frd cobra clutch

 

I have had few issues with the centerforce. Im running a mild setup (boltons, tune, 4:10s) and have had no issues. My only bit advice would be to have the flywheel machines. I was lazy and just took a wizwheel to my flywheel and I occationally have slip issues in the first few shift I run my car.

The appropriate term for the valvetrain on a 2v is hydraulic lash adjuster. If you have a nasty sludge buildup, in my opinion, I would replace lash adjusters, timing chains, and chain tensioners. Pricey if you don't do it yourself, but really to ensure no other problems you will want to do it.

Did they actually show you your engine? I dont want to badmouth techs, as I am one myself, but between a Ford tech and an aftermarket warrantee company, both are looking for you to pay for the repair for maximum profit.

 

yeah I saw it. nasty! I considered handing them a bucket and calling a tow truck. could handle the cost of the rebuild, but all the extras that would be free install if i had the parts will more than double the build if i stay na. already cancelled warranty as they would throw the sludge flag at anything to do w/engine.

i guess i will swap coils and see if that moves the mis to other cylinder, put plugs in yesterday.

i am leaning towards the centerforce, supposed to be one of the better ones for grab. is it still smooth?

 

It has a somewhat stiff pedal, although not the harshest by any means, but engagement is very smooth. It surprised me quite a bit to be honest. I love it personally.

But honestly dont waste your money trying to fix a base engine concern with ignition components. If you have a know valvetrain issue, get that sorted before you go spending hundreds of bucks on ignition components. A fudged up base engine does nothing for performance.

 

Having experienced a variety, on the clutches at least, I'll add here:

Spec clutches (personal experience with stage 1, 2, and 3):
PROS:
-Cheap!
-Strong
CONS:
-Repeatable poor life
-VERY heavy pedal
-Chatter, noise
-Poor engagement, it's pretty much full on or full off, very little in between
-Pressure plate doesn't allow for much adjustment of pedal travel (all the spec clutches have engaged at top of pedal travel, even when brand new, and it's hard to adjust that out)

Centerforce (Dual friction):
PROS:
-Durable, got great life from them
-Great pedal feel, only slightly heavier than stock... about the same as 03 cobra stock
-Great pedal engagement, just like stock
CONS:
-Cost

King Cobra:
CONS (yes, cons first):
-Blew up with ~340 RWHP and stock tires, twice

PROS:
-You won't have it long enough to realize any benefits. I'm not the only person with a bad experience with these.

I'm still running a stock clutch in mine. 65k miles and supercharged now, 9psi. No slip, no problems. When it does finally give up I'll probably try something new like Fidanza.

 

thanks for the clutch info.

Bullit - I think im going for the rebuild if I cant free up l adjusters with the frequent oil changes and last chance rislone. I just swapped 2 existing coils to see if it would change the cyl number on the code. Seems isolated to #1 cyl - guessing that's passenger side closest to rad.

Hopefully I can start posting good stuff before long instead of a bunch of questions. I've been on a steep learning curve.