Work needed prior to running 12-14psi?
I am ordering some long tubes in the next two weeks so it is time to look ahead and plan my next move. I eventually would like to supercharge my Mustang as most people want to do... This brings up alot of questions. I know the rods give out around 400-450rwhp, and I know once you are running enough power you need to upgrade your rear end and your tranny. Too make this easier lets say I want to run a 14 PSI KB twin screw (trying to decide between a KB or centrifugal still)
1) when you forge your internals is that just forged rods and pistons or do you need a new crank shaft as well? Also how do you know what kind of compression ratio you need to run?
2) When will the transmission give out? And what is a good upgrade? With a new transmission you need a new bell housing right?
3) What work is involved in strengthening your rear end? New axles and/or what else?
I am not running into a huge wad of cash any time soon so I was going to have to work my way up to supercharging my car and I was trying to get a feel for the amount of work and money it is going to take to run 12-14 PSI.
1) when you forge your internals is that just forged rods and pistons or do you need a new crank shaft as well? Also how do you know what kind of compression ratio you need to run?
2) When will the transmission give out? And what is a good upgrade? With a new transmission you need a new bell housing right?
3) What work is involved in strengthening your rear end? New axles and/or what else?
I am not running into a huge wad of cash any time soon so I was going to have to work my way up to supercharging my car and I was trying to get a feel for the amount of work and money it is going to take to run 12-14 PSI.
Forged pistons and rods are a MUST. Keep your compression around 8.5:1. As far as a tranny the T56 will work well. Now to the rear end....Eaton posi with 31 spline axles.
I'd go forged on the crank, too. The tranny should hold up to 400 or so. You'll need a new beefier clutch kit. Centerforce dual friction of the like.
Rear end: Stock axle should hold up along with the tranny. BUT...
Upper and lower control arms and poly bushings will need improvement to keep things well behaved back there. Torque boxes are a must over 350HP, unless you drive like granny. I'd also put in the FRPP aluminum driveshaft, but it can wait. Gears will really help with launches. 4.10s.
Of course, this is only my opinion. Come on guys and gals, what do you think?
Rear end: Stock axle should hold up along with the tranny. BUT...
Upper and lower control arms and poly bushings will need improvement to keep things well behaved back there. Torque boxes are a must over 350HP, unless you drive like granny. I'd also put in the FRPP aluminum driveshaft, but it can wait. Gears will really help with launches. 4.10s.
Of course, this is only my opinion. Come on guys and gals, what do you think?
ORIGINAL: code3GT
Forged pistons and rods are a MUST. Keep your compression around 8.5:1. As far as a tranny the T56 will work well. Now to the rear end....Eaton posi with 31 spline axles.
Forged pistons and rods are a MUST. Keep your compression around 8.5:1. As far as a tranny the T56 will work well. Now to the rear end....Eaton posi with 31 spline axles.
T56 cost more than a TKO style, they won't take nearly as much abuse, and all you really get out of it is the ablity to run a steeper rear gear while still keeping the revs low on the highway.
You also have to replace not only the bellhousing and clutch, but you need to replace/cut the driveshaft.
I made the decsion to go with a TKO cause I don't want to have to mess with it again. Transmission problems SUCK.
BTW, the rear end will need beefing up if you plan on tires any stickyer than Nitto D/Rs, and even those can break a stock rearend with repeated abuse and lots of horsepower (hell the stock tires could).
Also, if i wnet ahead and forged my internals say tomorrow and did the recommended 8.5:1 compression would that have any beneficial or negative effects running n/a til I got a s/c installed?
Running that compression with a n/a engine won't "hurt" the engine, but it will feel like there's some lag in it.
Forged internals = 2k roughly
Install= 1k roughly (without cam/head work)
2k with cam/headwork (not including the price of the cam/head work)
Forged internals = 2k roughly
Install= 1k roughly (without cam/head work)
2k with cam/headwork (not including the price of the cam/head work)
ORIGINAL: beezy
What guages should i get with a super charger? boost guage and a/f ratio?
What guages should i get with a super charger? boost guage and a/f ratio?
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