stangman1976

no I have not tried the stock regulator yet as I still need to buy 1. I will pick one up on my way to work today and install it tomorrow morn. this aeromotive unit been on my car for over a year an never had any probs with it everything always been spot on this whole running issue started a few weeks ago and is progressively getting worse

stangman1976

well I put a new stock regulator on and cleared the codes drove it for an hour and check engine light came back on. checked it says same thing bank 1 and bank 2 running rich this is getting frustrating

stangman1976

rechecked all plugs they look good brand new stock plugs. rechecked all vac lines all still connected rubber lines are a year old still new and plastic lines are crack free. checked connections on MAP, MAF, AIC, IAC, TPS all seem good put new coating of dielectric grease on connectors, factory regulator in. but still have the bank 1 and bank 2 running rich and car is still running like crap so I dont think the aeromotive unit was the cause. what have I missed I need ideas here guys trying to avoid a costly trip to a local garage. I do all my own work so I dont have a regular mechanic who I can trust or would trust for that matter. they all about the dollar could give two shyts if my car works correctly just from past exp with mechanics I usually know more about my car then they do. and I usually get it back with more probs whether it be some azz hole mechanic who got mad an punched my fricken door or they leave brake lines rub on drive shaft or they leave my fender mount cold air intake filter layen in bottom of fender. yeah so I hate going to mechanics unless I can sit and watch them work on my car wit a video cam, been screwed too many times. more ideas please guys

stangman1976

still working on problem nothing new coming up.

stangman1976

cliffy???

bradykat

i would look at the 02 sensors...the upstream are the top and down stream are the rear.....with and off road pipe the sensors will rear out of whack because there are no cats...the code for the upstream is probally causing your driveability concern

cliffyk

The front O2 sensors are about all that's left, it's just odd that both would fail at once? It could be a problem with the O2 sensor heater circuit--if they are running cold then they tell the PCM the mix is lean and the PCM makes it rich expecting the sensors to report that. When they don't it makes the mix richer...until it runs out of "rich".

stangman1976

ok I will try replacing the front o2 sensors this weekend and see if that hopefully will fix the pro. fingers crossed, thanks for getting back to me on this

stangman1976

well cliffy I am still getting these codes = 1132 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 1 / 1152 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 2. I replaced both upstream o2 sensors with genuine motorcraft parts I have mil eliminators on downstream o2's. the car ran way better the first day. I mean I could take 2nd gear to 70mph an was only at 4800 rpm's now that light is on I'm lucky to hit 55 in second at red line. big difference in performance, sound and smell. got almost 200 bucks in chasing these codes so far an I am seriously thinking bout replacing a sh*t load of other sensors now like map iac aic tps but I dont think they will correct prob either what am I missing? I need help in a big way here cliffy this blows I have been driving it so long all messed up I forgot how fast it really is, it actually brought a smile to my face again .

Bullitt2theHead

Ok before you go throwing more parts at your vehicle, check a few things.

Get a mechanical fuel pressure reading. This is going to be essential in this scenerio!

If you have access to even a basic obdII scan tool check the MAF readings and make sure they scale linearly when you rev it up.

Disconnect the pvc hose from the intake tube. Block off the opening on the intake tube. See if your car still runs like "poo".

Disconnect the vacuum hose from your EGR valve and apply vacuum to the open port at the top. See if there is any change in the way its running. It should cut off. If not, then your egr valve is stuck. And yes this can occur and not set an egr code!

May sound silly but check your air filter. If its clogged the the ****. Pull if off as well to see if theres anything inside. Simple but Ive seen it before!

But by far the most important thing is going to be to get a mechanic fuel pressure reading. If you dont have a decent fuel pressure gauge do the loan a tool from autozone. Check it at idle and going down the road (run it across the cowl and tape it to the windshield). If it goes above 45 psi at any point you are way too high man.