1nstysnake keeps breaking clutch pedals
#2
^ you seem like a d-bag.... all caps typing and a s/n "hell ya i street race"
to the OP, it sounds like your cable is adjusted too tight, and also it sounds like youre using a junk cable to begin with
go buy an OEM cable, they are the best out there
to the OP, it sounds like your cable is adjusted too tight, and also it sounds like youre using a junk cable to begin with
go buy an OEM cable, they are the best out there
#6
i do have the oem cable still ill try it out thanks. i was thinking about just changing the tko600 for a aod/aode built trans because its getting to hard to shift the car do you know anything about that?
#7
#10
Two problems I have found with after market quadrants are:
The solution to 2, is to use a mill file to make a slight radius (1/16" or so) on the edges of the adjuster's cable groove--also make sure you grease it all up when you install and periodically afterward.
The failures I've seen in adjustable cables are often caused by the adjusting rod not pivoting freely in the clutch lever's keyhole slot. This causes the unavoidable pivot motion the occur at the crimped cable to adjusting rod junction--the cable doesn't like this and fails at that point.
In one instance I found that the installer had used the jam nut on the forward end of the adjuster rod to clamp the rod into the clutch lever--the cable failed in less than 2k miles...
- They are thinner at the pivot point than the OEM plastic unit, which allows them to float about laterally on the shaft and not align properly with the cable passage in the firewall. This stresses and wears the cable as it rides on the sidewalls of the adjuster groove;
- The edges of groove in the adjuster are not radiused and thereby exacerbate the above situation;
The solution to 2, is to use a mill file to make a slight radius (1/16" or so) on the edges of the adjuster's cable groove--also make sure you grease it all up when you install and periodically afterward.
The failures I've seen in adjustable cables are often caused by the adjusting rod not pivoting freely in the clutch lever's keyhole slot. This causes the unavoidable pivot motion the occur at the crimped cable to adjusting rod junction--the cable doesn't like this and fails at that point.
In one instance I found that the installer had used the jam nut on the forward end of the adjuster rod to clamp the rod into the clutch lever--the cable failed in less than 2k miles...