AutoX / RoadRace Suspension
02-14-2010, 07:53 PM
#11
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: SF Bay.
Posts: 3,035
Thanks, Wai Wai 
I was gonna refer the Dr. to my Official Suspension Guide (in sig) and read up. I recommend you get a good understanding of all this stuff BEFORE you go dumpin money into your ride. My guide is by no means the most technically proficient thread on suspension, but has more than all the basic components to understand all the lingo that goes into it.
Jazzer
I was gonna refer the Dr. to my Official Suspension Guide (in sig) and read up. I recommend you get a good understanding of all this stuff BEFORE you go dumpin money into your ride. My guide is by no means the most technically proficient thread on suspension, but has more than all the basic components to understand all the lingo that goes into it.
Jazzer
The best thing I can recommend is more seat time after each mod, you will figure out what needs to be addressed.
02-15-2010, 01:53 PM
#13
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: SF Bay.
Posts: 3,035
it's what I learned through my own mistakes=P went coilovers on all 4 corners, lca's, torque arn, phb before my first outting, then on the next outting I swapped the torque arm, lca and phb for an IRS(that we did the bushing swap on). I was struggling to figure out what to do til the very end, couldn't enjoy myself=/
Oh and op, suspension is an addicting bug, it's also expensive, I would never recommend cheaping out on suspension components as it's whats keeping you from bouncing into the wall/tires/curb/other cars. With that said I've spent enough on suspension for a 03-04 cobra swap + whipple (maybe even ported) lols.
Oh and op, suspension is an addicting bug, it's also expensive, I would never recommend cheaping out on suspension components as it's whats keeping you from bouncing into the wall/tires/curb/other cars. With that said I've spent enough on suspension for a 03-04 cobra swap + whipple (maybe even ported) lols.
02-15-2010, 03:34 PM
#15
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: SF Bay.
Posts: 3,035
anytime, don't forget to look into tire compound and the stock brakes on the gt are pretty damn inadequate, cheap and decent upgrade is the mach1 brake kit (same as a cobra's) and a set of hps pads.
02-15-2010, 06:14 PM
#17
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Illinois
Posts: 364
that suspension thread was, by far, one of the best threads I've ever read in any forum. Tons of info and answered questions in there.
After reading that, I've decided to start in stages. My plan for the first stage is to stiffen the car up with upper and lower subframe connectors, and a ten point roll cage. Maybe even an adjustable front antiroll bar and rear adjustable sway bar.
My wife and I havent decided what the budget for the suspension will be due to my sons minimotard season thats about to start. The kid comes first, then we go play with whats left.
After reading that, I've decided to start in stages. My plan for the first stage is to stiffen the car up with upper and lower subframe connectors, and a ten point roll cage. Maybe even an adjustable front antiroll bar and rear adjustable sway bar.
My wife and I havent decided what the budget for the suspension will be due to my sons minimotard season thats about to start. The kid comes first, then we go play with whats left.
Last edited by dr.apex; 02-15-2010 at 06:19 PM.
02-15-2010, 06:43 PM
#18
Retired Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
Hold off on going with sway bars right away. They are a tuning device and should be the very LAST thing you do to address understeer/oversteer issues (gererally understeer on an SN95). Now, the adjustable aspect is good and may end up needing them anyway, but if the car is set up properly, you almost don't even need a rear bar.
Start with SFC's (roll cage will do wonders in addition to them) and go for the Griggs LCA's mentioned earlier and stop there. Then go to some "minimotard....?" classes/sessions/events...? and install a WL and TA and rear CO's when funds are back up to speed.
The next step will cost you, as you don't want to waste money doing things twice. I would go Griggs "K" and really think about how much track time you are going to do. If the answer is LOTS..... go SLA and skip right past the traditional CO's. This will pretty much force you to install a Griggs front tubular sway bar and go spherical ends on all but 3 (yes, count 'em... 3 poly joints on the ENTIRE CAR). You said noisy was OK..... and you got it
My car is set up this way and is only bad on very rough/pourus asphalt. Your average streets are fine, but instantly noticeable to any passengers along for the ride. Of course, they are soo busy holding on for dear life when I drive a corner, they quickly loose any thoughts of comfort and begin contemplating if his/her will is up to date
Jazzer
Start with SFC's (roll cage will do wonders in addition to them) and go for the Griggs LCA's mentioned earlier and stop there. Then go to some "minimotard....?" classes/sessions/events...? and install a WL and TA and rear CO's when funds are back up to speed.
The next step will cost you, as you don't want to waste money doing things twice. I would go Griggs "K" and really think about how much track time you are going to do. If the answer is LOTS..... go SLA and skip right past the traditional CO's. This will pretty much force you to install a Griggs front tubular sway bar and go spherical ends on all but 3 (yes, count 'em... 3 poly joints on the ENTIRE CAR). You said noisy was OK..... and you got it
My car is set up this way and is only bad on very rough/pourus asphalt. Your average streets are fine, but instantly noticeable to any passengers along for the ride. Of course, they are soo busy holding on for dear life when I drive a corner, they quickly loose any thoughts of comfort and begin contemplating if his/her will is up to date
Jazzer
02-15-2010, 07:04 PM
#19
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Illinois
Posts: 364
Hold off on going with sway bars right away. They are a tuning device and should be the very LAST thing you do to address understeer/oversteer issues (gererally understeer on an SN95). Now, the adjustable aspect is good and may end up needing them anyway, but if the car is set up properly, you almost don't even need a rear bar.
Start with SFC's (roll cage will do wonders in addition to them) and go for the Griggs LCA's mentioned earlier and stop there. Then go to some "minimotard....?" classes/sessions/events...? and install a WL and TA and rear CO's when funds are back up to speed.
The next step will cost you, as you don't want to waste money doing things twice. I would go Griggs "K" and really think about how much track time you are going to do. If the answer is LOTS..... go SLA and skip right past the traditional CO's. This will pretty much force you to install a Griggs front tubular sway bar and go spherical ends on all but 3 (yes, count 'em... 3 poly joints on the ENTIRE CAR). You said noisy was OK..... and you got it
My car is set up this way and is only bad on very rough/pourus asphalt. Your average streets are fine, but instantly noticeable to any passengers along for the ride. Of course, they are soo busy holding on for dear life when I drive a corner, they quickly loose any thoughts of comfort and begin contemplating if his/her will is up to date
Jazzer
Start with SFC's (roll cage will do wonders in addition to them) and go for the Griggs LCA's mentioned earlier and stop there. Then go to some "minimotard....?" classes/sessions/events...? and install a WL and TA and rear CO's when funds are back up to speed.
The next step will cost you, as you don't want to waste money doing things twice. I would go Griggs "K" and really think about how much track time you are going to do. If the answer is LOTS..... go SLA and skip right past the traditional CO's. This will pretty much force you to install a Griggs front tubular sway bar and go spherical ends on all but 3 (yes, count 'em... 3 poly joints on the ENTIRE CAR). You said noisy was OK..... and you got it
My car is set up this way and is only bad on very rough/pourus asphalt. Your average streets are fine, but instantly noticeable to any passengers along for the ride. Of course, they are soo busy holding on for dear life when I drive a corner, they quickly loose any thoughts of comfort and begin contemplating if his/her will is up to date
Jazzer
My wife just made a comment to me about how funny the car would look with a ten point roll cage in it due to its being a vert. Im thinking that if we are making it into a track car, we pretty much need the ten point spcifically due to it being a vert. Am I on base, or can we get away with a 6 or 8 point?