Rear sway bar
#1
Rear sway bar
I am installing UPR pro UCAs and LCAs adjustable with spherical bushings on all ends. The sales person I ordered the parts from told me and I quote
"May i add that if you get the pro series uppers and lowers and the spherical bushing you will have no need for a sway bar. Since everything will be solid there will be no deflection, and you would be able to get rid of the extra weight of the sway bar"
I just want to get some opinions on this, I will be driving the car on weekends etc, but I will also be drag racing on a consistent basis.
"May i add that if you get the pro series uppers and lowers and the spherical bushing you will have no need for a sway bar. Since everything will be solid there will be no deflection, and you would be able to get rid of the extra weight of the sway bar"
I just want to get some opinions on this, I will be driving the car on weekends etc, but I will also be drag racing on a consistent basis.
#2
I am installing UPR pro UCAs and LCAs adjustable with spherical bushings on all ends. The sales person I ordered the parts from told me and I quote
"May i add that if you get the pro series uppers and lowers and the spherical bushing you will have no need for a sway bar. Since everything will be solid there will be no deflection, and you would be able to get rid of the extra weight of the sway bar"
I just want to get some opinions on this, I will be driving the car on weekends etc, but I will also be drag racing on a consistent basis.
"May i add that if you get the pro series uppers and lowers and the spherical bushing you will have no need for a sway bar. Since everything will be solid there will be no deflection, and you would be able to get rid of the extra weight of the sway bar"
I just want to get some opinions on this, I will be driving the car on weekends etc, but I will also be drag racing on a consistent basis.
The purpose of an anti-sway bad isn't to reduce deflection, but to reduce body roll when the vehicle is going through turns, which translates into better, more responsive handling and longer tire life too. When the body of a vehicle leans/rolls in turns, this tends to accelerate tire shoulder wear, as the tire is no longer planted flat on the road but is rolling over onto the shoulder and even onto the sidewall during hard cornering.
Further, if you reside in a state that has annual vehicle safety inspections, removing an original equipment anti-sway bar will automatically fail the inspection, as it is safety equipment, (a predictable handling vehicle is much safer to drive than one that is not, which it wont be without its original anti-sway bar).
This advice is coming from someone who has been in the automotive repair industry for 25 years, is a state licensed safety inspector and has spent many years racing in the Sports Car Club of America. But don't take it just from me, Google- Anti-sway bar and see for yourself.
Personally, I don't think very much of a company that would be giving you such erroneous and potentially dangerous advice. I'd recommend you take your business elsewhere.
I hope this has been of help.
#3
I would agree with Roger on this one
Depending on mods, the SN95 will generally handle better with a heavier rear bar, much less completely removed.
As for going spherical on ALL ends, of this I am not such a fan. Approx. 2 weeks ago a bunch of us got into a discussion in ***THIS*** thread and more relative to the question here is ***THIS*** thread. Read closely the last few posts of the second link here reguarding 100% spherical ends.
The all spherical UCA seems to have more downside than up on a street car. For JUST 1/4 mile track use, it seemed to be fine.
Jazzer
Depending on mods, the SN95 will generally handle better with a heavier rear bar, much less completely removed.
As for going spherical on ALL ends, of this I am not such a fan. Approx. 2 weeks ago a bunch of us got into a discussion in ***THIS*** thread and more relative to the question here is ***THIS*** thread. Read closely the last few posts of the second link here reguarding 100% spherical ends.
The all spherical UCA seems to have more downside than up on a street car. For JUST 1/4 mile track use, it seemed to be fine.
Jazzer
#4
I would agree with Roger on this one
Depending on mods, the SN95 will generally handle better with a heavier rear bar, much less completely removed.
As for going spherical on ALL ends, of this I am not such a fan. Approx. 2 weeks ago a bunch of us got into a discussion in ***THIS*** thread and more relative to the question here is ***THIS*** thread. Read closely the last few posts of the second link here reguarding 100% spherical ends.
The all spherical UCA seems to have more downside than up on a street car. For JUST 1/4 mile track use, it seemed to be fine.
Jazzer
Depending on mods, the SN95 will generally handle better with a heavier rear bar, much less completely removed.
As for going spherical on ALL ends, of this I am not such a fan. Approx. 2 weeks ago a bunch of us got into a discussion in ***THIS*** thread and more relative to the question here is ***THIS*** thread. Read closely the last few posts of the second link here reguarding 100% spherical ends.
The all spherical UCA seems to have more downside than up on a street car. For JUST 1/4 mile track use, it seemed to be fine.
Jazzer
#5
I would recommend a SINGLE spherical on the UCA. This is the one that would be on the UPR Pro Series ones and comes on the body side. The extra spherical bearing that is sold separately, I would not recommend on a DD. If you read all the details on that second link above, it would appear that the dual spherical bearings on UCA's seem to allow some funky movement on the extreme end of articulation. The single spherical bearing is going to be enough to allow sufficient movement if in combonation with a spherical LCA. The LCA's, however, can be dual spherical with no issues other than an increase in NVH.
Jazzer
Jazzer
#7
The Griggs world challenge rear kit deletes the sway bar, and they are one of the top suspension companies for the stang. So, although it sounds like a bad idea it might be worth looking into a bit deeper. Hell, for a while the v6 came without a rear bar to increase understeer.
#8
^ 'tis true, but takes quite the system to allow its removal and still handle well. If I went heavier rear CO's, I could do it, but the ride quality and handling would suck on the city streets.
Jazzer
Jazzer
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09-16-2015 07:53 PM