We have an 03 GT with a brand new built shortblock and an HP twin turbo kit. Car had same TT kit on the stock bottom end. Car is put back togethr but won't start. It turns over buts it's like the coil packs aren't getting any spark. Any suggestiosn or advice?

 

Car has no spark whatsoever

 

Check all fuses, connectors, and general wiring two or three times. If you have an automotive oscilloscope (or any scope with appropriate leads) examine the primary signal at the COPS to verify it's there (or not).

Pull some spark plugs and see if they're wet (with gasoline) after cranking it a bit--if not then you've got a fuel problem.

Take off the TT setup and see if it will run n/a and as close to stock as you can make it.

Did you change the PCM or instrument cluster? The PATS expects the instrument cluster and the PCM to have matched security codes (they are married at the factory), if they are not the same the car will not start. A Ford dealer can marry an unmatched pair, if they have someone that understands IDS enough to do it--bring your title...

 

Off topic a little bit but, all I can say is "DAMN"!!! Ever since I have been on this forum, Cliffy has been THE MAN!! Always coming up with stuff to help out another mustang enthusiasts!! Doesn't matter what the topic is, he always finds some way to help diagnose the problem or just fix the problem outright!! Wish I had that much knowledge..

 

I already did eveything cliffy said. Still nothing, there is more too it. May take some time to figure out.

 

Suck, squeeze, bang, blow is how a 4-stroke/cycle engine runs and it only needs 3 things to do that--a fuel mixture to be suck in, compression to squeeze the fuel, and a source of ignition to light off the bang. The blow part just tags along as part of the process...

You said in an earlier post that there was no spark, how did you determine this--I'm not doubting your observation, just curious.

With the key on check the red wire at any of the COPs--there should be full battery voltage at the red wire

If there is battery voltage at the COP's red wire then there's something wrong with the crankshaft position sensor, and/or the PCM.

If not then check fuse 1.26 (30A in the battery box).

If the fuse is OK and there is still no voltage at the COP's red wire then check fuse 2.34 (20A in the central box under the dash). If that fuse is OK then the only thing left between fuse 1.26 and the red wire is the PCM Power Relay in CCRM (Constant Control Relay Module) and the wiring of course.

 

Check fuel lines for pressure and make sure the fuel pump turns on when you turn the key to 'run'.

No matter the setup, the car should start--there is no boost available, and mostly, not necessary for ignition.

If fuel system checks good move on to electrical.

Process of elimination time.

Check.

 

Man that's cool.

 

I didn't make it up, don't know who did it's been around for years.

Here's my favourite T-shirt...

 

Old description on how a jet engine works...