Rotors
#1
Rotors
Who out there has cross drilled rotors? Is your braking performance improved? Where did you get them? Would anyone trust the ones off of eBay? I am looking to getting some, but I didn't want to but the cheapos. I don't want a whole new kit, just the rotors, something I can replace myself.
#2
RE: Rotors
I don't have them, but I also would not trust the ones off e-bay. There are a lot of sites that have just the rotors that you can buy. While you are changing your rotors I suggest that you also get better brake pads and thow them on at the same time. With the combo of new rotors and pads you should see a good increase in performance.
#3
RE: Rotors
Yeah, I am going to replace the pads also. The rear look like they need it, and my front pads were replaced when I bought the car about 7K miles ago. They must have put on the cheapest brand available because the brake pust is out of control.
#4
RE: Rotors
I wouldnt use drilled rotors for street applications. Just about any Hi-po brake company will tell you that drilling weakens brake integrity and is not for street useage. Slotted rotors still vent the disk and allow for lower brake temperatures while keeping your brakes strong. Also make sure the brake pads you get are in the correct heat range for your application.
Powerslot Rotors would be a good company to look into.
Powerslot Rotors would be a good company to look into.
#5
RE: Rotors
ORIGINAL: 94Cbra
I wouldnt use drilled rotors for street applications. Just about any Hi-po brake company will tell you that drilling weakens brake integrity and is not for street useage. Slotted rotors still vent the disk and allow for lower brake temperatures while keeping your brakes strong. Also make sure the brake pads you get are in the correct heat range for your application.
Powerslot Rotors would be a good company to look into.
I wouldnt use drilled rotors for street applications. Just about any Hi-po brake company will tell you that drilling weakens brake integrity and is not for street useage. Slotted rotors still vent the disk and allow for lower brake temperatures while keeping your brakes strong. Also make sure the brake pads you get are in the correct heat range for your application.
Powerslot Rotors would be a good company to look into.
www.brothersperformance.com has both, but you can find them for cheaper if you look.
#6
RE: Rotors
ORIGINAL: 94Cbra
I wouldnt use drilled rotors for street applications. Just about any Hi-po brake company will tell you that drilling weakens brake integrity and is not for street useage. Slotted rotors still vent the disk and allow for lower brake temperatures while keeping your brakes strong. Also make sure the brake pads you get are in the correct heat range for your application.
Powerslot Rotors would be a good company to look into.
I wouldnt use drilled rotors for street applications. Just about any Hi-po brake company will tell you that drilling weakens brake integrity and is not for street useage. Slotted rotors still vent the disk and allow for lower brake temperatures while keeping your brakes strong. Also make sure the brake pads you get are in the correct heat range for your application.
Powerslot Rotors would be a good company to look into.
Took the words out of my mouth. Most cross drilled rotors aren't engineered very well and will fail fairly early with stress cracks between the holes. Do NOT buy any generic rotors off of ebay. They will go out of round and cause you serious drivability/safety issues down the road - not to mention they get damn annoying when they practically shake the steering wheel out of your hand. Go with a good slotted rotor, like the powerslots mentioned above. Decent price, and good quality. If you want to go the extra step, if you only have a GT or V6 look into the cobra/bullit/mach1 2 pot caliper upgrade with bigger rotors. This will help you get that much more stopping power.
#7
RE: Rotors
ORIGINAL: Squid699
Took the words out of my mouth. Most cross drilled rotors aren't engineered very well and will fail fairly early with stress cracks between the holes. Do NOT buy any generic rotors off of ebay. They will go out of round and cause you serious drivability/safety issues down the road - not to mention they get damn annoying when they practically shake the steering wheel out of your hand. Go with a good slotted rotor, like the powerslots mentioned above. Decent price, and good quality. If you want to go the extra step, if you only have a GT or V6 look into the cobra/bullit/mach1 2 pot caliper upgrade with bigger rotors. This will help you get that much more stopping power.
ORIGINAL: 94Cbra
I wouldnt use drilled rotors for street applications. Just about any Hi-po brake company will tell you that drilling weakens brake integrity and is not for street useage. Slotted rotors still vent the disk and allow for lower brake temperatures while keeping your brakes strong. Also make sure the brake pads you get are in the correct heat range for your application.
Powerslot Rotors would be a good company to look into.
I wouldnt use drilled rotors for street applications. Just about any Hi-po brake company will tell you that drilling weakens brake integrity and is not for street useage. Slotted rotors still vent the disk and allow for lower brake temperatures while keeping your brakes strong. Also make sure the brake pads you get are in the correct heat range for your application.
Powerslot Rotors would be a good company to look into.
Took the words out of my mouth. Most cross drilled rotors aren't engineered very well and will fail fairly early with stress cracks between the holes. Do NOT buy any generic rotors off of ebay. They will go out of round and cause you serious drivability/safety issues down the road - not to mention they get damn annoying when they practically shake the steering wheel out of your hand. Go with a good slotted rotor, like the powerslots mentioned above. Decent price, and good quality. If you want to go the extra step, if you only have a GT or V6 look into the cobra/bullit/mach1 2 pot caliper upgrade with bigger rotors. This will help you get that much more stopping power.
#8
RE: Rotors
If you do your reasearch on this subject (not directing this at anyone or inplying anything about anyone) you will also find out that the rotors that are crossdrilled that failed are older rotors and with the new stronger materials and how they crossdrill them now, they will not crack (I am not saying that they will never crack). The slotting does cause a razor effect which is good because it keeps the wear on your pads even
Here this is from Baer's website:
What does slotting do?
Slotting increases the bite of the pads and helps the car to decelerate more rapidly. The process doesn´t involve removing as much metal as cross drilling, so it doesn´t result in as great a weight saving. Slotting, however, is even more effective than cross drilling in combating the problem known as "out gassing". This occurs when, at very high braking temperatures, the bonding agents used in some brake pads produce a gas. Under extreme conditions, this gas can create a pneumatic cushion between pad and rotor, giving a driver a normal pedal feel but reducing the amount of friction being generated. The slots pump away this gas and restore full contact. The "micro-shaving" effect of the slots also serves to de-glaze the pads (this is why the edges of the slots on EradiSpeed rotors are not chamfered or "radiused"). It also tends to even out the wear across the brake pad faces, increasing the effective contact area. This can extend rotor life.
Here this is from Baer's website:
What does slotting do?
Slotting increases the bite of the pads and helps the car to decelerate more rapidly. The process doesn´t involve removing as much metal as cross drilling, so it doesn´t result in as great a weight saving. Slotting, however, is even more effective than cross drilling in combating the problem known as "out gassing". This occurs when, at very high braking temperatures, the bonding agents used in some brake pads produce a gas. Under extreme conditions, this gas can create a pneumatic cushion between pad and rotor, giving a driver a normal pedal feel but reducing the amount of friction being generated. The slots pump away this gas and restore full contact. The "micro-shaving" effect of the slots also serves to de-glaze the pads (this is why the edges of the slots on EradiSpeed rotors are not chamfered or "radiused"). It also tends to even out the wear across the brake pad faces, increasing the effective contact area. This can extend rotor life.
#9
RE: Rotors
Slotting cuts way down on brake dust and also helps eliminate some heat. Drilled rotors are strictly a heat thing needed in racing to keep the brakes cooler and to break down gases under hard braking. I went with the slotted and "dimpled" (not drilled through holes) EBC rotors and green snot (so to speak) pads. I only added the rotors to the front with pads and new EBC pads only on the back with the stock rear rotors. EBC pads are Kelvar and leave virtually no dust whatsoever. Pep Boys now carries EBC brand right on the shelf if you have one of their stores near you and you'd like to take a look at the goods before buying. Steeda (as well as Hawk) sell some good street performance pads that you do not have to change rotors to use. One downside of slotted and/or drilled rotors is they basically can not be "turned" to true up if you should need new pads again down the road. Conventional flat rotors can all be turned at least once. Check out this site for more info: http://www.ebcbrakes.com/Automotive.html