Removing COP's
05-13-2010, 11:52 AM
#1
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Removing COP's
I went to remove a COP yesterday but didn't make it too far. Put a ratchet on the bolt that holds it on and it just spins. Not easily, but it's definitely not un threading. Is there a trick to it? Or is it simply stripped? Common issue here?
05-13-2010, 01:33 PM
#4
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It's common because people seem ti think they are tightening lug nuts when they install the COPs.
Pull up on the COP as you are turning the mounting screw, the brass barrel insert should pull out, Grab the insert with pliers and remove the screw, then use high-temp expoy (JB Weld or the like) to "glue" the barrel insert back into the post on the intake manifold.
Let it cure overnight and then don't over do it when you reinstall the COP.
Pull up on the COP as you are turning the mounting screw, the brass barrel insert should pull out, Grab the insert with pliers and remove the screw, then use high-temp expoy (JB Weld or the like) to "glue" the barrel insert back into the post on the intake manifold.
Let it cure overnight and then don't over do it when you reinstall the COP.
05-13-2010, 02:13 PM
#5
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It's common because people seem ti think they are tightening lug nuts when they install the COPs.
Pull up on the COP as you are turning the mounting screw, the brass barrel insert should pull out, Grab the insert with pliers and remove the screw, then use high-temp expoy (JB Weld or the like) to "glue" the barrel insert back into the post on the intake manifold.
Let it cure overnight and then don't over do it when you reinstall the COP.
Pull up on the COP as you are turning the mounting screw, the brass barrel insert should pull out, Grab the insert with pliers and remove the screw, then use high-temp expoy (JB Weld or the like) to "glue" the barrel insert back into the post on the intake manifold.
Let it cure overnight and then don't over do it when you reinstall the COP.
I'm noticing a vast difference in some COP prices even though based on the "COP information" thread they are all essentially the same COP. For instance it looks like they want $93 bucks a COP(WOW) on fordparts.com. However you can grab a set for 100 on ebay. Whats the deal? If the COP information thread is true there's no difference aside from price and brand printing. I'm wanting to replace all my spark plugs and COPs this weekend to see if I can clear this ping up. Sounds like cylinder 4 and or 5 is the culprit but who knows what else could use a change. Where should I buy COPS from?
Last edited by Hangwire; 05-13-2010 at 02:17 PM.
05-13-2010, 02:36 PM
#6
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+1 Youl notice even though you torque then down hard that the cop unit itself isn't tightening down any further. It doesn't need to be tight at all, in fact its relatively loose at all times. The boot does the job by itself, no need for a screw to be real tight.
I'm noticing a vast difference in some COP prices even though based on the "COP information" thread they are all essentially the same COP. For instance it looks like they want $80 bucks a COP on fordparts.com. However you can grab a set for 100 on ebay. Whats the deal? If the COP information thread is true there's no difference aside from price and brand printing. I'm wanting to replace all my spark plugs and COPs this weekend to see if I can clear this ping up. Sounds like cylinder 4 and or 5 is the culprit but who knows what else could use a change. Where should I buy COPS from?
I'm noticing a vast difference in some COP prices even though based on the "COP information" thread they are all essentially the same COP. For instance it looks like they want $80 bucks a COP on fordparts.com. However you can grab a set for 100 on ebay. Whats the deal? If the COP information thread is true there's no difference aside from price and brand printing. I'm wanting to replace all my spark plugs and COPs this weekend to see if I can clear this ping up. Sounds like cylinder 4 and or 5 is the culprit but who knows what else could use a change. Where should I buy COPS from?
The stock COPs are very well constructed, and have a 40kV to 50kV output potential (keep in mind that in any n/a application only 18kV to maybe 25kV is needed to ionise the plug gap, and only 6kV to 10kV is needed to maintain the spark).
The after market COPs claiming higher output potential use fewer turns of heavier wire in the COP's primary winding. This draws a bit more current, and causes the COP's core to saturate faster and with a higher magnetic field. When this higher field collapses there is a higher potential voltage available, 60kV to 70kV seem to be the limit of the OEM COP design.
The plug's requirements don't change however so this additional energy is unused and dissipates as heat build-up in the COP--explaining the shorter service life and heat related misfires observed with older after market COPs. I had a set of Granatelli's in which after 20k miles or so 3 of them died in a span of as many weeks.
The only COPs that are not just modified versions of the OEM units are the WeaponX COPs. They are not cheap (I was fortunate to have a set provided as partial payment for a job) however I am very impressed with their quality and performance.
I have not been a strong supporter of after market COPs, however these puppies are different. The exhaust tone on heavy acceleration is more staccato, and there is a noticeable torque improvement in the upper-mid and higher RPMs--I even picked up 0.5 mpg or so.
If I were running f/i or a solidly "built" high compression engine I would definitely get a set of the WeaponX COPs...
05-13-2010, 06:09 PM
#8
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You can speed the process up quite a bit by using a battery powered drill/screwdriver to spin the screw--basically you are using the insert as a slow cutting burr to cut it's own way out of the post on the manifold...
05-13-2010, 07:00 PM
#9
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Just keep spinning the screw and pulling upward, eventually the barrel insert will pull out.
You can speed the process up quite a bit by using a battery powered drill/screwdriver to spin the screw--basically you are using the insert as a slow cutting burr to cut it's own way out of the post on the manifold...
You can speed the process up quite a bit by using a battery powered drill/screwdriver to spin the screw--basically you are using the insert as a slow cutting burr to cut it's own way out of the post on the manifold...
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