I have a 2000 GT with a tick in the bottom end, has been getting worse. I'm looking at rebuilding the motor since it is thought to a crack somewhere in the bottom end rotating assembly. I want to do the rebuild right, so that I don't wish I did something different later. I was looking at kits that bore to 5.0 and are stoked. Right now I want to build it so that later I can go wild with add-ons, but don't have the money to do so at the moment. Any suggestions as well as help on piston design (XXcc dished?). Any help will be great, thanks.

 

Hey man I spun a crank bearing a while back and went through just what you are now ha.. I even thought about boring it out! But after a lot of time on the forums I decided not to. It.. or I think it is not worth the cost for the little gain you get from it.

I guess first figure out what kinda power you want later down the road. I don't plan on going over 500hp (with this engine ha) so I got my crank re-grinned and reused it. Then I bought a set of forged pistons and rods that will take 500hp (getting any higher rated would be a waste ya know). Also since I reused my crank and had it re-grinned, I needed to get oversized crank bearings. This took care of my bottom end. I also sent my heads out and had them ported and polished since I did not wanna take my engine apart any time soon. Just get it all over with now ha. I also got long tube headers, and a new clutch.

I decided not to get my pistons dished because the cam I am going to purchase does not require dished pistons. That is up to you. I called and talked to a ton of shops and people just to get as much information as possible!

If I can help you out with anything just let me know. Also, before I took my engine out I had only done basic maintenance to my car like oil change, brakes, etc.. If you are going to do this yourself, you should buy the Hanes manual! I used that to do everything! It is amazing ha

Have fun man! Its a blast, but will suck too haha

 

Also.. the amount of money you think you are going to spend, take that amount and double it, if not triple it ha. Thats what happen in my case.. I just went purchase happy since the engine was out, I just wanted to get everything installed while it was easy

 

I too was looking at headers and a clutch while im at it. I've pulled a engine out of the jeep I used to have, and replaced it with a re-manufactured one from autozone, something I would never do again. It didn't last long at all and I just sold the thing for money to get my mustang, unfortunately to end up with more engine problems.... haha Around about how much did it cost? I have been considering going with a completely rebuild engine from MMR with a new block for 2799, but I don't want to end up with the problem I had with my jeep.

 

I spent about $3,200 on the engine.. that includes the forged pistons and rods, labor for having a shop clean my block and assemble/balance the short block. MMR ported and polished my heads and I needed to buy gaskets.

2799 sounds good for a new engine.. is it a complete engine or just a short block? Is it forged? What kinda power will it take? How much is shipping?

MMR was great when they took care of my heads so im sure a engine from them will be wayyy better then one from autozone ha

 

I know trick flow is better then the stock heads. Is it worth it to spend the extra money for the trick flow or just get my stock heads ported. I need some advise. THanks

 

I wouldnt even know.. I had mine ported and they are fine. I dunno how they would be better? More power? Let me know though

 

For 2499 here is what MMR offers for a cobra block, although I would have to get new heads right?


MMR 4.6 Street Mod 600 (up to 600 RWHP) 2V, 3V or 4V
The perfect replacement for your forced induction or NOS GT


*Brand New Cast Iron 2004 Cobra Block, torque plate bored and honed
*New Ford Racing Cast Iron Crankshaft rated up to 600HP (8 bolt or 6 bolt)
*New 4340 5.933 MMR (Modular Mustang Racing) I-beam Rods, these rods areshotpeened, magnafluxed and weight matched w/ ARP Hardware
*New Forged Manley lightweight pistons
*Speed Pro file fit rings (precision file fit to your application,
nitrous, blower, turbo or N/A)
* Tri-metal Rod and Main bearings
*Complete Pro Assembly and Balancing for the smoothest, highest revving
shortblock available, Pre-Lubricated with Royal Purple Assembly Lube and spin tested. Lastly 3 technicians sign off on your new engine prior to packaging and crating.

or for $2899
MMR 4.6 Street Mod 900 (up to 900 RWHP) 2V, 3V or 4V

"The Aluminator Shortblock Killer"

This MMR shortblock uses stronger parts and handcrafted precision, not assembly line assembly techniques like the Aluminator ford blocks


*Brand New Cast Iron 2004 Cobra Block, torque plate bored and honed

*New 4340 Forged 3.543 stroke Cobra Crankshaft w/micro polished journals at no extra charge

*New 4340 5.933 MMR 900HP H-beam Rods w/ARP rod bolts ( These rods are shotpeened, magnafluxed and weight matched to bring you the finest H-beam rod available for your 4.6)

*New Forged Manley pistons (High or low compression)

*Speed Pro file fit rings (precision file fit to your application, nitrous, blower, turbo or N/A)

* Clevite tri-metal Rod and ACL Performance Main bearings

*Complete Pro Assembly and Balancing for the smoothest, highest revving shortblock available, Pre-Lubricated with Royal Purple Assembly Lube and spin tested. Lastly 3 technicians sign off on your new engine prior to packaging and crating.

 

I dont think that you would have to get new heads because they say for 2v,3v, or 4v. But I would call them and ask. They would know for sure what you would need. But i dont think you would need new ones.

How much power do you want? More then 600? If not more then 600 then I would buy the Street Mod 600.

Now I look back at it I kinda wish I went this route, instead of rebuilding my engine. But the money I save buy rebuilding i used to port my heads and buy extra things

 

I called and I wont have to get new heads. I also found a 4.6 aluminator from ford racing which is the same as the street mod 600 except an aluminum cobra block. With shipping included its 400 more, so I think I mights stay with cast iron. Also, I saw you have pypes LT headers and h-pipe. I was planning on going with the same when I put the engine back in, how you like them?