smitty2919

The new revised 3.2 per YOUR explanations after searching around and ATF synthetic again by searching and seeing your suggestion lol.

I have played around withthe IAC mod and am familiar with it but at the time at the track did not have it in and had a 75mm tb/plenum (don't know how much that had to do with it).

The other description of Dashpot Decay Rate, Dashpot Sensitivity Gain, and the Dashpot RPM vs lbs/min tables are jibberish to me lol

I have both a Predator and a Xcal2...if I can get those values from those. In short simple terms what are the Dashpot Decay rate etc telling me? I don't want to have you give a whole writeup...a link would be fine if you had one I'll read about them on my own time lol

cliffyk

Neither the Predator or XCal will get you to those settings.

The PCM uses the IAC not just to control idle speed, but also to behave as a mechanical diaphragm dashpot did on carburetors to prevent the throttle valve from slamming shut when you released the pedal. In the old days this was done mostly to prevent the engine from stalling, these days the IAC under PCM control does that and controls the air flow through the TB at closed throttle to aid in meeting emission requirements.

The setting I referred to tel the PCM how much and how fast to control the IAC airflow during deceleration and when the throttle is closed rapidly--like between shifts. It is a virtual dashpot function.

smitty2919

Well then I will try the IAC mod, and do some WOT pulls see if they helps at all. I have some gasket material already so it's worth a shot.

Having the trans not want to shift into 3rd easy ONLY at the track is not worth it to me to rebuild it...I drag the car MAYBE twice a month lol...basically whenever someone askes me to go. If it does it while DD THEN I'll look into it.

Thanks Cliff

cliffyk

It's a lot easier to use a 1/2" copper pipe cap. Drill a hole in it (I have found 19/64"--or use a 9/32" and wiggle it around a bit--to be a good starting point), then stick it into the IAC feed tube. The caps are cheap enough so make up a bunch of them with different size holes, you don't even need any tools to swap 'em out--except maybe a screwdriver or stick to push it out of the tube...

smitty2919

lol "wiggle it around a bit"...such precision Cliff

like this? or this?

Sounds good, I pass a Homedepot on my way home from work....looks like I have something to tinker with tonight.

cliffyk

If you have the bits make a set of 6 from 9/32" (no wiggling) to 7/16" in 1/32" increments to zero in on things--then file or re-drill to fine tune. I have found that 1/64" does matter and settled in on 0.310" (a tiny bit less than 5/16") for the insert I machined.



I run that and dashpot mods in the tune...

Unsullied_Spy

I changed the tranny fluid approx. 130 miles ago with Valvoline Dex/Merc non-synthetic. Don't recall exactly how much is in there but I'm thinking of draining it soon and refilling it. Last year about this time I fell asleep at the wheel and ended up in a small swamp, so when I drained the tranny the fluid that was in there was totally shot. I was going to run this fluid for a brief while and drain it to make sure that I got all the crap out of it. I guess I should go pick up 3L of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF and give it another go, certainly can't hurt since I'm replacing the fluid again anyway.

As for the clutch itself, I have the Maximum Motorsports dual hook aluminum clutch quadrant with an adjustable clutch cable and the firewall adjuster so it's probably not flexing at all. I'm not being real aggressive with it, still on shakedown after the accident and trying to take it easy on my new clutch so it can properly break in.

smitty2919

Well I don't know if the stock adjuster bending is even a valid problem. I have the stock one still and I have the "3rd gear wall" problem so it was worth a shot to bring up.

I just did the IAC mod with the copper cap....deff notice the rpm drop but haven't done a WOT pull through 3rd to see if having the rpm drop quicker helps getting into 3rd.

wanttogofast

i work for ford and i just did my trans. i rebuilt 1,2 and 3 and had i been a customer it would have cost me $2700. the kit to rebuilt was $900 by it self. it was not to hard a little time some diagrams and a lot of patience and i got it done. but had i not been working for ford i would have went out and bought a T-5 and tossed that in.

mestit3

2700!? I may be needing this done... I'm pretty sure you can buy a whole rebuilt 3650 for 900-1000?