Changing plugs
10-11-2010, 03:19 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: CT
Posts: 420
Changing plugs
Changing plugs on an 03 GT with 54K on it. It was just purchased a month ago and I am not sure if the plugs were ever changed. I am guessing it has stock plugs. The first one I tried to remove felt like it would not give so I backed off afraid I might snap it. The engine was cold as it was sitting overnight. Is it best to let it run for a few minutes before trying to remove the plugs? I haven't done this in a few years and I can't remember what I did last time.
10-11-2010, 03:55 PM
#3
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 394
i would let it warm up and then kill it and spray some wd40 in each hole then let it cool down. Then try again and if they still dont want to come loose warm it up again spray some more wd40 and run it a little more to soak it in then try again.
10-11-2010, 05:49 PM
#4
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
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Also, FWIW the recommended change interval for the plugs is 100k miles.
Here's the maintenance schedule from the '03 service manual...
10-11-2010, 07:25 PM
#5
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: CT
Posts: 420
Thanks. I will try that. I saw that the maintenance schedule says 100K but I also read that if you leave plugs in that long, there is a possibility that they can become seized in the head and then you have all kinds of problems. I want to at least take out the ones I have and apply anti-seize to the threads, but I figure as long as I have them out, I should replace them.
10-11-2010, 08:24 PM
#6
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
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The seating surface of tapered seat plugs will take a real "set" after time has passed, it is likely that which you need to "break" when removing the plugs--not seized up threads. Engineers refer to this as "stiction".
A low torque impact wrench (like a 3/8" drive unit), set to a lowish torque is the best way to break them free--or a solid 1/2" breaker bar and as short an extension as possible, to minimise "twist up" of the wrench when breaking the stiction...
A low torque impact wrench (like a 3/8" drive unit), set to a lowish torque is the best way to break them free--or a solid 1/2" breaker bar and as short an extension as possible, to minimise "twist up" of the wrench when breaking the stiction...
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